Community Sharpening Journal

[TkoK83Spy]

Dumb question: what does the burr do the the apex of left on? I can feel one easily when I’m using the 200-400 grit stones on the Worksharp precision but as I get to the 600-800 range it’s harder for me to feel. I try to use the ceramic rods to remove it but maybe it’s left.

If you're still feeling the burr at 200-400, you need to remove it there before moving onto other grit progressions.

Maybe that’s my problem. I haven’t deburred between moving to the next stone. What can I do for that?

Yep, always deburr on whatever grit you're using before going to the next. Have you used a sharpie to see how close you are to the apex? That helps A LOT. Also use very light pressure when you're nearly apexed. I see you use the Precision Adjust...when I sharpen on that, I used the "sawing" motion versus the single strokes. But, once I'm close to or am deburring, I switch to very light single strokes. Seems to help me, or even make the most minor adjustment to raise it ever so slightly to help with that burr if it's a stubborn one.

[RugerNurse]

Dumb question: what does the burr do the the apex of left on? I can feel one easily when I’m using the 200-400 grit stones on the Worksharp precision but as I get to the 600-800 range it’s harder for me to feel. I try to use the ceramic rods to remove it but maybe it’s left.

If you're still feeling the burr at 200-400, you need to remove it there before moving onto other grit progressions.

Maybe that’s my problem. I haven’t deburred between moving to the next stone. What can I do for that?

Yep, always deburr on whatever grit you're using before going to the next. Have you used a sharpie to see how close you are to the apex? That helps A LOT. Also use very light pressure when you're nearly apexed. I see you use the Precision Adjust...when I sharpen on that, I used the "sawing" motion versus the single strokes. But, once I'm close to or am deburring, I switch to very light single strokes. Seems to help me, or even make the most minor adjustment to raise it ever so slightly to help with that burr if it's a stubborn one.

I will have to try that. I can get a good burr with the sawing motion on it. I’ll try to take it off with some light strokes. Thanks for the tips

[vivi]

There's only three things you need to do to deburr well in my opinion.

1. Ensure you're hitting the apex with each stroke

2. Alternate sides with every stroke

3. Use the lightest pressure you can while still making full contact (less than the weight of the knife you are sharpening, always)

I find edge leading strokes seem to help but maybe its in my head. Edge trailing strokes can still produce a fantastic edge.

[BIGSTRETCH]

Baryonyx American Mutt, pink (older, harder bond)
Spyderco Medium Rod
Stone in Hand Sharpening

Knife, 14c28n Santoku, Ontario Agilite series

Sorry, I meant to add more...

This Ontario Santoku has to be one of the most ridiculous deals available right now at the sale price of $19.99. You aren't going to get Spyderco's 62-63 HRC AEB-L (and you definitely should, go buy that mule!), but you're probably getting the advertised 58 rockwell and this steel is basically Nitrogen AEB-L from what I've read.

The edge was a disaster out of the box. I mean hideous. I'm not sure that my particular knife wasn't a return. No matter! The American Mutt at least as good as any other low grit stone out there. It will chew through metal. The Spyderco Medium rod, hones and refines the edge. If you keep at it with the Medium stone, it will burnish the steel- making it shiny. Be careful though, I had to go over it twice with the Medium. This is often the case when I reprofile by hand, the apex gets rounded over at some point in the sharpening and needs a quick do-over. Just check sharpness between each stone and it is not a big deal. Maybe I'll get better, touchups are always more straightforward than this.

[vivi]

Did some work on my Military today.

Cleaned it, lubed it, loc-tite on every screw, pivot perfectly dialed, and of course worked on the edge.

Goal was to take it thinner and coarser than it was, and get it cleanly shaving right off my chefknivestogo 140 grit diamond plate.



I failed at that, only getting a rough shaving edge, so I cheated and went up to 180 grit to finish off the edge.






Cleanly shaves. Extremely toothy still despite such a high polish, and a little thinner behind the edge than it was previously.

[BIGSTRETCH]

Did some work on my Military today.

Cleaned it, lubed it, loc-tite on every screw, pivot perfectly dialed, and of course worked on the edge.

