Spyderco Forums

Good Morning Everyone, Happy Sunday!

So a little background information, on Christmas I gifted my bestfriend a s110v manix 2 lighweight, which we all know to be a phenomenal knife.
It didn't take long for my friend and his new blade to bond becoming his faithful work companion. However, when I went to go visit him recently..
he showed me that the blade has a couple of different chips on the edge (they do not exceed passed the bevel line, if that's what you would call it).
Turns out he used it to open a can (probably multiple), and I'm assuming the force along with some twisting motions caused the wear.

It does look repairable, but I am wondering from others with experience how efficient is the Sharpmaker in taking out chips? I know many have said that the SM is more for touch ups than reprofiling (forumites prefer Wicked Edge, KME or other methods)... but I do have a set of brand new diamond stones for the Sharpmaker and I'm wondering if those would help do the trick? My skills as a sharpener are novice and this would be my first attempt at fixing something like this. All my other sharpening experience has been mostly maintaining an edge as it starts to get dull, and most chips I dealt with were pretty small in comparison.

I will try to get him to lend me his manix so I can upload some photos here, but the chips missing vary from small to medium size all along the edge. I appreciate your guy's input and hope you all make today a great one.

He must have been hungry!

Pelagic wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 10, 2019 12:10 pm

He must have been hungry!

Hahaha,

He told me he was cooking French Onion soup for his staff, and he had to open up a lot of Campbell soup cans.

I'd buy him a few can openers. Much cheaper than replacing a Manix

As far as the chips go I'd use a coarse bench stone if you have one.

Diamond rods help but will also need much time.

Because it's a user i would use cheap diamonds to remove the chips.
Then sharpmaker (diamond) rods for given back an good edge.

I would let him do the work.
So he takesmore care of his tools in the future.

This seems to be the way it tends to go when gifting our non knife nerd friends knives ... we become responsible for keeping the knife sharp and maintaining it. :rolleyes:

Personally, if I was in your shoes I’d tell my friend he was a dunce and I didn’t gift him a $200 knife to open tins of soup with. :eek:

S110V doesn’t like being ground so it will be a long and uphill battle to bring it back with a SharpMaker. I’d give him $20 and tell him to send it to Spyderco or someone else to have it resharpened. :)

Diamond rods will do it. But be prepared to spend a few hours spread out over a few days to reprofile an entire bevel to remove chips. Maybe one of these days they'll make an extra coarse stone for the sharpmaker. Free hand with an extra corse diamond stone might be your fastest way.

Bloke wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 10, 2019 1:54 pm

I’d give him $20 and tell him to send it to Spyderco or someone else to have it resharpened. :)

I’d give him a swift kick in the keister and tell him to send it in to be sharpened on his own dime. Opening cans with a pocket knife is just daft.

Woodpuppy wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 10, 2019 6:35 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 10, 2019 1:54 pm

I’d give him $20 and tell him to send it to Spyderco or someone else to have it resharpened. :)

I’d give him a swift kick in the keister and tell him to send it in to be sharpened on his own dime. Opening cans with a pocket knife is just daft.

Ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha, ah, hahaha! :) :cool:

Lesson learned, gift ‘lesser’ steels to non knife folk. I cringe everytime my brother pulls out his knife and says “can you fix this?”

On the upside, he’s not going to care what his edge looks like so I’d hit it hard and fast with a course benchstone until you remove the chips, then put a 40 degree sharpmaker edge on it.

100 or 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a smooth piece of tile or glass will make short work of small chips. Just go edge leading, not trailing.

I think it comes from most people not being able to sharpen. But I find a fair amount of knife carries, like to cary K.S.O.'s (knife shaped objects) to poke and pry with more than cut. When they do cut something it's soley with the geometry of the blade, not a sharp edge. I've seen people amazed at my sharp knife that can cut paper :rolleyes:

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:17 am

I think it comes from most people not being able to sharpen. But I find a fair amount of knife carries, like to cary K.S.O.'s (knife shaped objects) to poke and pry with more than cut. When they do cut something it's soley with the geometry of the blade, not a sharp edge. I've seen people amazed at my sharp knife that can cut paper :rolleyes:

Good observation, I agree

I snickered at "buffing" :D

$20 to let Spyderco handle chips would be a bargain if they're anything more than tiny nicks.

That said: I agree about getting something less expensive for the heavy work. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they usually have some diamond stones in a three pack. Amazon has a bunch of cheap diamonds now. Old-school coarse-grit abrasives are good too, and sandpaper will do the job.

The key (imo) is:
1: don't expect a diamond stone/plate to work well after repairing a knife like this. You'll probably be better off bearing down to get faster cutting and thus knock off a bunch of the abrasive rather than trying to maximize the life of the diamonds, unless you're using something expensive like your Spyderco stones or a DMT plate.

2: tape the blade thoroughly to minimize scratches.

3: bring the whole edge down to the same level by cutting into the stone before you start re-setting. That way you won't have a section of edge that's convincing you to stop before the rest of the job is finished.

Re-set the bevel with a sacrificial stone just until you get a new burr, then take it to the diamonds/med/fine sharpmaker stones.

Some guys have good success attaching diemakers polishing stones to the sharpmaker rods for an angle guide, and I've taped some cheap diamond plates on in the same way, but for rough work like this you'll want to have the cheap coarse plate somewhere extra secure and stable so you can just go to town.