Spyderco Forums

I'm wondering what angle the bevel of Spyderco serrations is set at. It seems steeper than 15 degrees. I've never had to reprofile them and have always just sharpened the microbevel. I was thinking 12 degrees but I'm probably wrong.

It seems to vary from model to model and country of origin. I've even had a couple that couldn't be sharpened on the 40 degree slots so they were steeper than 20 degrees. I sharpen most on the 40 degree slots.

My HBDfly worked best in the 30 degree slots, and my Tasman 2 worked best in the 40 degree slots.

My Pacific Salt seems ground at 15 degrees on the dot, works great in the 30 degree SM slots.

Tasman was ground closer to 20, 30 degree slots just hit the shoulder.

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:47 pm

My HBDfly worked best in the 30 degree slots, and my Tasman 2 worked best in the 40 degree slots.

That's interesting because I was thinking my HBDfly was one that was over 20 degrees. Seems like I remember having to stand the Sharpmaker base on another rod to change the angle enough to hit the edge and not the shoulder. I'll have to double-check it.

I've just been wondering becuase I was checking it out on a couple and the 30 on the sharpmaker hit in about the center of a scallop on both. Seemed odd, I suppose. Then again, it could have just been a bad angle that I was holding it.

Also, since I've been using Vivi's technique, the tip of my Delica wharncliffe has not rounded. That was one of the things I was most afraid of for that model but it just has not happened.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:58 pm

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:47 pm

My HBDfly worked best in the 30 degree slots, and my Tasman 2 worked best in the 40 degree slots.

That's interesting because I was thinking my HBDfly was one that was over 20 degrees. Seems like I remember having to stand the Sharpmaker base on another rod to change the angle enough to hit the edge and not the shoulder. I'll have to double-check it.

You're right D, I must have that backwards. I just checked. HBDfly is indeed 40 degree slots.

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 05, 2018 4:14 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:58 pm

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:47 pm

My HBDfly worked best in the 30 degree slots, and my Tasman 2 worked best in the 40 degree slots.

That's interesting because I was thinking my HBDfly was one that was over 20 degrees. Seems like I remember having to stand the Sharpmaker base on another rod to change the angle enough to hit the edge and not the shoulder. I'll have to double-check it.

You're right D, I must have that backwards. I just checked. HBDfly is indeed 40 degree slots.

It must have something to do with the hawkbill blade because I'm pretty sure my standard Dfly Salt SE will sharpen on the 30s but I like using the 40s anyway.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 04, 2018 12:24 pm

It seems to vary from model to model and country of origin. I've even had a couple that couldn't be sharpened on the 40 degree slots so they were steeper than 20 degrees. I sharpen most on the 40 degree slots.

When touching up Spyderedges on the 204 Sharpmaker which is not my primary method of sharpening Spyderedges>> I only use that tool for touch up and an occasional quick-sharpening. After I do about 12 to 20 strokes on the serrated side I think flip it over and do two to three strokes on the back side to eliminate any burr that might occur.

I far prefer the old/discontinued Spyderco 701 Profile kit. It's more time consuming but I'm able to obtain the original factory edge far better than I can with the 204 Sharpmaker>> and I'm a huge fan of the Sharpmaker too but I've found that manual tools seem to work better. I'm getting ready to buy one of those VEFF serrated edge sharpening tools and when I do I'll keep you all posted.

When are we ever going to get to try out Spyderco's GAUNTLET sharpening kit?????? I've heard that tool has more than one way to sharpen serrated edges. Can't wait to try one out in real life.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 05, 2018 4:25 pm

It must have something to do with the hawkbill blade because I'm pretty sure my standard Dfly Salt SE will sharpen on the 30s but I like using the 40s anyway.

My Hawk and regular are different.

Check your PM, bro.

Jazz wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:28 am

Check your PM, bro.

I got a notification but it just said "You are not authorised to read private messages that are on hold."

Evil D wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:38 am

I got a notification but it just said "You are not authorised to read private messages that are on hold."

What does that mean? It says my sent messages folder is 100% full. I cleared some out. ??

Jazz wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:21 am

Evil D wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:38 am

I got a notification but it just said "You are not authorised to read private messages that are on hold."

What does that mean? It says my sent messages folder is 100% full. I cleared some out. ??

I haven't got a clue, my box isn't full either :confused:

I say 40 degrees isn't very steep for serrations if you sharpen the flat side somewhat close to zero. It should get you an inclusive edge of something above 20 degrees.

Donut wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:59 pm

I say 40 degrees isn't very steep for serrations if you sharpen the flat side somewhat close to zero. It should get you an inclusive edge of something above 20 degrees.

That's partly why I always use the 40 slots on the Sharpmaker, I figure it makes for a tougher edge on a bevel that isn't easily reprofiled to repair damage.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 09, 2018 5:04 pm

Donut wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:59 pm

I say 40 degrees isn't very steep for serrations if you sharpen the flat side somewhat close to zero. It should get you an inclusive edge of something above 20 degrees.

That's partly why I always use the 40 slots on the Sharpmaker, I figure it makes for a tougher edge on a bevel that isn't easily reprofiled to repair damage.

So you do a V grind and not a chisel grind?

Donut wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:37 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 09, 2018 5:04 pm

Donut wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:59 pm

I say 40 degrees isn't very steep for serrations if you sharpen the flat side somewhat close to zero. It should get you an inclusive edge of something above 20 degrees.

That's partly why I always use the 40 slots on the Sharpmaker, I figure it makes for a tougher edge on a bevel that isn't easily reprofiled to repair damage.

So you do a V grind and not a chisel grind?

Well yeah I guess technically because the back side of the blade is never actually sharpened at 0 degrees no matter how I do it. Most times I angle the blade to get the back side as low as I can get it but since Spyderco doesn't actually grind their blades in a true chisel grind, that back side always has some kind of angle to it so the resulting edge is somewhere above 20 inclusive depending on the knife. My Stretch for example I've played around with sharpening the back of the blade completely flat on the blade grind itself as you would a true chisel grind, but the back of the blade grind isn't at true 0 so the back side has an angle probably around 5-10 degrees or something like that.

With all the observations and debate about Spyderco's serrations concerning what bevel or angle is interesting. The possible performance effects of a different bevel/angle I'm sure have some effect on their performance. Also considering whether or not the point part of the serration is either extremely pointed ( spikey) or somewhat rounded also plays a part in their overall performance I'm sure.

But what makes me wonder more than anything else is the possibility of exploring different serration patterns having the possibility of better overall performance has made me curious for quite some time. Spyderco has from what I can ascertain two distinct, basic serration patterns in their overall line up with a couple of minor exceptions. The most basic pattern they have is the scallop and spike type pattern that we see mostly on GOLDEN and Japam made models. On their kitchen/culinary models like the K-04 & K-05 models we see a wavy and somewhat rounded type of serration pattern>> this is a pattern that I wish they would explore more as time goes by.

I truly believe we are only seeing the tip of the iceberg so to speak. I really believe that better serration patterns can and should be developed as time goes on. I believe that ultimate performance might lie in the more wavy/rounded serration patterns. Oh I do like the scallop and spike patterns for really roughhouse type work. But for food processing, butchering wild game and more precise cutting I do think that the rounded/wavy type patterns hold more promise in the long run IMO.

Wavy pattern serrations wouldn’t bite and hold to what needs cutting as well. Not sure I’d like that. Just like there’s a fine line between too pointy/aggressive and too shallow.