Sanding/Chamfering G10 scales - Tips, tricks, and results?

[ovgcguy]

I got my first PM2 and can't stand the unchamfered scales compared to the beautifully contoured PM3LW or Ayoob, so I'd like to sand an edge break on them -

-Can someone post a pic of their hand-edge-softened scales?
-What grit progression have people used successfully?
-I heard use a popsicle stick or dowel works well as a sandpaper backer?
-Any tips or tricks experienced scale-sanders can share to improve my first go at it?

Or does any service modify factory scales with a chamfer that I could just pay to do this professionally?

Thanks

[Evil D]

You can wrap sandpaper around any flat surface that you can hold and it'll get the job done, I often use my Sharpmaker rods.

One word of caution though, don't get carried away, the liners are nested and they come pretty close to the edges, and if you get too aggressive you may sand through and expose a liner.

It really doesn't take much to make the handle feel softer. You can do it however you want, if you want it to look more factory you can try to match the factory bevel angle or you can just freehand it and round off the shoulders like a tiny version of a Shaman handle.

[vandelay]

I wonder whether it'd be possible to use a router on edges of the scales to produce a nice even bevel. I've always wanted to bevel some of my scales, like on my lil' native, but I don't have the freehand sanding skills to pull that off.

[Bemo]

On my smooth g10 scaled cruwear Para 2 I used some well worn 220 and my hand/fingers. Like Evil D said less is more. I wasn't shooting for a perfect chamfer, more of a softening and rounding of the edge. I wanted it to feel good in hand, looking good to the eye was secondary. However, you'd never notice unless you actually compared it with a brand new one.

[ajl808]

Thanks for starting this thread! I was thinking if smoothing the textured g10 on my Yojumbo. If I’m only going to do a few passes with sandpaper, do the scales have to be taken off?

Any advice on sanding g10? I thought I read somewhere that it can irritate the skin.

[ajl808]

Thanks for starting this thread! I was thinking if smoothing the textured g10 on my Yojumbo. If I’m only going to do a few passes with sandpaper, do the scales have to be taken off?

Any advice on sanding g10? I thought I read somewhere that it can irritate the skin.

[Evil D]

I wonder whether it'd be possible to use a router on edges of the scales to produce a nice even bevel. I've always wanted to bevel some of my scales, like on my lil' native, but I don't have the freehand sanding skills to pull that off.

Oh it definitely is possible, it's really no different than machining wood, if you have the tools for it and can secure a small scale so it doesn't move you could definitely bevel it with a router.

[endura3]

Thanks for starting this thread! I was thinking if smoothing the textured g10 on my Yojumbo. If I’m only going to do a few passes with sandpaper, do the scales have to be taken off?

Any advice on sanding g10? I thought I read somewhere that it can irritate the skin.

The main safety hazard with G10 sanding is particulate inhalation. It's less of an issue if you're just doing minor work like chamfering scales, but it's still a good idea to work in a well-ventilated space with a dust mask or respirator, and/or do the sanding "wet" to prevent particulates from getting in the air.

I wouldn't worry as much about getting it on your hands, but you definitely need to avoid inhalation, or getting it in your eyes for that matter. When I sand G10 I usually just do it in the shop sink with Wet or Dry sandpaper under running water to try and keep any dust out of the air in the first place.

You should be fine keeping the scales on the knife for chamfering too - although if you're smoothing the texturing on the "face" of the scales, you may need to remove them since the body screws are flush with their surface

[Spyderwebs]

Wow. G10 sands so nice and so easy! I chamfered and contoured the scales beautifully in about 30 minutes.
I wrapped 220 grit around a sharpie and carefully chamfered it at 45 degrees, about 1mm around the entire perimeter and 2-3mm near the right side thumb hole position to make room for my fat thumb. I removed material with oerpendicular strokes, smoothed with oval strokes, then finished with parallel strokes.
Then I finished everything with 320 grip and my finger.

The bevel significantly improves overall comfort and the deep bevel makes access to the spydiehole much easier.

Looks factory IMO. Makes this knife much nicer in the hand. Overall I'm amazed how easy this was and how well the finish matches the factory edge.

If you ever wanted to soften a G10 knife, do it!

https://imgur.com/a/wKM2jCb