Best steel for these machetes

[SpydieFlicker]

I have been thinking about the steel I should use if I ever make a machete, and I have come down to either 1095, CPM 3V, or 80crv2. I do not know that much about steel, so I would really appreciate it if some of you who are more knowledgeable about steel gave me your opinion on which steel I should use.
I would do some light chopping, batoning and feathersticking, but I dont really mind if the steel loses it´s edge fast.

These are the 2 machetes I would make.

[JRinFL]

I'm not a knife maker, but from my reading something in the 10XX ranger of steels would be best. So 1075, 1095, etc. I also read that the temper is most important for machetes.
Now, if you are making a large chopper with thicker stock, I'd go with 3V or 80crv2 which are used by many makers.

[TomAiello]

Have you looked at CPM 1v?

I think of the steels you are considering, I'd go with 80crv2.

I'm not sure 1095 is the best 10XX steel for a machete.

[MacLaren]

I would agree with Tom
Or choose 1V
Bark River makes a machete with 1V that people really like
Of course, I'm sure Ankerson could advise as what would be the best.

[JD Spydo]

This is a question I've had in the back of my head for some time. Because blade steel for high impact tools like machetes, Axes, hatchets and various woodworking tools have a completely different set of properties than steels you would use in knives. The heat treatments are truly a different animal as well.

In some respects steels for high impact tools and striking tools is far more critical than in most knife blades. I've heard that S7 is an all around ideal steel for axes and hatchets but I'm sure that there would be mores. It would be interesting to know which steels most of the top companies use in those types of tools.

Now I would think that Machetes would have more tolerance than an ax would? Because the largest percentage of uses of a machete are done on green vegetation for the most part.

[Naperville]

The best thing to do would be to make one blade, in as many different steels as you can and test them.

A blade under 15 inches could be made from any of the steels that you propose.

[The Mastiff]

The simple medium high carbon steels like 1065 or 1070 seem to do pretty well for machetes. Don't waste money on expensive alloys for them. Likewise too thick steel works against you too.

:)

[TomAiello]

I like S7 for impact tools a lot.

Are these the first machetes that you are making?

I cut my first blades from AEB-L and 80CRv2 because they were reasonable steels that were inexpensive, and I'm still in the steep part of the learning curve--I started in August and have made about 10 blades now. I'm nowhere near feeling proficient enough to spend the money on really good steels (or handle materials, or whatever) at this point.

I haven't worked with 3v, but I do own a Machete in 3v and it's a beast. Holds up really well to abuse and still has better edge holding than any other machete I've owned. I have a big chopper in S7 that doesn't do as well--but 3v is expensive stuff.

[MacLaren]

The simple medium high carbon steels like 1065 or 1070 seem to do pretty well for machetes. Don't waste money on expensive alloys for them. Likewise too thick steel works against you too.

:)

What about 1V?
Only reason I mentioned it was because Bark River used it and people seemed to like it.
I agree with what you said though.
I have a condor baryonx or however its spelled.
It's thin with 1075 and it is amazing...

[The Mastiff]

I don't have experience with it personally. One knifemaker told me it is strong and tough and in comparison to other steels in that class pretty wear resistant. He also stated it was prone to work hardening and breakage over time at the edge more than the medium carbon steels mostly used in machetes. That was his opinion and I have not heard of such breakage on those Bark River machetes. I know very little about them in fact and have seen none in person.

[The Mastiff]

With any machete thin enough to be used like they are supposed to be used there will be edge damage occasionally. With simple carbon steels it takes very little time to fix the edge with a simple file. I'm not sure that's possible with the higher wear steels.

[SpydieFlicker]

Thanks everyone for replying! I will probably end up using a simple carbon steel, most likely 1/8" or 1/4" thick 1075. I have no experience in knife making, but when I start to make knives, the parang I drew will be one of the first ones I make.

[M Sea]

This forum is full of knowledge, I learned a lot from this thread and appreciate all of you guys sharing your brains. I don't know anything about knife manufacturing but I have some fixed blades in 1095 and 3V. The 1095 is great but it rusts easier than the 3V. Are you planning on using your blades around saltwater?

[Mike Slayer]

I have been thinking about the steel I should use if I ever make a machete, and I have come down to either 1095, CPM 3V, or 80crv2. I do not know that much about steel, so I would really appreciate it if some of you who are more knowledgeable about steel gave me your opinion on which steel I should use.
I would do some light chopping, batoning and feathersticking, but I dont really mind if the steel loses it´s edge fast.

These are the 2 machetes I would make.

