Spyderco Forums

Hello everyone. I can't keep my para2 sharp. I am using a Lansky sharpening system. I carried a Leek for a long time and sharpen it the same way - that knife was always sharp much longer and I believe the steel on the Para is much better. I am able to achieve a very sharp edge on the Para, but once I open the tape on 3 or so shipping boxes, the knife will no longer cut anything. The edge quickly feels like a butter knife.

I emailed Spyderco right after I got the knife asking them what angle it is pre-sharpened to and what sharpening angle they recommend but they refused to just give me a straight answer on that so I have no idea what angle I should be using. I'm using the 20 degree setting on the Lansky.

Thanks.

Hi Kjav,

Welcome to our forum.

I would suggest a 30 degree inclusive angle. Any of our steels have no problem with that. Also the glue on tape often causes cutting issues.

sal

sal wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:14 am

Also the glue on tape often causes cutting issues.

sal

Ha! Something I’ve noticed in the past but never quite put two and two completely together. Thanks Sal!

sal wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:14 am

Hi Kjav,

Welcome to our forum.

I would suggest a 30 degree inclusive angle. Any of our steels have no problem with that. Also the glue on tape often causes cutting issues.

sal

Glue from the tape is the worse I hate that stuff. If this is what is fouling the blade keep some paper towels and rubbing alcohol on hand it will get rid of the evil tape goo. Is it my imagination or is that tape glue staying wet longer? Boxes I get from Amazon are miserable.

You sure it's not a clone?

Blueboost wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:45 am

You sure it's not a clone?

I was also going to question that. I cut through a lot of packaging tape at work as well. My M4/Rex45/M390/4V knives all get a little duller by the end of a day or two. Clean them up and touch them up and they are back to razors. Makes me wonder about the OP's knife. None of the Para 3 steel variations should dull THAT quickly.

It’s possible you’re creating a wire edge that appears sharp but rolls when used. I’m not familiar with that sharpener but make sure you are pushing abrasive towards the spine, not away from the spine, otherwise you can create a burr.

Please cover the edge with a sharpie. So you see what it is doing. Raise a burr on one side the flip to the other side and raise a burr again.
A cut into some wood to remove some burr and other stuff.
Strop the blade on something (newspaper, leather belt,...)

Use a coarse stone.
Try a benchstone. Here i tend to get quicker results.

Are you sure its a real Spyderco?

Burr/wire edge. I used a Lansky for years before moving on to better systems. Once you've apexed the edge, try making very light edge leading passes along the edge alternating sides. You can also increase the angle of the stones a bit by clamping the blade slightly further into the clamp and cheat your way into making a micro bevel.

Blueboost wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:45 am

You sure it's not a clone?

This is what I was thinking too. All my PM2's & Para 3's (including the base S30V versions) all keep their edge way longer than the 14C28N Leek I have.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:59 am

Burr/wire edge. I used a Lansky for years before moving on to better systems. Once you've apexed the edge, try making very light edge leading passes along the edge alternating sides. You can also increase the angle of the stones a bit by clamping the blade slightly further into the clamp and cheat your way into making a micro bevel.

^^^ great advice. Do a lot of these alternating passes with very light pressure when you finish. Stropping could also help a lot, but isn't mandatory. I really hope you didn't receive a clone.

Op I use a lansky as well but it does have one flaw. The angle changes depending on how deeply you attach it to the blade.
I think a sharpmaker is more consistent if used properly, and you can hone the blade.

Burr / wire edge


FK

I'd like to see a couple pics of the knife.

Kjav-
Get a loupe.
Look at the edge.
Look at it when you think it is sharp. Look at it when you think it has come dull.
The loupe will show you what is happening.
All else is conjecture.
Dee

sal wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:14 am

I would suggest a 30 degree inclusive angle. Any of our steels have no problem with that.

Do you recommend the same approach for any model with a secondary bevel?

Hi Dee,

Welcome to our forum.

Mahalo for the good advice.

sal

Robbob wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 05, 2018 6:42 am

sal wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:14 am

I would suggest a 30 degree inclusive angle. Any of our steels have no problem with that.

Do you recommend the same approach for any model with a secondary bevel?

Hi Robbob,

there are many opinions on this and mine is not necessarily the final answer, just what I do. I use a 30 degree on all of my Spyderco knives. though a 40 degree secondary bevel is probably stronger, I don't use one.

sal

There is alot of play in the slots on the lansky guided system, I've found that once you have apexed while holding the rods inward most part of the slots, start again with the highest grit stone you have on the outward most part of the slots removing the Burr. That has been the best way I can remove the Burr using the lansky while also creating a small microbevel

sal wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:53 am

Robbob wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 05, 2018 6:42 am

sal wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:14 am

I would suggest a 30 degree inclusive angle. Any of our steels have no problem with that.

Do you recommend the same approach for any model with a secondary bevel?

Hi Robbob,

there are many opinions on this and mine is not necessarily the final answer, just what I do. I use a 30 degree on all of my Spyderco knives. though a 40 degree secondary bevel is probably stronger, I don't use one.

sal

I recall you saying something similar before, but I'm glad you clarified.

Thanks, Sal.