Manix Modifications. What have you done? What do you want to do?

[Self Taught]

My cage has started to wear and does not have the bite that my new one does so I’m going to replace it with a titanium one. And maybe get titanium scales. There’s a guy who makes linerless titanium scales that lighten the knife a bit. That’s a practical upgrade if you ask me

[Coastal]

Rockscale Design.

[Senfkarte]

i do feel that the plastic cage operated a little more smoothly. it's more difficult to use the metal cage with one finger as opposed to a pinch grip because the stem of the cage binds a little on the spring. i can still do it though and still prefer the extra traction of the metal.

If you replace the spring, with a 1 step down spring, you should be able to operate it with just your finger or thumb. At least, I am able to.

Anyone else here in club "I've never handled a CBBL from factory that couldn't be unlocked with just one finger" besides me and wartstein?

I can't think of one, I could not unlock with one finger.
Most of the time I use two fingers, but it is possible to use one.



To the general topic of this thread:

I'm in the camp, that want the spring to be as stiff, as it is. Seems very near perfect for me.


The cage on the other hand is something I like to change on my Manix 2s. Purely for the looks, no question. But that's a reason good enough for me.
There is no benefit in function or at least, as far as I can tell. Maybe the plastic one is infinitesimal more functional. I have the slightest bit of feeling, that the plastic one slides a fraction of an attonewton better.

As a side note, some of the metal cages from flytanium had a sharper profile on the sides, than the plastic ones from Spyderco.

[Senfkarte]

This thing was better than great, when it left the factory.
Now it's my personal dream Manix 2.

The changes I made: A titan ball cage, ceramic ball and a back spacer made out of aluminium.

The cage is just for the aesthetics.
Now all the hardware is silver/metallic. Locks cleaner, simpler, more fitting. I even have the feeling, this change alone is enough to let the brown appear more gray/brown, which I like.

The ceramic ball has no purpose.
I just had it laying around, got it for cheap some time ago. Have ordered some ball bearings and the shop had the right size for a few bucks, so I just put some in the cart. The stock steel one is just perfectly fine.

The back spacer is functional.
A back spacer protects the edge. And eliminates a hot spot, when really gripping hard or pushing down on the knife. Nothing that is needed every day, but still a nice to have. And it just looks better. At least in this case and in my opinion.

Yes, there is no clip on this knife at the moment. Can't really say why, but this knife is carried loose in the pocket. Maybe because I mainly carry it in and around the house. That's just how it is at the moment. It may change in the future.
Pretty sure, the screws are too long with the back spacer, so I would have to shorten them first. This would be a little bonus modification.

[Enactive]

This thing was better than great, when it left the factory.
Now it's my personal dream Manix 2.

The changes I made: A titan ball cage, ceramic ball and a back spacer made out of aluminium.
16.jpg


The cage is just for the aesthetics.
Now all the hardware is silver/metallic. Locks cleaner, simpler, more fitting. I even have the feeling, this change alone is enough to let the brown appear more gray/brown, which I like.

The ceramic ball has no purpose.
I just had it laying around, got it for cheap some time ago. Have ordered some ball bearings and the shop had the right size for a few bucks, so I just put some in the cart. The stock steel one is just perfectly fine.

The back spacer is functional.
A back spacer protects the edge. And eliminates a hot spot, when really gripping hard or pushing down on the knife. Nothing that is needed every day, but still a nice to have. And it just looks better. At least in this case and in my opinion.17.jpg

Yes, there is no clip on this knife at the moment. Can't really say why, but this knife is carried loose in the pocket. Maybe because I mainly carry it in and around the house. That's just how it is at the moment. It may change in the future.
Pretty sure, the screws are too long with the back spacer, so I would have to shorten them first. This would be a little bonus modification.

Awesome work! I really like the backspacer! I like open back construction on some knives, but more typically prefer the edge protection provided by the closed back, as well as the ergonomic improvement.

That for sharing!

[TkoK83Spy]

That's a sick backspacer!! Haven't seen one like that before. Very nice.

[Enactive]

That's a sick backspacer!! Haven't seen one like that before. Very nice.

Word! Senfkarte deserves props for that work!

[Vamais]

This thing was better than great, when it left the factory.
Now it's my personal dream Manix 2.

The changes I made: A titan ball cage, ceramic ball and a back spacer made out of aluminium.
16.jpg


The cage is just for the aesthetics.
Now all the hardware is silver/metallic. Locks cleaner, simpler, more fitting. I even have the feeling, this change alone is enough to let the brown appear more gray/brown, which I like.

The ceramic ball has no purpose.
I just had it laying around, got it for cheap some time ago. Have ordered some ball bearings and the shop had the right size for a few bucks, so I just put some in the cart. The stock steel one is just perfectly fine.

The back spacer is functional.
A back spacer protects the edge. And eliminates a hot spot, when really gripping hard or pushing down on the knife. Nothing that is needed every day, but still a nice to have. And it just looks better. At least in this case and in my opinion.17.jpg

Yes, there is no clip on this knife at the moment. Can't really say why, but this knife is carried loose in the pocket. Maybe because I mainly carry it in and around the house. That's just how it is at the moment. It may change in the future.
Pretty sure, the screws are too long with the back spacer, so I would have to shorten them first. This would be a little bonus modification.

How is the backspacer attached/installed? I'm thinking of doing something similar, but I haven't thought too much about it yet.