I have been using machetes in North Carolina since I was a boy. I love machetes and I have some modern machetes and some vintage collins machetes and such. I am also a aspiring knifemaker since a good friend was getting out of knifemaking and he gave me a good deal on his equipment and materials.

One of them main things I want to make and be known for are custom machetes that perform like a machete should. I have a few designs and ideas all based on making the machete perform it's best while being lively and comfortable in the hand. I have researched and looked into this subject a great deal on steel choice. Remember heat treat and geometry are in my opinion more important. A lot of companies and people especially get the geometry wrong compared to machetes that are older than most of use. Making a machete lively in the hand even a longer machete can be done. It's an amazing thing when you use a machete like that. The handle on a machete is even more crucial to get right especially on longer machetes.

If you get one thing wrong in the design and execution the entire machete is ruined. I would recommend making prototypes from cheap scrap or mild steel first. That will give you a good feel of the design. Then I would make some functional prototypes from something like 1075 because it's cheap and easy to find in the right thickness and sizes.

Somebody mentioned the Bark River Machete in CPM-1v. I have one myself but it doesn't get used much after testing it and using it for awhile. The reason is the handle. The handle kills the entire machete for me because it's too small since it's a knife handle on the machete which isn't the best idea. The height of the handle is too short for a machete handle. Also it's slightly too thin as well. I can't even use it for a solid minute before my hand start's cramping badly making the machete dangerous to use. The blade design and execution are amazing but the handle kills it. The blade has really good geometry and a super tough steel with a good heat treat.

All the steel's you mentioned would work for a machete so you have to really research the pros and cons of each steel. If these are just for yourself then some cons don't matter as much. One con I don't mind with steels like CPM-3v and CPM-1v are price. Another con for CPM-1v is availability in the correct thickness. I generally prefer 1075 over 1095 for the add toughness since I have had a few issues with machetes in 1095 on certain types of wood. That might be able to be corrected with a modified heat treat but I am not sure on that one. Personally I have settled on 1075, CPM-3v or CPM-1v if I can get it. 1075 and CPM-1v would be my go too steels with CPM-3v if somebody else wants more edge retention. CPM-1v seems holds an edge similar to A2 tool steel yet has toughness getting closer to S7. The edge holding and toughness in the same steel like CPM-1v in a machete is amazing to me. I beat the **** out of my Bark River Machete. I used it on bamboo, Fatwood/lighter knot, seasoned hickory and oak yet it kept going without edge damage of any kind. The edge it held after all that still felt sharp but not shaving sharp when other steels like 1075 or 1095 would of felt dull to the touch.

I am not a expert in metallurgy, design, geometry or heat treat but I would considered myself an experienced machete user with over 27 years of slinging a machete for different things and jobs. In that time I have learned what machetes I like and the ones I don't so I studied them to figure out in detail what worked for me and what didn't. Don't be afraid to experiment and try different things. The quest for your perfect machete I hope is fun as mine has been so far. I think I am getting really close to mine so when I make I will share pictures with everybody. Making it from CPM-1v would be perfect for me then it will be time to push it to the limits so I can see what it will take and won't take.

Not sure what else I can add but if I can help in anyway I will be glad to help in the future especially when I get my shop set up in the spring.

[Mike Slayer]

I think Spyderco should make a machete. How about it Sal? A Spyderco machete would be epic.

[MacLaren]

I have been thinking about the steel I should use if I ever make a machete, and I have come down to either 1095, CPM 3V, or 80crv2. I do not know that much about steel, so I would really appreciate it if some of you who are more knowledgeable about steel gave me your opinion on which steel I should use.
I would do some light chopping, batoning and feathersticking, but I dont really mind if the steel loses it´s edge fast.

These are the 2 machetes I would make.

I have been using machetes in North Carolina since I was a boy. I love machetes and I have some modern machetes and some vintage collins machetes and such. I am also a aspiring knifemaker since a good friend was getting out of knifemaking and he gave me a good deal on his equipment and materials.

One of them main things I want to make and be known for are custom machetes that perform like a machete should. I have a few designs and ideas all based on making the machete perform it's best while being lively and comfortable in the hand. I have researched and looked into this subject a great deal on steel choice. Remember heat treat and geometry are in my opinion more important. A lot of companies and people especially get the geometry wrong compared to machetes that are older than most of use. Making a machete lively in the hand even a longer machete can be done. It's an amazing thing when you use a machete like that. The handle on a machete is even more crucial to get right especially on longer machetes.