Goal was to take it thinner and coarser than it was, and get it cleanly shaving right off my chefknivestogo 140 grit diamond plate....

Very clean looking edge for such a coarse finish. I bet it rips and cleanly too!

What are you using for those close up pics of the edge? Is there a setting or something I need to change in my iphone to get such a clear, focused image of the entire edge?

[Guts]

Baryonyx American Mutt, pink (older, harder bond)
Spyderco Medium Rod
Stone in Hand Sharpening

Knife, 14c28n Santoku, Ontario Agilite series

Sorry, I meant to add more...

This Ontario Santoku has to be one of the most ridiculous deals available right now at the sale price of $19.99. You aren't going to get Spyderco's 62-63 HRC AEB-L (and you definitely should, go buy that mule!), but you're probably getting the advertised 58 rockwell and this steel is basically Nitrogen AEB-L from what I've read.

The edge was a disaster out of the box. I mean hideous. I'm not sure that my particular knife wasn't a return. No matter! The American Mutt at least as good as any other low grit stone out there. It will chew through metal. The Spyderco Medium rod, hones and refines the edge. If you keep at it with the Medium stone, it will burnish the steel- making it shiny. Be careful though, I had to go over it twice with the Medium. This is often the case when I reprofile by hand, the apex gets rounded over at some point in the sharpening and needs a quick do-over. Just check sharpness between each stone and it is not a big deal. Maybe I'll get better, touchups are always more straightforward than this.

Almost grabbed a couple of those Santoku's for my parents but held off because of the seconds sale today. If they're still available in a couple weeks I'll probably grab one. Great deal for the steel like you said.

[vivi]

Did some work on my Military today.

Cleaned it, lubed it, loc-tite on every screw, pivot perfectly dialed, and of course worked on the edge.

Goal was to take it thinner and coarser than it was, and get it cleanly shaving right off my chefknivestogo 140 grit diamond plate....

Very clean looking edge for such a coarse finish. I bet it rips and cleanly too!

What are you using for those close up pics of the edge? Is there a setting or something I need to change in my iphone to get such a clear, focused image of the entire edge?

On most smart phones when you're using a camera app you can tap to focus. You can also tap and hold to lock the focus. I do that and then move the phone closer or further away as needed to focus on the part of the edge I'm trying to capture.

Taking photos of edges isn't easy but this helps. ihpones have good cameras too so you should be able to produce better images than my six year old android.

[BIGSTRETCH]

On most smart phones when you're using a camera app you can tap to focus. You can also tap and hold to lock the focus. I do that and then move the phone closer or further away as needed to focus on the part of the edge I'm trying to capture.

Taking photos of edges isn't easy but this helps. ihpones have good cameras too so you should be able to produce better images than my six year old android.

Thanks, I'll mess with it some more. If it were an actual camera, I'd just open up the aperture. It only wants to focus on a small area at a time. I'm not ancient by any means, the technology simply outpaced my ability to keep up at some point. lol

[Wandering_About]

Finally got around to reprofiling this MagnaCut Insingo bladed Sebenza. It came with a pretty good edge so I wasn't in a rush to put it to the stones, but since we're in a hot week sharpening a knife seemed like a good way to use up some time indoors in air conditioning. 140 grit Atoma, then 400 and 1000 grit super vitrified diamond stones, then strop with 1 micron diamond, all done freehand. I haven't been going quite as silly thin lately, not for any really big reason. It does definitely take less time though.

[vivi]

Since I had my Aqua Salts out tonight, I decided to touch up my blacked out PE. Not sure what I did with it last but it was seriously dull.

The bevel was already set to a thinner than factory angle, so I didn't mess with it. Using a 15 degree angle, I did about 10 swipes per side on a 400 grit diamond plate. More polished than I normally go. Got hair popping sharp.

[RugerNurse]

I mess around some my salt 2 in Lc200n this morning before work. I made sure the scratch pattern was consistent from the heel to the apex and tried to remove the burr between moving to grits. I need to get better at removing the burr. It feels more sticky than before but running my finger from the heel to edge I can feel it’s tougher on one side while the other feels smooth. Hope that makes sense. I’ll keep working in burr removal techniques.

