Sal, Can we get CPM 15v?

[Deadboxhero]

Yes, very curious, Had 10v at 67rc in the kitchen for over a year, it's my wife's favorite knife and we have quite a kitchen knife collection from Hap40 to ZDP 189 so I liked that it stood out.

So with how well 10v was doing it's makes sense to turn the volume up so to speak especially with how well the modified HT protocol has been doing over the past year.

I've used a lot of steels but CPM 15v always brings me back. I like the aggression and "bite" you can feel at the edge with all those wonderful carbides bristling at the apex.

Great flavor to edge geek on.

The Real Question is, Will 15v work in the kitchen?

Oooh, I want to see how this pans out!

[Deadboxhero]

Very nice. Keep us posted.

sal

Yes should be interesting, I have a sujuhiki/slicer in CPM Rex121 at 71rc to compare to.

The 15v took less belts to grind than rex121 but certainly more than the 10v.

15v seems like a nice sweet spot, I'm curious to go thinner so it falls through the food better. Easy solution, just throw more abrasive at it :D

[Fireman]

****... I want one of those. Nice work BBB.

[Deadboxhero]

****... I want one of those. Nice work BBB.

Me too, will be rad to rock some 15v on a Spyderco folder. :D

[The Mastiff]

Even I would like a 15V folder run hard and I'm not a big carbide guy. One of the problems is Shawn explains things so well I start seeing the potential and next thing I'm thinking about 15V. If Spyderco can translate and deliver Shawn's heat treat this will be a new standard in commercial knives. If an company can pull it off it's Spyderco.

[GarageBoy]

What's the downsides to running super high carbide steels in a kitchen knife?
That's a nice looking blade shape!

[MacLaren]

Subscribed & WOW.

[wirelessjunkie]

... I like the aggression and "bite" you can feel at the edge with all those wonderful carbides bristling at the apex.

Great flavor to edge geek on.

Dude, youre speaking my language. I love the feeling of a nice aggressive/toothy edge right off the stones, especially with all these high vanadium steels out these days. Its so much fun putting them to the test and seeing how they perform over time. Love the content you put out there, please keep it coming.

[wirelessjunkie]

What's the downsides to running super high carbide steels in a kitchen knife?
That's a nice looking blade shape!

Im guessing sharpening time and lack of lateral flexibility (not wanting to use them for boning, heavy chopping, or cutting frozen materials). If you plan on using them to make low impact straight slicing cuts then Id think theyd be beneficial. Anyone else have any insight into this?

[ZrowsN1s]

Shawn just wanted to let you know Im willing to test out your kitchen knives free of charge as my way of contributing to the scientific study of 15V :D I will glady donate my time and kitchen.

[Deadboxhero]

Even I would like a 15V folder run hard and I'm not a big carbide guy. One of the problems is Shawn explains things so well I start seeing the potential and next thing I'm thinking about 15V. If Spyderco can translate and deliver Shawn's heat treat this will be a new standard in commercial knives. If an company can pull it off it's Spyderco.

Thanks Joe,

I have two blades rough ground and made for ya so far one in 15v at 67rc with a taper tang and one in the M3:1 at 63rc.

Handsanding has been the current choke point

[Deadboxhero]

What's the downsides to running super high carbide steels in a kitchen knife?
That's a nice looking blade shape!

Depends on the user, but for edge geeks the advantage is that apex will have it's strength maximized since usually the hardness can be run higher without yucky plate martensite and will keep a nice "bite" at the edge even when the apex looses that freaky crisp point which means less slipping on pepper, onion and tomato skin.

It maintains on a strop loaded with diamond spray very nicely rather than soft steels that can blunt badly in use and have no edge to strop back.

When drawing the edge across something the edge has slightly more ferocity. Feels like carbide reinforced teeth at the edge.

[Deadboxhero]

What's the downsides to running super high carbide steels in a kitchen knife?
That's a nice looking blade shape!

Im guessing sharpening time and lack of lateral flexibility (not wanting to use them for boning, heavy chopping, or cutting frozen materials). If you plan on using them to make low impact straight slicing cuts then Id think theyd be beneficial. Anyone else have any insight into this?

I feel that's not necessarily unique to a super steel blade.

Thicker geometry could be used to compensate for those tasks with any steel but with severe consequences to the cutting performance.

The running joke for edge geeks is the worlds most durable knife has no edge :p
So the more blunt and obtuse something is the more durable. That's why I always share the geometry when doing destruction testing otherwise who cares if it's just thick geometry absorbing all the love and not seeing what the steel or HT is doing.

So we can use thicker geometry make the ultimate frozen food, careless use blade but it would be pure punishment to those that do not need the "training wheels."

One disadvantage I can think of purely in regards to the steel for the end user are folks that didn't get the PSA about only using Diamond/CBN to sharpen a blade in 15v at 66.4rc.

