Manix Modifications. What have you done? What do you want to do?

[ZrowsN1s]

Any of you experienced problems with a lose handle after removing the lanyard tube? Do you need to re-flare it?

[TkoK83Spy]

Any of you experienced problems with a lose handle after removing the lanyard tube? Do you need to re-flare it?

Just a little dab of super glue should do the trick. That's what I did with mine, no issues since.

[Evil D]

Any of you experienced problems with a lose handle after removing the lanyard tube? Do you need to re-flare it?

Yes, but clip screws will hold the scales to the liners and the liners really don't flex outward. On mine I have three clip screws on the back side clip holes for this reason. I didn't like the idea of flaring the tube again but I guess that's an option. You could also probably get by with a small dab of thread locker.

[toomanypm2s]

I haven’t gotten mine started yet - I’m still trying to locate a backspacer and lanyard plug that speak to me. Planning on Ti ball cage with matching Ti screws, either a zirc or ceramic ball, and probably a set of zirc scales/clip.

[ladybug93]

Any of you experienced problems with a lose handle after removing the lanyard tube? Do you need to re-flare it?

yes. i mentioned this in my write-up. it's a non-issue for me.

[BMCM]

110v got a timascus cage and ceramic ball...



And a polished copper cage for the new 15v. I think that copper goes quite well with the brown G10 and should look even better as it patinas with age/use...



Cheers
Bill

[Coastal]

My favorite Manix mod is to upgrade Manixes having nice steels with Rockscale Designs linerless scales. This mod immediately transforms an already ergonomic knife into one that feels perfect (to me) in hand. I've done this with two G-10 Manixes (Manices?), one in Cruwear, another in 15V. I modded an S110V LW as well, discarding the FCRP scales. I'd like to say I've used the heck out of these knives, but I haven't.

My second favorite mod is the Ti ball cage. IMO it definitely provides better purchase than the plastic one, and like LB said, it just looks right with scales other than FCRP.

Next is replacing the strong OEM spring with a weak aftermarket spring. Combined with the Ti cage, this makes opening and closing with one finger or thumb a cinch, almost scary easy. As I said, I haven't used these knives hard, so I can't comment on whether the blade would tend to unlock in hard use. I'm leery enough, though, that I'm considering changing them to medium springs.

The OEM Spyderco clip is a genius design, but I can almost always find an aftermarket replacement that fits my grip better. My very favorite is MXG Gear's model #101061, a non-deep-carry Ti clip that sort of mimics the OEM clip but is a little longer and flatter, without any abrupt bends. To me it's perfect for the Manix and PM2, and it's my preferred clip for any Spyderco with the familiar 3-hole pattern. It's shown below on the Cruwear Manix.



The other Manix in the pic is a formerly base model sporting TeroTuf scales from Fireside Company, as well as a silver Ti cage that looks black in this lighting. TeroTuf feels like canvas micarta, but comes in the seafoam color shown plus several other non-typical Spydie colors. There seems to be more variety in TeroTuf colors than micarta, but less variety, if any, in texture.

[abbazaba]

I used to consider myself a Manix guy, before I fully came around to the PM2. At one point I had commissioned a CF LW, originally a Brown XHP exclusive:



The whole process made me think that I should just do it myself next time, so I made a set of Cocobolo scales, which I all but finished because I couldn't decide if I wanted to drill them for a stock clip, or try to machine out some grooves for a wire clip. I plan to finish them for the 15v, but here's a teaser pic from 2017:



Adding a metal cage to the knife didn't really excite me the way I hoped, but it does look pretty sweet IMO:



I'm really temped by the linerless scale mod as well, but I just never really carry a Manix anymore, other than a LW in one of my hiking kits.

[vandelay]

Are there any cages you can get that give you a better grip? The lock is a bit tricky to disengage if my hands are wet.

do you mean a better grip on the knife, or just the lock interface? if you're asking about the latter, the answer is absolutely yes for the ti version, but i imagine it's the same for all of them since they come from the same manufacturer.

Do the Flytanium ones stick out more?

The lock is a bit tricky to disengage if my hands are wet.

A zero-cost modification you can easily make is to cut a few coils off the spring. The reduced preload makes the cage much easier to pull back. The spring tension is also what holds the blade closed, so you'll be affecting that, as well. Different rate springs are also available from the usual sources, but I've never used any of those.

I thought of that, but I'd prefer not to ruin the nice detent the manix has. I feel like it shouldn't be as much of an issue as it is.

Are there any cages you can get that give you a better grip? The lock is a bit tricky to disengage if my hands are wet.

