CTS-XHP corrosion
CTS-XHP corrosion
Hello, After taking my Chaparral out of my pocket I realized that it had gray stains (not like rust), there is some humidity where I live and I had to clean it since it had small drops of humidity, I have only been using it for 1 week and this is happening! I thought CTS-XHP was corrosion resistant. What I can do? Should I worry?
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
It is corrosion resistant, however it is not corrosion proof. The grey stain is likely what is commonly referred to as patina. Overtime it will build up and darken the blade unevenly. To clean this off you will need to use something like Flitz and a clean soft cloth. Be careful of the edge, of course.
Some people prefer the look of a blade with patina.
Some people prefer the look of a blade with patina.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
Friends call me Jim. As do my foes.
M.N.O.S.D. 0001
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Patina
Corrosion
1 cool. 1 bad
Corrosion
1 cool. 1 bad
- Jeff
May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
my xhp manix has lived in hawaii, florida, and the coastal bogs of virginia and i've never had any patina on my blade. post pictures so we can see what you're talking about. i've never seen patina on xhp or heard of anyone else having issues with it.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
If you’re cutting through tape it could be some adhesive residue as well.
- bearfacedkiller
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Your capacity to over think things is impressive.
-Darby
sal wrote:Knife afi's are pretty far out, steel junky's more so, but "edge junky's" are just nuts. :p
SpyderEdgeForever wrote: Also, do you think a kangaroo would eat a bowl of spagetti with sauce if someone offered it to them?
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Do a search if you want
viewtopic.php?t=76212
It’s a knife use it , keep it sharp, don’t abuse it, or buy some box cutter and extra blades
This is probably your best choice, unless you are a trolling kinda guy
viewtopic.php?t=76212
It’s a knife use it , keep it sharp, don’t abuse it, or buy some box cutter and extra blades
This is probably your best choice, unless you are a trolling kinda guy
“”Think of an edge as a living thing that comes and goes, born, get's old, is reborn.””
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
SAL :spyder:
“ The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men”
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Return it and buy a Cold Steel.
- Manixguy@1994
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Ok …… How about posting a picture of this phenomenon ? I actually live in a humid state never have seen on my blade what you are referring to . Sometimes pictures speak louder than words . MG2
MNOSD 0002 / Do more than is required of you . Patton
Nothing makes earth so spacious as to have friends at a distance; they make the latitudes and longitudes.
Henry David Thoreau
Nothing makes earth so spacious as to have friends at a distance; they make the latitudes and longitudes.
Henry David Thoreau
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
I'd never heard of xhp patina either, but this person got some on their Techno
viewtopic.php?t=76212
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
He would have to actually own a Chaparral to post a picture of it.Manixguy@1994 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 4:49 pmOk …… How about posting a picture of this phenomenon ? I actually live in a humid state never have seen on my blade what you are referring to . Sometimes pictures speak louder than words . MG2
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
I don't know if humidity has even patina my K390. Meat or acidic foods, yes. I just cut into some steak packaging to grill tonight and already have more blue on the K390.
I have trimmed meat with my old Chaparral and never got a hint of patina.
Need pictures!
I have trimmed meat with my old Chaparral and never got a hint of patina.
Need pictures!
- Jeff
May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
- kennethsime
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
Lo siento Damian, el cuchillo es basura ahora. Será mejor que me lo envíes aquí en California. Incluso pagaré el barco!damiand wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 3:38 pmHello, After taking my Chaparral out of my pocket I realized that it had gray stains (not like rust), there is some humidity where I live and I had to clean it since it had small drops of humidity, I have only been using it for 1 week and this is happening! I thought CTS-XHP was corrosion resistant. What I can do? Should I worry?
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
- Deadboxhero
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
It's not unusual for xhp to be
more reactive.
Most of the chromium is locked up in carbides.
more reactive.
Most of the chromium is locked up in carbides.
