Don't have any of these. So for what it's worth from my working on full and half Titanium Militaries (5 total), and 3 K2 (and on other non-Spyderco frame-locks):
Centering problems on frame-locks usually show up as the lock pushes the blade to the other side. What I do:
1) assemble the knife lock up. Meaning put the non-lock side on the table, assemble and tighten the scale screws, tigthen the Pivot screw. Then put the blade and top washer on, then the lock side on with an open blade, screw in pivot first, and then scale screws away from the Pivot, meaning the one closest to the Pivot first. When I say tighten a screw, I mean "finger-tighten", don't go crazy (important for step 4). If you are lucky, in most cases, you are done. If not:
2) check the lanyard tube. Important that the lanyard tube is totally perpendicular to the scales, and not damaged. You can push and rotate the scales against each other to make sure.
3) Sometimes you have to adjust the Pivot from both sides. Tighten one side, and loosen the other and vice versa. When you are close to the right adjustment, you can see the blade move, depending on which Pivot screw you use.
4) Finally, if you don't add a backspacer (most after-market backspacers cause issues with Titanium scales), for the long blades, you can move them a bit by pressuring the knife in the middle in either direction. This is not bending the Ti scales, but moving the screws a little (that were only finger-tight in the first place).
5) I only tighten my Pivot screws until blade play disappears (tested on open knife with no lock pressure on the blade), no further.
Finally, when you are done, unscrew / loktite / screw each screw in the same sequence as you assembled the knife above. Loktite stops working when there is grease on the screws. Sometimes I put all the screws, Pivot, etc., in a glass of Alcohol for 10 minutes and assemble only after they are clean and have dried. Use tweezers for the screws, not your fingers if possible. You really only have 10min or so for the Loktite to settle, don't manipulate afterwards and let cure for 24 hours.
Now, generally this will work on 9 out of 10 knives for me. Sometimes it doesn't, because lanyard tube or something else is out of spec.
Also, realize that there is a risk: frame-locks should have been carefully adjusted in the factory (hopefully - not always apparent in new knives), to optimize the lock/tang seating. One of the knivemakers on BF (RJ Martin,
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how ... st-9163968) describes how this is done. After DIY frame-lock re-assembly this fine-adjustment might be gone, you could introduce lock stick, etc.
Hope this helps,
Roland.