If you get one thing wrong in the design and execution the entire machete is ruined. I would recommend making prototypes from cheap scrap or mild steel first. That will give you a good feel of the design. Then I would make some functional prototypes from something like 1075 because it's cheap and easy to find in the right thickness and sizes.

Somebody mentioned the Bark River Machete in CPM-1v. I have one myself but it doesn't get used much after testing it and using it for awhile. The reason is the handle. The handle kills the entire machete for me because it's too small since it's a knife handle on the machete which isn't the best idea. The height of the handle is too short for a machete handle. Also it's slightly too thin as well. I can't even use it for a solid minute before my hand start's cramping badly making the machete dangerous to use. The blade design and execution are amazing but the handle kills it. The blade has really good geometry and a super tough steel with a good heat treat.

All the steel's you mentioned would work for a machete so you have to really research the pros and cons of each steel. If these are just for yourself then some cons don't matter as much. One con I don't mind with steels like CPM-3v and CPM-1v are price. Another con for CPM-1v is availability in the correct thickness. I generally prefer 1075 over 1095 for the add toughness since I have had a few issues with machetes in 1095 on certain types of wood. That might be able to be corrected with a modified heat treat but I am not sure on that one. Personally I have settled on 1075, CPM-3v or CPM-1v if I can get it. 1075 and CPM-1v would be my go too steels with CPM-3v if somebody else wants more edge retention. CPM-1v seems holds an edge similar to A2 tool steel yet has toughness getting closer to S7. The edge holding and toughness in the same steel like CPM-1v in a machete is amazing to me. I beat the **** out of my Bark River Machete. I used it on bamboo, Fatwood/lighter knot, seasoned hickory and oak yet it kept going without edge damage of any kind. The edge it held after all that still felt sharp but not shaving sharp when other steels like 1075 or 1095 would of felt dull to the touch.

I am not a expert in metallurgy, design, geometry or heat treat but I would considered myself an experienced machete user with over 27 years of slinging a machete for different things and jobs. In that time I have learned what machetes I like and the ones I don't so I studied them to figure out in detail what worked for me and what didn't. Don't be afraid to experiment and try different things. The quest for your perfect machete I hope is fun as mine has been so far. I think I am getting really close to mine so when I make I will share pictures with everybody. Making it from CPM-1v would be perfect for me then it will be time to push it to the limits so I can see what it will take and won't take.

Not sure what else I can add but if I can help in anyway I will be glad to help in the future especially when I get my shop set up in the spring.

Nice post Mike.
I'm the one that mentioned Bark River and CPM-1V
Also, from North Carolina too :cool:
Thats really interesting about the handle on the Bark River. You should tell Mike about it on the Bark River FB page. He's a good guy and will listen.
Thanx again man.

[Mike Slayer]

Nice post Mike.
I'm the one that mentioned Bark River and CPM-1V
Also, from North Carolina too :cool:
Thats really interesting about the handle on the Bark River. You should tell Mike about it on the Bark River FB page. He's a good guy and will listen.
Thanx again man.

After I first got it I did talk to them about it. I mainly talked to Mike's Son Jim about it and from the looks of it I think it basically fell on deaf ears. I love the machete but the handle kills it for me. I do have a plan to fix that so I can add a better suited handle to the blade while making it look good at the same time. It would also add more handle length at the same time which will make it a beast of a compact machete.

[MacLaren]

Nice post Mike.
I'm the one that mentioned Bark River and CPM-1V
Also, from North Carolina too :cool:
Thats really interesting about the handle on the Bark River. You should tell Mike about it on the Bark River FB page. He's a good guy and will listen.
Thanx again man.

After I first got it I did talk to them about it. I mainly talked to Mike's Son Jim about it and from the looks of it I think it basically fell on deaf ears. I love the machete but the handle kills it for me. I do have a plan to fix that so I can add a better suited handle to the blade while making it look good at the same time. It would also add more handle length at the same time which will make it a beast of a compact machete.

Cool. Keep us posted if ya don't mind.

[Mike Slayer]

Cool. Keep us posted if ya don't mind.

I will do that for sure. If you ever find your self near the coast in NC let me know. Maybe we could meet up to talk Spyderco's and Machete's. If I am up and running with my knife shop at the time you are more than welcome to stop by.

[MacLaren]

Cool. Keep us posted if ya don't mind.

I will do that for sure. If you ever find your self near the coast in NC let me know. Maybe we could meet up to talk Spyderco's and Machete's. If I am up and running with my knife shop at the time you are more than welcome to stop by.

Sounds good!!
Same goes if your in the mountains!