Bushcraft folder

[Niles]

Has there been discussion of creating a folder with a bit thicker blade, scandi grind, and a tool steel for bushcraft?

[KevinOubre]

I use my Gayle Bradley as a bushcraft folder much of the time and have never felt that it was missing anything.

[On Edge]

While no folder will provide the strength needed for some bushcraft activities (without risking damage), the geometry and foundation of this one is based in the Finnish Puuko lineage, and those (fixed blade puukos) make excellent bushcraft knives ...

Nilakka.

Specs:
https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/detail ... roduct=780" target="_blank

Nice little write up by gbelleh ...
http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtop ... &start=200" target="_blank

~ edge

[swigert]

The nilakka fits the Scandi grind but is about as far from a bushcraft knife as the ladybug is lol

[Niles]

The Nilakka is more FFG than Scandi grind to me. I'm talking about a true Scandi like the bushcraft FB. The GB suffers from the same sort of problem - I want some meat behind the edge.

[sdedalus83]

I want some meat behind the edge.

The saber ground endura has more of this than any zero scandi grind will. It wouldn't be difficult to either grind it to zero or convex it if you want the scandi sharpening method.

[wrdwrght]

Having a bushcraft knife and having a folder reminiscent of a bushcraft knife are very different things. Why pretend?

[Niles]

Having a bushcraft knife and having a folder reminiscent of a bushcraft knife are very different things. Why pretend?

I don't tend to carry a FB, but I want a scandi when I'm out and about walking the dog through the woods, quick hikes, etc. It's not a replacement, it's a functional approximation.

[3rdGenRigger]

The Schempp Tuff is the closest that comes to mind of the current offerings.

[GoldenSpydie]

I must ask: what is so special about a scandi grind? There are plenty of stout folders that will work for bushcraft, including the Manix 2 XL, K2, PM2, Lionspy, Tuff, etc. If it is not intended for extend use in the woods, in which case you probably need a fixed blade anyway, just about any strong folder should work. :)

[tvenuto]

Having a bushcraft knife and having a folder reminiscent of a bushcraft knife are very different things. Why pretend?

I don't tend to carry a FB, but I want a scandi when I'm out and about walking the dog through the woods, quick hikes, etc. It's not a replacement, it's a functional approximation.

In that case I'd say find a saber ground past model and take it down to a scandi grind with some stones is the best option. If it were me I'd probably try and scare up an older manix saber grind.

However, part of the benefit of the scandi is that it's easy to sharpen in the field, and for what you describe, you don't really need that aspect like GS mentioned. However I can see if you just like to keep things similar to what you're used to if you have scandi fixed blades.

[Niles]

Having a bushcraft knife and having a folder reminiscent of a bushcraft knife are very different things. Why pretend?

I don't tend to carry a FB, but I want a scandi when I'm out and about walking the dog through the woods, quick hikes, etc. It's not a replacement, it's a functional approximation.

In that case I'd say find a saber ground past model and take it down to a scandi grind with some stones is the best option. If it were me I'd probably try and scare up an older manix saber grind.

However, part of the benefit of the scandi is that it's easy to sharpen in the field, and for what you describe, you don't really need that aspect like GS mentioned. However I can see if you just like to keep things similar to what you're used to if you have scandi fixed blades.

I think you're probably right…in that if I want this knife I'll probably only get it by modifying an existing model; the problem is that I'd wish for a tool steel still, but VG-10 is fine. I'm not sure about the Manix just because of the handle…it tends to dig into my palm with hard use. The saber ground Endura is probably the easiest way to go.

I mocked up a picture that's a combo of the stretch, endura, and bushcraft. If this were made in O1 I'd have my knife.

[Niles]

I must ask: what is so special about a scandi grind? There are plenty of stout folders that will work for bushcraft, including the Manix 2 XL, K2, PM2, Lionspy, Tuff, etc. If it is not intended for extend use in the woods, in which case you probably need a fixed blade anyway, just about any strong folder should work. :)

In my experience, cutting on wood with a scandi grind is a joy compared to the others. Having one consistent long bevel makes cutting smooth and predictable. Two bevels (i.e. saber grind, etc.) feels more choppy. I also worry about the edge much less with the scandi grind. And with the tool steels, I don't worry much about chipping or breakage.

[elena86]

I hear you.Something like this in D2 https://youtu.be/hqctAtsT848" target="_blank :cool:

[Fancier]

I've had what you are looking for on order with a custom maker since 2013... I'll let you know how it works out when it arrives!
The knife will have a contoured handle with full scales and a scandi grind blade in 3V, and I'll probably get it later this year! :)
(Let the scoffing begin!) :P

[senorsquare]

On a couple of occasions, I have taken a bunch of folders in my collection and performed head to head comparisons cutting wood. This would consist of cutting on hard oak and switching knives repeatedly to get immediate in hand comparisons from one knife to another. I would usually test 7-8 knives at a time and every time the Native 5 has outshined the others by a long shot. I found it to be superior in both ease of removing material and being comfortable in the hand without creating hotspots. The Native 5 might be the last knife someone would classify as a "bushcraft folder" but would likely be the first I would grab if I had to do a lot of wood cutting (chopping excluded, in which case I would grab the Tuff). It's not scandi ground but it's a darn good performer in my book. YMMV

I hear you.Something like this in D2 https://youtu.be/hqctAtsT848" target="_blank :cool:

Yeah, those Enzo's look like the ticket.

[sal]

Hi Niles,

We have one in-the-works, designed by a well know designer. That's all I can say at this time.

Hey GS,

the "art" of Bushcrafting is far more developed than many would know about. I would suggest you look into it more deeply to get a real understanding about why just any old knife can't be used. Bushcraft UK is a good source for info and can get you towards a better study of Bushcrafting. Chris Calycomb, the gentleman that designed our Bushcraft is part of that group.

sal

[Blerv]

I have a Fallkniven PXL WH (Grilon/Zytel scales on steel liners) which is pretty much that. A nice knife but pretty dang thick in stock format.

I had Travis grind it thin and it ended up a true Scandi/zero bevel. Sharp as can be. Not sure how durable to be quite honest. Probably something in the middle would be ideal (like the Gayle Bradley but with different grips).

[GoldenSpydie]

Hi Niles,

We have one in-the-works, designed by a well know designer. That's all I can say at this time.

Interesting. You always have something interesting going on, and I can't wait to see this when it materializes.

Hey GS,

the "art" of Bushcrafting is far more developed than many would know about. I would suggest you look into it more deeply to get a real understanding about why just any old knife can't be used. Bushcraft UK is a good source for info and can get you towards a better study of Bushcrafting. Chris Calycomb, the gentleman that designed our Bushcraft is part of that group.

sal

Thanks for the reply! :) I will check out the site you mentioned and try to learn more about the benefits of a scandi grind. I have a couple of knives (Mora and others) with scandi grinds, but they always seemed like they took a long time to sharpen due to the large area of steel that contacts the stone as opposed to a small secondary bevel. Maybe my scandi sharpening technique is incorrect?

[Fancier]

The bushcraft folks value ease of field sharpening, I think because they use their knives hard and know that they will need to.
I think that the popularity of O1 in bushcraft stems from the ease with which a new fine edge can be put on it despite the enormous bevel.