Straight Razor from Spyderco

[sal]

Well we are moving forward. I've been communicating with Doc and my plan is to drive him to create a "how to" manual which spyderco will publish, written by Doc.

I've also begun communication with a quality razor maker that is interested in making our design under our brand.

So anything you can think of that Doc needs to put into the manual, share it with Doc here. I'd like to see some of the information he's presented here, sizes, fractions,et.

Any features that you can think of that you would like to see in a Spyderco "Straight", also let me know. If this goes well, I would like to make more than one model.

sal

[Mushroom]

Sal, that is very cool to hear that you will be working with Doc to create a manual! Also, Congrats Doc Dan!

I don’t shave with a straight razor but I’m looking forward to buying one from Spyderco anyway. I’ve been following this thread and just knowing the story of how the Spyderco straight razor came to be makes it worth purchasing one to me. It will also be a good excuse to learn how to shave with a straight razor!

Looking forward to seeing this one come to life.

[vandelay]

Any features that you can think of that you would like to see in a Spyderco "Straight", also let me know. If this goes well, I would like to make more than one model.

sal

I'd like it to use screws rather than rivets on the pivot. I'd like to be able to take it apart in case it ever rusts or the pivot gets too loose.

I'd also appreciate scales that are sturdy, like micarta or G10. I have one with flimsy plastic scales and the flex while stropping is irritating.

[Doc Dan]

This razor taught me a thing or two. My other razors are full flat ground as is this one. However, they use vertical stabilizers at the back of the blade/front of the tang. This one uses a horizontal stabilizer (the blade is slightly thicker at one point (very slight) aka belly. What this does is keeps the blade from flexing and it gives a comfortable, confidence inspiring shave.


Looking end on, you can see A and B how the blade widens a bit.

I just oiled the blade and had not wiped it down, so sorry for the oily mess.

[Doc Dan]

I'm looking forward to this project. We need the good folks of Spyderville to support it.

[Cl1ff]

I’m still super interested in this!

[jpm2]

Here's a couple of my favorite razors.
One is new, one is about 150 years old.
One has a straight edge, one curved.
The one thing they have in common, both are capable of delivering close smooth shaves.

Glad to hear this project is moving forward. I hope Spyderco makes both these styles.

[vandelay]

I decided to try actually sharpening my razor on a stone tonight. I thought the blade looked a little warped when I got it, but I wasn't aware of how warped it really was until I tried to grind it on my stones. Look how might it took off the right side there. I just put it through 600, 1200 and 8000 grit stones, then I stropped it on green then red compound. It feels considerably sharper than it came from the factory. I'll try this out a few times then give the science of sharp method a try to compare.

[Doc Dan]

That happens, sometimes. That's why I only buy from places that check the knives completely before I buy them. Dovo has had trouble with warped blades these last number of years, though they make a good razor if it is a good blade. One thing is to lay the blade on a flat surface, put pressure on the blade on one end to hold it down and then put pressure on the other to see if it moves. then, switch ends. Once that is done, flip it over and check the other side. A tiny bit off is okay. That can be fixed, apparently. A lot of warp isn't okay. I'm just going by what people more expert than myself say.

[vandelay]

Thankfully it wasn't severely warped to the point where I couldn't correct it on a stone. I'll definitely put a little more care in the future if I want to get another razor though.

The whole process made me thankful I have DMT plates. If I was still using my old water stones, having to painstakingly ensure they were flat, this would have been a nightmare.

[jpm2]

Vandelay, it looks like your razor has hone wear on the stabilizer. If that's the case, and continues to be honed this way, it will cause future geometry problems, like a heel hook, recurve edge, and tapered toe.

A lot of razors come from the factory with the edge inline with the stabilizer, or even slightly behind it.
To correct this, simply grind the heel where the edge is forward of the stabilizer.

The hone should never contact any part of the stabilizer.

[kennbr34]

Vandelay, it looks like your razor has hone wear on the stabilizer. If that's the case, and continues to be honed this way, it will cause future geometry problems, like a heel hook, recurve edge, and tapered toe.

A lot of razors come from the factory with the edge inline with the stabilizer, or even slightly behind it.
To correct this, simply grind the heel where the edge is forward of the stabilizer.

The hone should never contact any part of the stabilizer.

I was told to use a nickle as a template to then draw a little radius down by the heel, and then grind it away. Worked very well and I like having the radius there for tight spots, because having a very pronounced squared angle there made it a little trickier to avoid cutting myself.

[vandelay]

Vandelay, it looks like your razor has hone wear on the stabilizer. If that's the case, and continues to be honed this way, it will cause future geometry problems, like a heel hook, recurve edge, and tapered toe.

A lot of razors come from the factory with the edge inline with the stabilizer, or even slightly behind it.
To correct this, simply grind the heel where the edge is forward of the stabilizer.

The hone should never contact any part of the stabilizer.

Yeah I can see that I went a bit too far when I was trying to hone it. I was having a difficult time grinding it because that side of the blade was so uneven, so I guess I wasn't controlling it properly. The other side look fine at least.

[Ric]

That are great news, Sal

No fancy materials to keep the prices down.
A plastic handle simiar to the roadie.

Very sharp out of the factory (it's standard for Spyderco but I wanted to mention)

Carbon steel (to get maximum sharpness)

Should be a workhorse and user.
Fancier iteration can follow later.

[vandelay]

No fancy materials to keep the prices down.
A plastic handle simiar to the roadie.

With the quality of spyderco's FRN, I actually wouldn't mind a plastic handle too much.
Plastic injection moulds tend to only be feasible for a high volume part, so I don't know if that would work here.

Carbon steel (to get maximum sharpness)

I appreciate the aesthetics of carbon steel, but AEB-L is a purpose designed razor steel, so it might be a better choice.

[Ric]

I appreciate the aesthetics of carbon steel, but AEB-L is a purpose designed razor steel, so it might be a better choice.

Yes.
I meant maximum sharpness.
Even if a bathroom is a wet environment also carbon steel will not rust that easy. Sharpness is key. If there is a good stainless steel available with good sharpness capabilities the better.

[vandelay]

I appreciate the aesthetics of carbon steel, but AEB-L is a purpose designed razor steel, so it might be a better choice.

Yes.
I meant maximum sharpness.
Even if a bathroom is a wet environment also carbon steel will not rust that easy. Sharpness is key. If there is a good stainless steel available with good sharpness capabilities the better.

AEB-L has an extremely fine microstructure, so it should be able to get very sharp while being tough. I haven't seen any scientific testing on razor steel sharpness though. It would be interesting if the science of sharp guy took some electron microscope images of AEB-L.

Also if the razor is using a carbon steel blade, a screwed construction would be much more important. I want to be able to clean rust off the pivot.

[jpm2]

I doubt I would buy any stainless steel straight razor.

[Doc Dan]

There are a few places that make stainless razors, but they are not as popular as non-stainless razors. People say they can't see any difference in performance, but one maker I know says that the carbon steels are best. All of my razors are non-stainless. I will note, however, that 13C26/AEB-L are used in razor blades, so there's that.

[vandelay]

I'd be interested in AEB-L since I've never seen a stainless straight razor with a relatively high steel grade before. I'd prefer carbon steel otherwise, especially if the alternative was something like 420C.