[RugerNurse]

Tried to smooth it out after work. Not as nice as Vivi’s Aqua Salt edge but way better than I’ve done in the past. Lc200n is tricky to deburr ad people mentioned previously here. Stubborn to get off

[BIGSTRETCH]

Lc200n is tricky to deburr ad people mentioned previously here. Stubborn to get off

I've found the same for almost every thing stainless. On kitchen knives, bear in mind I'm no sushi chef, a little burr doesn't bother me as far as how the edge functions and it disappears quickly with use. You gotta wonder about ingesting the stuff though...

This Z-Cut has become my most used knife for both the home kitchen and work kitchen since I got it. Like a lot of kitchen knives, it gets abused and there is rarely ever time to put a new edge on it. It got a little TLC today.

-Resharpened on a single Spyderco Medium rod, stone in hand.
1. Grind along one side of edge until a burr forms on the other.
2. Repeat on the other side.

-Followed by one side, then the other stropping on a 5" Spyderco Fine pocket stone. See the burnishing effect? Does it hurt the edge retention? I don’t know, but it gets even shinier if you force it. This stone gives back what you put into it. If you go hard on it to enhance the burnish, I suggest you stay a little shallow on the angle so that the edge doesn’t roll over.

-Finally, I did about 10-15 one side, then the other strops on the bare leather Spyderco pocket stone slip case. Extremely shallow, like face of the blade riding the surface of the leather. That shallow. Did I still see a bit of burr reflecting back at me? Yes. Was it still sharp enough to make this mango cutting a delicate matter? Yes. I’m sure that I’ll ingest what is left of the burr with this here Mango and it will come out sharper on the other end.


Now, how about some of these in AEB-L???? A kitchen knife sprint run sounds like fun to me. It has probably been done before, has it?

[dullmaker]

Sal,
Please can we get a Gauntlet for 15 Dps? I’ll be glad to buy a second one. I’m loving the one I have with the cbn stones. Best results I’ve gotten from sharpening so far. For me it is much better than my Sharpmaker. Even doing a few strokes on it after my KME, or Precision Adjust produces a good edge for me.
Thanks
Bruce

[olywa]

I heartily second this request! I wish there was a base that would hold the cat eye rods from The Gauntlet and/or the Galley V at 10°, 15° and 20°. 12.5° and 17.5° wouldn't hurt my feelings either. And while we're at it, how about some medium grit cat eye rods as well?

[BIGSTRETCH]

the Galley V at 10°, 15° and 20°. 12.5° and 17.5° wouldn't hurt my feelings either. And while we're at it, how about some medium grit cat eye rods as well?

I have to agree with this. I haven't used the Galley V since picking it up last fall. 10 dps is probably too limiting.


I might be mistaken, but wasn't it designed for a specific role in the meat packing industry? Perhaps it works great for a quick touch up if you have a dedicated, and very soft, cheap butcher knife like a dexter at 10dps. Maybe it is just for a different niche than your average Spyderco fan.

[Jman1]

I want to get a Work Sharp Precision Adjust but don't know which one to get. Is the base model good enough or is the elite model worth the extra money? I know there is also a pro version but I don't think I want to spend that much.

[HolySteel]

I just finished sharpening one of the BHQ PM2 Tanto sprints - my first Tanto sharpening (an authentic one!). When I received it, it appeared to have the factory edge but was very dull. There was chipping where the edges of the blade met, as if someone had been beating a piece of metal with it.

I sharpened using a Medium Spyderco stone, thought I had it, so stropped with 1um Gunny juice. Had to re-do a couple of times. Finally gave up and hit it with the Fine stone, stropped, repeated with the Fine, working on a couple of spots I had missed. Now it is really great.

I have found CPM 30V blades easy to sharpen.

[northvanbamboo]

Sal,
Please can we get a Gauntlet for 15 Dps? I’ll be glad to buy a second one. I’m loving the one I have with the cbn stones. Best results I’ve gotten from sharpening so far. For me it is much better than my Sharpmaker. Even doing a few strokes on it after my KME, or Precision Adjust produces a good edge for me.
Thanks
Bruce

You can 3D print them yourself nowadays