It just takes the edge right off.

[Tucson Tom]

I wish I had a magnification device.

Get one man! I recommend a Belomo 10x triplet. I own at least 3 so I can always find one quickly and/or have one in my pack, etc.
I can't live without one, and you gotta see your edge up close now and then.


https://www.amazon.com/BelOMO-Triplet-L ... B00EXPWU8S

[Bloke]

I wish I had a magnification device.

Get one man! I recommend a Belomo 10x triplet. I own at least 3 so I can always find one quickly and/or have one in my pack, etc.
I can't live without one, and you gotta see your edge up close now and then.

What Tom said!

[Evil D]

Yikes, that's ugly! Can't believe that much damage to S110V on a single strap.

On a single steel strap it doesn't surprise me. I wouldn't say S110V is fragile, I think it's much tougher than some people suggest but it does seem more likely to chip in situations like this. I've cut a bunch of plastic packing straps without any edge damage at all but steel vs steel is a different story. Edge geometry is also a factor, if he knew ahead of time that he'd be cutting a steel strap then maybe a higher edge angle could have helped.

...then he could have used a pair of pliers to snap the steel band. Two sets also works for bigger ones or when they're under more tension https://youtu.be/38zfhvTweDs

EDC folding knives aren't designed to cut steel, no matter how comparatively tough the blade steel is.

Well yeah definitely there are better tools, but I do wonder how much you could mitigate this kind of damage with the right edge finish.

[tps3443]

WIN_20181030_21_11_39_Pro.jpgWIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpgHere are the pics:

That’s a steep looking angle! Haha.

[tps3443]

Here’s a bunch of green straps I had to cut up, and my edge after I get home. There’s no telling how much cardboard It went through, probably 175 boxes that were 3 layers thick. I had to slice open. Then tape then closed after putting a plate inside each one. When I slice the boxes open I’m not cutting a taped area either, it’s straight cardboard 3-4 layers thick.

I just stropped the edge after I got home, and I’m doing the same thing again today. Rinse and repeat.

[tps3443]

I wish I had a magnification device.

Get one man! I recommend a Belomo 10x triplet. I own at least 3 so I can always find one quickly and/or have one in my pack, etc.
I can't live without one, and you gotta see your edge up close now and then.


https://www.amazon.com/BelOMO-Triplet-L ... B00EXPWU8S

Ok, I didn’t realize they were only $30 bucks on Amazon. I’m ordering one.

This new found knife hobby is interesting. Whenever every other Friday comes around, I debate whether or not to order a knife, or more WE sharpening stones, or sharpening accessories lol.

Decisions, decisions..

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

WIN_20181030_21_11_39_Pro.jpgWIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpgHere are the pics:

That’s a steep looking angle! Haha.

It sure is and not what I wanted but oh well lemons and lemonade. It should be fine with the back bevels. One nice thing about the steepness it slices like a much thinner blade stock knife. I was slicing paper thin slices of garlic for Spaghetti Ali olio.

[vivi]

WIN_20181030_21_11_39_Pro.jpgWIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpgHere are the pics:

That’s a steep looking angle! Haha.

I've taken a few Militarys down to around that angle, or even steeper. They slice so good.

I actually did a lot of testing with multiple copies of the same knife. For example take a stock Para 2 and a second Para 2 taken down to 10 degrees per side with a 15dps microbevel. Comparing them side by side the 10dps Para would penetrate certain materials with half the force of the stock knife. Anyone can replicate my tests, just cut things on top of a scale and measure the force required. Stiff materials like apples, carrots, potatoes, cardboard, rigid plastic etc. show the biggest difference. Other materials like rope, fabric and plastic shrink wrap depend on sharpness pretty much exclusively, and don't show a big difference.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

WIN_20181030_21_11_39_Pro.jpgWIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpgHere are the pics:

That’s a steep looking angle! Haha.

I've taken a few Militarys down to around that angle, or even steeper. They slice so good.

I actually did a lot of testing with multiple copies of the same knife. For example take a stock Para 2 and a second Para 2 taken down to 10 degrees per side with a 15dps microbevel. Comparing them side by side the 10dps Para would penetrate certain materials with half the force of the stock knife. Anyone can replicate my tests, just cut things on top of a scale and measure the force required. Stiff materials like apples, carrots, potatoes, cardboard, rigid plastic etc. show the biggest difference. Other materials like rope, fabric and plastic shrink wrap depend on sharpness pretty much exclusively, and don't show a big difference.

Good point but as much as I love my Wicked edge pro3 even with the latest vice it still sucks to work with at these lower degrees. (10 degrees or less)

I have my eye on a new sharpening system from Gritomatic https://www.gritomatic.com/products/hap ... -sharpener I wonder if others using the Lanskey type systems can really get down into these lower angels?

I have to confess I do like the performance a lot from the lower angles and wider cutting blade area.

[vivi]

That's one of the biggest drawbacks of those systems. I couldn't imagine paying $300-500 for a sharpening system that can't even give my knives optimal edge angles.

I'm happier dropping $50-80 on some stones and going at it free hand. I'll take the sloppier, thinner bevels.

I'd imagine most people are happy with them though. Free hand or not I don't see many people running angles like your Millie and my users.

