How is the Endura thin (red/blue) line (partial) serration pattern? (title edited)

[Wartstein]

- I think that combo-edge Spydies do have their virtues and place.
- And an ffg, regular blade shape, VG10, SE Endura would be kind of my perfect EDC (but does not come in that exact configuration)

Sooo... the thin red/blue line Endura comes pretty close to what I want - not fully, but at least partially serrated, and the idea and charity aspect behind the model is good too.

- Could anyone who ones one share how the serration pattern on the thin line Endura is? (aicolainen..? )?

I like the "mild" ,non aggressive, not too pointy type of serrations like for example the Endela SE offers.
Should the thin line Endura teeth be somewhat like that, I´d strongly consider getting one... (and then have to decide if the red or blue thin line is cooler... )

[Wartstein]

... no one?

[Cycletroll]

I have a redline CE Endela. Has shallow serrations. I'll post pics in an hour or so.

[Wartstein]

I have a redline CE Endela. Has shallow serrations. I'll post pics in an hour or so.

You're the best, my friend!

[mongo1958]

The serrations in photo looks a lot like my Native 5, deep and aggressive.

[mongo1958]

[Saucerito]

Wartstein,

This post won’t answer your question but I feel like this as good a place to post this as any. I lurk on this site more often than posting but I’ve seen you post about the Endela serrations quite a bit. Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten a chance to see them in real life but I’ve seen pictures on here and I have experience with the S2XL (which I know you have and like). As much as you talk about how good the serrations are on the Endela and S2XL LW (non-aggressive, less pointy), I really think you would enjoy trying out the Caribbean SE before they’re all sold out. Relatively speaking, the S2XL serrations are very aggressive/pointy out of the box compared with the Caribbean. It’s really night and day. See my pictures in the thread below:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93153&p=1686616#p1686616

[Stuart Ackerman]

The serrations are done on a solid abrasive wheel that has positive rounded protrusions that cut the hollow ground serrations that you see above. The abrasive has to be redressed to cut more efficiently as time goes by.

I built a serration machine using thin Tyrolit 220 grit discs bolted together, and each disc was individually shaped to replicate the Spyderco pattern in a larger profile for the teeth, and only for a Warncliffe profile.

Each disc was either 4mm and 7mm thick, hence the larger teeth. Still classic Spyderco...two small, and one large...

[Stuart Ackerman]

Look here... ( a diamond coated version, but you get the idea? )

https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/serratio ... -2607.html

[Wartstein]

Wartstein,

This post won’t answer your question but I feel like this as good a place to post this as any. I lurk on this site more often than posting but I’ve seen you post about the Endela serrations quite a bit. Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten a chance to see them in real life but I’ve seen pictures on here and I have experience with the S2XL (which I know you have and like). As much as you talk about how good the serrations are on the Endela and S2XL LW (non-aggressive, less pointy), I really think you would enjoy trying out the Caribbean SE before they’re all sold out. Relatively speaking, the S2XL serrations are very aggressive/pointy out of the box compared with the Caribbean. It’s really night and day. See my pictures in the thread below:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93153&p=1686616#p1686616

Thanks a lot for the recommendation!

Actually especially Davids / Evil Ds posts have convinced me already that the Caribbean serrations probably are the best on any Spyderco one can get.

The Caribbean has a lot going for it generally (long edge for the size, looks like it has great ergos and so on), but it is still not completely my kind of Spydie (I prefer FRN over G10 and another lock type than the comp.lock especially on bigger, more "outdoorsy knives", also a weight of not more than around 3.5 oz if I can have it).

I am really happy with the Endela serrations already, and the Stretch XLs teeth are not bad either.

As for a "carribean-ish" option: I hope the "Cliff Jumper" / "Sequoia" / "Leaf Jumper XL" (whatever they´ll call it in the end) will be kind of a "backlock Carribean".

[Wartstein]

The serrations are done on a solid abrasive wheel that has positive rounded protrusions ...

Hey Stuart,

thanks, I really appreciate your reply and explanation!!

But I actually know "how serrations are done" - the title of my thread was misleading though, due to my not perfect English

I did not mean "how serrations are put into a blade technically", but rather what the particular serration pattern on the thin line Endura looks like (so how deep/shallow, pointy and so on).

So I just edited the thread title!

Still :Thanks again!