RIT dye experiences?

[awa54]

I have a couple questions (undoubtedly touched on in one of the many RIT themed threads, but I'm too lazy to read *all* those threads in search of two answers...) regarding techniques for dying FRN scales:

First off, I'm guessing that the "DyeMore" formula for synthetics is more durable than the standard "all purpose" version?

Second, how much are Zome blotches sublimated/covered when over-dyeing?

I'm hoping to dye my DLT red/black Dragonfly a fairly dark shade of purple and was just wondering what to expect.

TIA to all you RIT experts!

[MFlovejp]

I've never used the other formula that you describe; I've found that the standard formula is long lasting and durable. As far as the dye job you're describing, I'll say that it'll be very easy to dye too dark and completely obscure your zome marks. I have learned that you should pull the scales from the dye much earlier than you think you need too. You can always give it another dip to darken, but it's harder to take away dye that's already soaked in. I've got a couple of unintentionally black knives to back up my advice, and a couple that turned out just right. Good luck and have fun.

[Henry_P]

Yes I would use the dyemore version as it does work better and easier to use.

I’ve only tried dyeing light colors darker. I heard that it doesn’t work well if trying to make colors lighter. So you may still be able to see the black spots on the zome pattern.

[on_the_edge]

Dyemore is better than the regular RIT dye in my experience. Check early and check often. Make sure the scales are clean beforehand (Simple Green or even rubbing alcohol works fine) and handle clean scales wearing gloves to keep the oils and dirt off the scales. You don't have to remove the scales or disassemble the knife, but again in my experience, you achieve a better result when you do. Also keep the water/RIT dye mixture lightly boiling while you dip the knife. That temperature will not negatively effect G10, FRN, or FRCP scales and will get you a much better result than getting the water boiling, turning off the heat, and then dipping while the water cools. Also do not let the scales touch the bottom or sides of the dipping container. You have to actively manage your dipping and walking away for a minute or two is a bad idea.

I have never dyed red & black Zome handles, but I think it will be very hard or impossible to hide the black splotches short of going to a stark black color on the entire scales. That said, you could also dip "on a gradient", meaning submerge part of or the whole scale and then slowly remove both at the same time and in the same way to give a lighter look on the end that was first removed from the dye and a darker look on the end that was last removed from the dye. Some have also covered a portion of the scales, with nail polish to keep the original color of what is under the nail polish, but given the texture of the scales, it is difficult at best to do a decent job doing it this way.

I know there is way more info here than you were asking for. Hopefully it will be helpful to someone. Good luck.

[Evil D]

DyeMore definitely seems to work better for G10, I haven't tried it on FRN but I'd assume similar results. I can't say on Zome as I don't have any but it should dye like anything else.

[lilshaver]

Like the others I suspect you will still be able to see the black spots because they are darker than your dye color. And as far as the regular dye wearing off I don't think so since it penetrates the material and is not just on the surface.

[ZrowsN1s]

Dyemore is what you want. It is my understanding you can only dye things darker than original.

[archangel]

It would be possible to rit dye the ivory G10 scales of the upcoming Urban Damasteel sprint to a darker tone that's more in tune with the darker blade, right?

[JSumm]

This is my DLT Exclusive Endela. I used the regular formula because I could not find the synthetic. It has held up just fine.

Different lights. It is more purple in real life, but dark purple. Zome can still be seen but very muted. This was with the Royal Blue.




Then I got tired of that and went all black.

[tonijedi]

It would be possible to rit dye the ivory G10 scales of the upcoming Urban Damasteel sprint to a darker tone that's more in tune with the darker blade, right?

Definitely. I've only dyed FRN myself, but there are plenty of videos on YouTube about dying G10.

The dye does wear off, but it can be redone.

[Manixguy@1994]

This is my DLT Exclusive Endela. I used the regular formula because I could not find the synthetic. It has held up just fine.

Different lights. It is more purple in real life, but dark purple. Zome can still be seen but very muted. This was with the Royal Blue.