[Sharp Guy]

Good point but as much as I love my Wicked edge pro3 even with the latest vice it still sucks to work with at these lower degrees. (10 degrees or less)

I have my eye on a new sharpening system from Gritomatic https://www.gritomatic.com/products/hap ... -sharpener I wonder if others using the Lanskey type systems can really get down into these lower angels?

I have to confess I do like the performance a lot from the lower angles and wider cutting blade area.

Before dropping that kind of money on the new R1 I'd recommend you take a serious look at the Hapstone V7. Despite what the website says I can set up a PM2 on my V7 for 8 dps easy using 1/4" thick stones. If I really wanted to I could do a couple simple mods to the V7 and go even lower.

If you end up deciding you must have a clamped system you can buy a clamp for the V7 that's similar to the one used on the R1. I originally thought I might want to upgrade but, after using the V7 for a year, I see no need for it.

http://hapstone.pro/en/hapstone-v7/

[anagarika]

WIN_20181030_21_11_39_Pro.jpgWIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpgHere are the pics:

That’s a steep looking angle! Haha.

I've taken a few Militarys down to around that angle, or even steeper. They slice so good.

I actually did a lot of testing with multiple copies of the same knife. For example take a stock Para 2 and a second Para 2 taken down to 10 degrees per side with a 15dps microbevel. Comparing them side by side the 10dps Para would penetrate certain materials with half the force of the stock knife. Anyone can replicate my tests, just cut things on top of a scale and measure the force required. Stiff materials like apples, carrots, potatoes, cardboard, rigid plastic etc. show the biggest difference. Other materials like rope, fabric and plastic shrink wrap depend on sharpness pretty much exclusively, and don't show a big difference.

Unit did similar test with Endura:
https://youtu.be/u4rDIFFyXVk

[Pelagic]

WIN_20181030_21_11_59_Pro.jpg

What angle was this sharpened at?

[tps3443]

The most I can get is about 13.00DPS on my Wicked Edge. That’s good enough for me.

I usually run 14.75 DPS for my secondary bevel, and 20 DPS for my microbevel. If I run a 14.75DPS angle, I’ve gotta strop at 13.75DPS. Then I’ll strop again at 19 DPS.

It’s amazing how you really learn a system, and know exactly what to do to put a hair popping edge on just about anything.

I sharpened a butter knife the other day. It looks like it was made that way. It was one dangerous butter knife!

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

That's one of the biggest drawbacks of those systems. I couldn't imagine paying $300-500 for a sharpening system that can't even give my knives optimal edge angles.

I'm happier dropping $50-80 on some stones and going at it free hand. I'll take the sloppier, thinner bevels.

I'd imagine most people are happy with them though. Free hand or not I don't see many people running angles like your Millie and my users.

Would you mind sharing the stones you are using, for only 50 - 80 dollars it is worth a try. I have lately been considering free hand after seeing the results of this knife at these low angles.

[vivi]

That's one of the biggest drawbacks of those systems. I couldn't imagine paying $300-500 for a sharpening system that can't even give my knives optimal edge angles.

I'm happier dropping $50-80 on some stones and going at it free hand. I'll take the sloppier, thinner bevels.

I'd imagine most people are happy with them though. Free hand or not I don't see many people running angles like your Millie and my users.

Would you mind sharing the stones you are using, for only 50 - 80 dollars it is worth a try. I have lately been considering free hand after seeing the results of this knife at these low angles.

Sure.



6" DMT Extra Course (the one with holes), and a 6" DMT fine.

The DMT Fine was the first sharpening stone I ever bought for myself. I had a few hand me down arkansas stones and a few kitchen style rods before that, but wanted to see what all the diamond hype was about.

I paid $30 for it. I used it for everything. Did my first reprofiling jobs with it, polished edges on it, and of course used it for regular sharpenings.

As I learned more about sharpening I realized a lower grit stone would dramatically speed up reprofiling, so I got one of the cheapest DMT's I could find, the 6" XC for $35.

I reprofiled over 100 knives on that DMT. Including many like the pictured Pacific Salt where I essentially converted a saber grind into a scandi grind.

Both of those stones have over a decade of wear on them and still work great.

Eventually I replaced each with more expensive stones. The XC DMT was replaced by a longer, XX coarse continuous surface stone. The holes don't provide any benefit IMO and can actually cause the tip to get caught up if you're not careful. The short length made it easy to slip off the edge of the stone while reprofiling and scratch the tip.

The DMT fine was replaced by a Spyderco Medium bench stone, which is what I pretty much exclusively use to sharpen all of my knives. It's also a longer stone, and it removes metal more slowly. To this day I love the edge I get off that DMT fine, but it removes metal too fast to be my daily touch-up stone. The Spyderco stone works much slower, but not as slow as their fine.

I typically go straight from the XX course DMT to adding a more polished microbevel. On some knives, particularly carbon steel knives, I still use the DMT fine to polish the bevel before I add amicrobevel on the Spyderco stone.

That DMT combo would easily last another decade based on my experiences with them. It's all I need to take a dull knife with an obtuse edge down to 10 degrees per side with a hair splitting sharp microbevel.