[8-fingers]

I did this mod over 4 years ago after the Maxamet LW’s first came out and I wanted a G-10 version… since then, mostly scale/spring/cage swaps…

[Bolster]

Pretty sure, the screws are too long with the back spacer, so I would have to shorten them first. This would be a little bonus modification.

If it were my knife, I'd try to drill and tap the backspacer, rather than shorten the screws. Barring that, I'd drill shallow relief holes for the screws so no screw shortening would be necessary.

[ladybug93]

Pretty sure, the screws are too long with the back spacer, so I would have to shorten them first. This would be a little bonus modification.

If it were my knife, I'd try to drill and tap the backspacer, rather than shorten the screws. Barring that, I'd drill shallow relief holes for the screws so no screw shortening would be necessary.

that's what i'd do too.

[jmj3esq]

Here’s my favorite out of my 6 Manix 2 knives. M390 blade. Ripps Garage Tech featherweight Ti “angle parallel” scales. Flytanium/Glow Rhino ball cage. Ceramic ball. Ti geared backspacer. Sexy and smooth.

[Senfkarte]

Thanks for all the nice words. Appreciate it.

How is the backspacer attached/installed? I'm thinking of doing something similar, but I haven't thought too much about it yet.

The backspacer encloses the lanyard tube and rests against the anvil (that's what Spydercos calls this piece, at least) while its contour is fitted to the anvil.
I actually made some pictures while making it. Here you can see the spacer without one of the liners installed.

If it were my knife, I'd try to drill and tap the backspacer, rather than shorten the screws. Barring that, I'd drill shallow relief holes for the screws so no screw shortening would be necessary.

Drilling holes, a little bigger than the outer diameter of the screws, yes that is also an option, I thought of.
Tapping the holes, no. In this case, it most likely would work, but in general you don't want "continuous" threads in two plates, that rest on another. Thats not the way screws are intended to work.
Without the backspacer the screws also just are in the liner and every part of the screw, that is longer doesn't hold anything in place. So shortening the screws ist just the easiest and fastest way for me. Of course these screws are then custom to this specific Manix 2. But that's something I could live with.

[Senfkarte]

Tapping the holes, no. In this case, it most likely would work, but in general you don't want "continuous" threads in two plates, that rest on another. Thats not the way screws are intended to work.
Without the backspacer the screws also just are in the liner and every part of the screw, that is longer doesn't hold anything in place. So shortening the screws ist just the easiest and fastest way for me. Of course these screws are then custom to this specific Manix 2. But that's something I could live with.

Just to add, my collection of imperial tools is pretty limited. I think the screws that come in Golden made Spydercos all are imperial? Taichung uses metric ones? For the other factories, I have no idea.

[Mrj]

Converted my Rex 45 LW to screwed-together construction:
5F96AD59-E1FA-48AA-9BF9-7AF4DE48D854.jpeg
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... t-20547888

Where did you get the screws and barrels from?

[Giygas]

Converted my Rex 45 LW to screwed-together construction:
5F96AD59-E1FA-48AA-9BF9-7AF4DE48D854.jpeg
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... t-20547888

Where did you get the screws and barrels from?

I've used these a few times:

https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/125-pivo ... p-471.html

[attila]

Converted my Rex 45 LW to screwed-together construction:
5F96AD59-E1FA-48AA-9BF9-7AF4DE48D854.jpeg
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... t-20547888

Where did you get the screws and barrels from?

This is what I purchased:
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

[Mrj]

Converted my Rex 45 LW to screwed-together construction:
5F96AD59-E1FA-48AA-9BF9-7AF4DE48D854.jpeg
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... t-20547888

Where did you get the screws and barrels from?

This is what I purchased:
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html

Thanks guys

[MrRaptor63]

Started with 2 well used/poorly maintained donors. Between original, new and other donor parts the below results are now part of my carry rotation and the smoothest open/close actioned Spydercos I own.

Top one:
Black Skeletonized liners REC Exclusive Avocado - Donor
RGT Python scales "drilled for left hand carry" - New
Flytainium ball cage, ceramic ball with light weight spring - New
Blade, clip, screws and other hardware - Original

Bottom One:
Black liners, screws and other hardware - Original
Scales REC Exclusive Avocado - Donor
Flytainium ball cage, ceramic ball with light weight spring - New
Blade - Donor
Clip - MetonBoss Black Zirconium REPTILIAN Spidy - New

[kriezek]

Ya'll need to get some captains of crush or something.

I've been using the Manix 2 & XL since the month they released. Had some pikals too.

I have never handled a CBBL that took more than a single thumb to unlock.

Here's closing my M4 my usual way and also swi ging it shut like a cool kid:

https://streamja.com/Qo3gV

I see this complaint a the time and I don't get it at all. I've had over 30 CBBL's in my possession over the years and never had one take two fingers, much less two hands.

Just joined this thread and been reading through it for some tips of wisdom when I saw this and had to reply.

Under normal circumstances, I would agree with you Vivi. But some of us have arthritis which heavily impacts how we can operate our knives and also which knives work best for us.

Due to these changes, I have been on the hunt for a new Spyderco grail knife. My previous grail was an original Stretch in ZDP-189 completely unmodded that I carried for almost 10 years. It is a great EDC and fits my hand well. But I can't close back locks one handed now. So I have been trying several different lock types including the one on the Manix.

While I like how easy it is to open, and my Stormtrooper is drop shut smooth, pulling the button is difficult due to the pain in my thumb. After reading this thread, I am going to work the spring some more to see if that loosens it up. If not, I will move to a medium spring.

I'm glad I read this thread because it may just help solve my problem.