We have to remember the apex is bristling with carbide particles at ~84 hrc with ~23% of the volume being made up of those Vanadium Carbide at 3-5 Microns.

For size reference, a single red blood cell pumping in ones veins is average about 8 Microns.

So when shaping a sharp, sub micron edge it becomes rather important to not just cut the softer surrounding matrix around the carbides and break and tear the carbides to shape but cut Everything If a crisper well shaped apex is desired at that size.

Of course a good sharpener can make anything sharp enough to cut things but there is a difference one will notice if discerning.

[sal]

Even I would like a 15V folder run hard and I'm not a big carbide guy. One of the problems is Shawn explains things so well I start seeing the potential and next thing I'm thinking about 15V. If Spyderco can translate and deliver Shawn's heat treat this will be a new standard in commercial knives. If an company can pull it off it's Spyderco.

Our own testing has shown that Shawn's heat treat does work better.

sal

[The Mastiff]

Our own testing has shown that Shawn's heat treat does work better.

That doesn't surprise me Sal. He looks for highest performance he can reasonably get. That typically will mean high hardness with lowest possible retained aus. I don't think he looks for shortcuts that affect either. That is exactly what you guys have been doing with the Rex 45 and K390 models you have been running.

I have two blades rough ground and made for ya so far one in 15v at 67rc with a taper tang and one in the M3:1 at 63rc.

Handsanding has been the current choke point

I don't think you should be spending time hand sanding them with all the other things you have going on. I'd rather you spend the time on more profitable things or stuff that advances your situation or abilities. If you ever get extra time and get them pretty much ground I could do the hand sanding anyways. Mine don't look pretty but that isn't what I usually am looking for in knives anyways. Some of my best times with knives the last few years has been making old Schrade USA or Solingen bowie knives from the 70's come back to life. I currently don't have power tools or a bench in this town home so I don't do much with wood or leather grips anymore. I do wish I had some shop space again. :)

[Deadboxhero]

Even I would like a 15V folder run hard and I'm not a big carbide guy. One of the problems is Shawn explains things so well I start seeing the potential and next thing I'm thinking about 15V. If Spyderco can translate and deliver Shawn's heat treat this will be a new standard in commercial knives. If an company can pull it off it's Spyderco.

Our own testing has shown that Shawn's heat treat does work better.

sal

So exciting :D

[Deadboxhero]

Thank you for the kind words Joe, I'm humbled.

Our own testing has shown that Shawn's heat treat does work better.

That doesn't surprise me Sal. He looks for highest performance he can reasonably get. That typically will mean high hardness with lowest possible retained aus. I don't think he looks for shortcuts that affect either. That is exactly what you guys have been doing with the Rex 45 and K390 models you have been running.

I have two blades rough ground and made for ya so far one in 15v at 67rc with a taper tang and one in the M3:1 at 63rc.

Handsanding has been the current choke point

I don't think you should be spending time hand sanding them with all the other things you have going on. I'd rather you spend the time on more profitable things or stuff that advances your situation or abilities. If you ever get extra time and get them pretty much ground I could do the hand sanding anyways. Mine don't look pretty but that isn't what I usually am looking for in knives anyways. Some of my best times with knives the last few years has been making old Schrade USA or Solingen bowie knives from the 70's come back to life. I currently don't have power tools or a bench in this town home so I don't do much with wood or leather grips anymore. I do wish I had some shop space again. :)

[jpm2]

Even I would like a 15V folder run hard and I'm not a big carbide guy. One of the problems is Shawn explains things so well I start seeing the potential and next thing I'm thinking about 15V. If Spyderco can translate and deliver Shawn's heat treat this will be a new standard in commercial knives. If an company can pull it off it's Spyderco.

Thanks Joe,

I have two blades rough ground and made for ya so far one in 15v at 67rc with a taper tang and one in the M3:1 at 63rc.

Handsanding has been the current choke point

I'm looking forward to your 15v folder.

M3:1 sounds interesting. I have what I think are a few home made (by me) M3 blades. Don't know what variety (M3, M3:1,2 with/without cobalt, etc). They are made from starret power hacksaw blades, full hss, not bimetal. I'm pleased with the edge holding/stability.

[Baron Mind]

B3, congratulations on being so close to the production line.
Question is, is that a small or large pouch?
Looks like a small one (Chime in if I am wrong)
What does that say about the size of the knife?

Pouch doesn't look small to me. Taking up a lot of handkerchief real estate in that pic. An average handkerchief is what? 8x8? 10x10? 12x12?

I'm predicting a 3.5-4 inch blade. Under 3mm stock. I don't know if designers have any say in how thin the blade is ground behind the edge, but let's hope so.

[Pancake]

Hey Shawn.
If your folder colab sell well, do you think about a small fixed blade in 15V collaboration?