Then I got tired of that and went all black.

Outstanding ! Endela has a nice understated look .MG2

[Manixguy@1994]

I have thought about doing a dye job , just not sure what color would work best starting with black frn scales .
MG2

[archangel]

Well, I hope I can manage to transform the rather bright ivory G10 into something a good bit darker, with spots just like you guys have them on your FRN scales. I figure this might look pretty cool with the damascus patterns of the blade...

What do you think?

[JSumm]

Well, I hope I can manage to transform the rather bright ivory G10 into something a good bit darker, with spots just like you guys have them on your FRN scales. I figure this might look pretty cool with the damascus patterns of the blade...

What do you think?

Are you wanting to create your own Zome like pattern? If so, I would paint on the black dye. Very little. Let it dry then do the dye bath with a lighter color.

[araneae]

I've done a bit of dyeing and I'll tell you the best you can likely hope for is a deep wine/burgundy with a slight hint of purple. Starting with a fairly deep red you probably just want to use blue dye and cross your fingers.

Also, as that is the dragonfly that got away from me, it hurts my heart a little to hear it's being dyed.

[tonijedi]

I have thought about doing a dye job , just not sure what color would work best starting with black frn scales .
MG2

I'd say nine. I think it will be impossible to dye an original black FRN to another color.

[Manixguy@1994]

I have thought about doing a dye job , just not sure what color would work best starting with black frn scales .
MG2

I'd say nine. I think it will be impossible to dye an original black FRN to another color.

Thank you ! I wasn’t quite sure if it was possible. I’ve never attempted a dye project , and need to check past posts for more information if I want to do a dye on another color . Much appreciated, MG2

[JRinFL]

I have a couple questions (undoubtedly touched on in one of the many RIT themed threads, but I'm too lazy to read *all* those threads in search of two answers...) regarding techniques for dying FRN scales:

First off, I'm guessing that the "DyeMore" formula for synthetics is more durable than the standard "all purpose" version?

Second, how much are Zome blotches sublimated/covered when over-dyeing?

I'm hoping to dye my DLT red/black Dragonfly a fairly dark shade of purple and was just wondering what to expect.

TIA to all you RIT experts!

I wonder if a scale swap with someone who has a lighter FRN version might be better? It’s much easier to dye a lighter color then it is to try and cover the some blotches.

[tonijedi]

I have thought about doing a dye job , just not sure what color would work best starting with black frn scales .
MG2

I've done some dye jobs, all on yellow salts.
I plan on doing a grey one on the upcoming MagnaCut Native Salt, if I'm able to get it.
I'd say nine. I think it will be impossible to dye an original black FRN to another color.

Thank you ! I wasn’t quite sure if it was possible. I’ve never attempted a dye project , and need to check past posts for more information if I want to do a dye on another color . Much appreciated, MG2

[resonanzmacher]

OK, if you want my two cents? Don't use Dyemore. It continues to bleed color over time. They sell a fixative for it but it doesn't work very well on solid items -- it's intended for clothing dyeing, and I am sure it works just fine for that, but when it comes to fixing dye that's penetrated below the surface of G-10 it just doesn't do the job. Oil and lube accentuates the bleed out, it makes it easier for Dyemore pigments to slip free of the resin matrix and end up staining your pocket or hand or storage. How do I know? I've dyed dozens of G-10 and FRN knives with both regular all purpose dye and Dyemore, is how.

Use the all purpose dye even though you need it at a simmer before it will really work on G-10. it will take longer to penetrate the substrate.... but once it's set up in the substrate and you give it a good alcohol rinse and dry and you work the scales with an oiled cloth for a bit, you don't get any dye bleed. You're good to go. It sets up stronger.

One other thing to keep in mind is not all G-10 is created equally. Some of the resins people use to make it are easier to dye than others. Take 'jade' G-10 -- get a jade knife from CJRB and the scales will dye fast. Get the jade G-10 Mule handles from Halpern? Yeah, you'll be at the stove for over an hour before you see what you need to see.