I'm guessing what you're referring to is how you need to "palm" the handle in order to get enough leverage to pull the lock back? This is something I'm not a fan of either, and even though I can muscle my way into unlocking it with just my thumb, it's not a fluid enough operation to choose that over using two fingers. I would say if you cut some jimping into the spine just above the lanyard hole, that would aid in palm traction during unlocking. Otherwise you could add one of the dinosaur spike gear looking back spacers to it and that will probably help.

My issue is both that you need to squeeze the cage really hard to get enough grip and also that my palm tends to slide off the back when my hands are slippery.
Funny to think about adding even more jimping to the manix, but that would work. I don't have the tools/skills to add jimping myself but the dinosaur backspacers might work. I'd worry about the knife's structural integrity without the lanyard tube's flare though.

[ladybug93]

i think i remember reading that the flytanium cage is a little wider. when i switch out the one in my 15v manix, i'll post a comparison picture of the two, unless someone beats me to it.

i've seen backspacers that snap in without disassembling the knife. maybe that would be an option for you. micarta or terotuff scales might help with your grip as well.

without the lanyard tube flare, i can pull apart my manix a little at the end if i want to. it only happens when i do it on purpose though. it has no effect on the stability or integrity of the knife in any way.

[SpyderForLyfe]

Any Manix I buy gets the exact same treatment: Cage upgraded to Ti, and scales replaced if they're blue or ugly. Nothing else! And since I blatantly refuse to EVER buy a LW, linerless, or riveted model, I never have to worry about drilling out for screws.

[Bolster]

I don't have the tools/skills to add jimping myself but the dinosaur backspacers might work.

You might be surprised...all you need is a checkering file, or a triangular diamond file with a guide. The liners are not hardened steel, so should not give you trouble. Have a look at Casper's work and methods here:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=93766&start=40


It is ironic, isn't it, that with all the jimping on the Manix (which I love, others don't), there's none in the palm area where it would help you operate the lock! LOL.

[JSumm]

It is ironic, isn't it, that with all the jimping on the Manix (which I love, others don't), there's none in the palm area where it would help you operate the lock! LOL.

I could do without the handle jimping. Part of why I want to try out some Rockscale Designs Scales. That said, I would definitely like to see some jimping near the palm area where you hold it against your palm while closing.

[ladybug93]

I don't have the tools/skills to add jimping myself but the dinosaur backspacers might work.

You might be surprised...all you need is a checkering file, or a triangular diamond file with a guide. The liners are not hardened steel, so should not give you trouble. Have a look at Casper's work and methods here:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=93766&start=40


It is ironic, isn't it, that with all the jimping on the Manix (which I love, others don't), there's none in the palm area where it would help you operate the lock! LOL.

i love the jimping too. i wouldn't want any in that position on the knife though because that is the part of the knife you have to slide past to get into your pocket. i know from years of carrying a zt0350 that can be a real pain in the... hand.

[vivi]

Top left - M4 DLC. Reprofiled the edge and gave it micarta scales



Left - S30V satin. straight spine mod, ground off the dumb handle jimping, reprofiled edge, acid etched blade, scale swap.





Bottom left - 4V DLC. reprofiled edge, scale swap from the M4 run, dyed kelly green then the ends dyed black for a fade.



Top right - C95 first run. Contoured the edge of the G10 and reprofiled the edge. Plan to do a straight spine mod eventually.



Bottom right - C95 sprint. stock for now - reprofiling the edge and contouring the edges of the scales sometime in January.

[vivi]

Ya'll need to get some captains of crush or something.

I've been using the Manix 2 & XL since the month they released. Had some pikals too.

I have never handled a CBBL that took more than a single thumb to unlock.

Here's closing my M4 my usual way and also swi ging it shut like a cool kid:

https://streamja.com/Qo3gV

I see this complaint a the time and I don't get it at all. I've had over 30 CBBL's in my possession over the years and never had one take two fingers, much less two hands.

[Bolster]

Plan to do a straight spine mod eventually.

I like your straight spine mod! Yours on the XL looks better than my photoshop mockup on the standard Manix. The second mockup gives a slight clip shape to the blade. Pointy!

[vivi]

Plan to do a straight spine mod eventually.

I like your straight spine mod! Yours on the XL looks better than my photoshop mockup on the standard Manix. The second mockup gives a slight clip shape to the blade.

It makes the choked up grip more comfortable for me:



I plan to eventually do it to all my satin finish Manix folders.

[cjk]

Applied Weapons Technology makes aluminum scales for the Manix 2 that don’t use the liners or the lanyard tube. They come with some extra hardware which adds a screw to the butt end of the knife. The lanyard hole is integral to the scales.

[Brock O Lee]

I have 2 old Manix sprints that received upgrades over the years.

Original tan M4: Krein regrind, AWT scales, brass cage and ceramic ball.


Original gray Cruwear: Putman scales and smoothed liner jimping.