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
I whole heartedly agree. Sounds like a Milwaukee button lock utility knife and a 50 pack of blades is in order here…
- Shannon
MNOSD 0006
MNOSD 0006
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
No, you don´t have to worry (no offense, but considering all your threads so far I guess at least when it comes to knives you generally should shift your approach massively from "being worried" to "just enjoying" - I mean this as an honest, friendly advice )damiand wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 3:38 pmHello, After taking my Chaparral out of my pocket I realized that it had gray stains (not like rust), there is some humidity where I live and I had to clean it since it had small drops of humidity, I have only been using it for 1 week and this is happening! I thought CTS-XHP was corrosion resistant. What I can do? Should I worry?
"Corrosion resistant" does not mean "totally corrosion proof".
The "stains", or patina or whatever won´t hurt the performance of your Chap at all. Not even red rust spots would.
And since I know that you rather frequently use and sharpen the knife: On the actual EDGE there will be no "corrosion" going on
If you don´t use the knife for a long time and keep it in a more humid environment: It could happen that the edge degrades a bit from "corrosion" and the knife looses sharpness. But some passes on the sharpmaker will perfectly remedy that.
I carried my Chap frequently iwb when going on sweaty runs, used it in rain and mud and so on: No practical problems at all.
If you don´t like the stains:
- You could lightly oil the blade or use apply some other protective layer ( I never do on any Spyderco, so I am not an expert on this)
- Or get a SALT knife. For your line of work a Salt 2 wharncliffe (I´d go SE, but PE should work great too) would be a perfect choice imho
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- Jim Malone
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Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
It's corrosion. You should sell your knife and buy something made out of Titanium 6AL-4V to be precise. Ti-6Al-4V (UNS designation R56400), also sometimes called TC4, Ti64,[1] or ASTM Grade 5, is an alpha-beta titanium alloy with a high specific strength and excellent corrosion resistance. It is one of the most commonly used titanium alloys and is applied in a wide range of applications where low density and excellent corrosion resistance are necessary.
I recommend the Microtech Jagdkommando!
I recommend the Microtech Jagdkommando!
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
I have trouble getting patina on my Maxamet Sage and I live in a swamp. My four XHP blades are still like new. I wouldn't worry either way, patina is your friend and it looks cool.
Military/PM2/P3 Native Chief/Native GB2 DF2 PITS Chaparral Tasman Salt 2 SE Caribbean Sheepfoot SE SpydieChef Swayback Manix2 Sage 1 SSS Stretch 2 XL G10
Re: CTS-XHP corrosion
How come I shouldn't worry about red spots? I've heard red spots are undeniable signs of corrosion. And you have to clean them ASAP. As they will continue to corrode the metal. For a blade that needs to last 10 years, this is vital. Considering the humid conditions, is it reasonable to clean my blade every 12-24 hours? And one more question: what steel are the threads made of? Since every time I wash my knife, I could be rusting the threads inside. Or should I just wash the blade? Are threads corrosion-resistant? All those metallic things that make the mechanism work? Are they corrosion resistant? If they corrode, I think there are no spare parts.Wartstein wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 2:22 amNo, you don´t have to worry (no offense, but considering all your threads so far I guess at least when it comes to knives you generally should shift your approach massively from "being worried" to "just enjoying" - I mean this as an honest, friendly advice )damiand wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 3:38 pmHello, After taking my Chaparral out of my pocket I realized that it had gray stains (not like rust), there is some humidity where I live and I had to clean it since it had small drops of humidity, I have only been using it for 1 week and this is happening! I thought CTS-XHP was corrosion resistant. What I can do? Should I worry?
"Corrosion resistant" does not mean "totally corrosion proof".
The "stains", or patina or whatever won´t hurt the performance of your Chap at all. Not even red rust spots would.
And since I know that you rather frequently use and sharpen the knife: On the actual EDGE there will be no "corrosion" going on
If you don´t use the knife for a long time and keep it in a more humid environment: It could happen that the edge degrades a bit from "corrosion" and the knife looses sharpness. But some passes on the sharpmaker will perfectly remedy that.
I carried my Chap frequently iwb when going on sweaty runs, used it in rain and mud and so on: No practical problems at all.
If you don´t like the stains:
- You could lightly oil the blade or use apply some other protective layer ( I never do on any Spyderco, so I am not an expert on this)
- Or get a SALT knife. For your line of work a Salt 2 wharncliffe (I´d go SE, but PE should work great too) would be a perfect choice imho