That's one thing I've been wanting to try. What seems to happen to me a lot is I'll get experimental about lubes and other things. Strops for another example. I've used different stropping materials like balsa wood, felt, cow, horse and kangaroo leather, etc. Lots of different compounds and sprays also. Now when I strop I grab the one closest. :) Sometimes I think the phrase "keep it simple stupid!" was meant for me. :D
The best lubes I've used on pivots would be white lithium grease and molybdenum grease. Nothing works better or lasts longer. Oils do not last on the pivots as well as grease.
There are some really good lubricants mentioned in this thread. I typically seal the bearing surfaces with tuff glide after cleaning. When done and on a dry, clean and sealed surface I spray on a dry lube. All this is intended to keep the bearing surfaces clean of any trapped grit that can damage the surfaces during movement.
On slippies with old or scored surfaces I will clean then use a grease. This helps smooth up the opening process. Although I do strip the grease off and clean regularly I don't mind it's tendency to trap grit as much because there are already imperfections. Typically I use a silicone grease or something like Slick 50 grease. It's clear blue and stays where I put it.
When done properly from the beginning my Enduras and other lock backs end up so smooth eventually from use no lube is needed any more. My 92 made Endura is like glass and still is very carry-able except for the plastic clip which can no longer keep the knife clipped safely. That Endura should outlast me. I have a few in fact.
Liner locks and frame locks are kept clean and dry at the point of lock up. Other than the occasional drop of Rem oil or Tri flow I don't do much other than keeping things clean in the pivot area.
I rarely use graphite any more because I got sick of the mess years ago. I still have moly powder lube around from my arsenal days and can use that if needed but rarely will on knives. I used that mostly on S&W revolver internals in the trigger group though it has other uses as well. It's harder to get now so I don't waste it.
I've used Nano oil two or three times without as much success as described by Jack. Is it crucial to totally remove all petroleum based oil before applying the Nano oil to prevent some kind of gumming up? In general I haven't found it necessary to use much lubrication except when cleaning out a pivot that starts to tighten up, such as my super blue Caly 3.
IIRC a rep from the Nano oil company once said to apply the Nano, tighten the pivot firmly to force it in place or whatever, then loosen to adjust. When I tried that the blade would not fall freely by gravity without noticeable play. (Can't remember for sure which knife this was but I think it was a DLC Manix 2 which soon wore in and swung freely.)
By the way, I've taken note of the advice of Jack, The Mastiff, and several others and plan to apply some of the advice soon. Thanks everybody for participating in these threads. I've tried most of the popular lubes, have 6 or 8 types on hand, but really haven't found the need to experiment that much, or much way to do it decisively. I've gotten by pretty well most of the time with FrogLube CLP, which seems to clean pivots better than the FrogLube Solvent to me, and keep them in good operation, plus there seems to be an idea that it's food safe, though I haven't seen a good clear statement of it at their site.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod Note to self: Less is more.
Don't think my Delica really needs any , it has I guess you call them Teflon "shims" along side the blade so it's perfect !! I put a drop of three in one oil on it about a month ago can't hurt. My other Spyderco is the Jump Master
