Spyderco Forums

Deadboxhero wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:21 am

sal wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 14, 2018 7:55 am

Thanx shawn,

Another sick edge junky :p

sal

Haha thanks Sal, it's always great to play with the new japanese sprints.
Cheers!


May I ask what the hardness came out too?

Shawn

Shawn,

I like my XHP (CS - BS, exact Coyote Tan like yours), better than Endura VG10 and quite similar to Endura ZDP in feel when cutting & sharpening. Recently have started to like finishing off Spyderco UF and shave with them. The crispness of the edge of XHP is almost there with ZDP. All are taken down to 25° or so inclusive (eyeball, I free hand).

How would V 2 compare to these (VG10, ZDP, XHP)? Will it finish as nice with maintenance using DMT (worn) EEF and Spyderco UF as opposed to stropping?

V2 should be thougt of a different flavor of blue #2, 52100, 1095

Just simple carbon steel, low alloy stuff.

Which has advantage and disadvantage compared to xhp, VG10 and ZDP.

V2 is tougher, faster to sharpen and hones better but isn't going to take the aggressive edges of high alloy powder steel nor will it cut as long.

So It doesn't need diamond, it's not going to take a very aggressive "bitey" edge at a medium grit finish like a powder steel, it can handle very low angles and grinds easy on the bevel and deburrs well. One of the highlights is that V2 will be the king of touch ups and honing, which is how alot of people sharpen their knives just a few passes on a slightly dulled edge and it's back. Most steels need to be resharpen and reapexed so the advantage to V2 over some powder steels is that it can be more forgiving to half effort Sharpening (honing) and still produce a sharpish edge.

Between white ceramic and stropping you could probably keep a V2 edge going a good long while if you set the bevel correctly. That's why it's beloved as a workhouse type steel in the kitchen world it's also a very durable edge.


Everyone wants to directly compare it to hap40, zdp189, etc. That's just not a good comparison they are too different.



It would be like comparing a drag racer to a rally car.





Comparing them directly would have to put one of the steels at a disadvantage to the advantage of the other making one look Wayyyyy better when in reality they're just different and both have there strong suits, kinda just comes down to preference and how it's used.


V2 should be thought of as a tougher Super Blue with a less aggressive edge.

The Hallmark of this steel is low angles, if your are Sharpening above 30° inclusive the advantage of V2 is lost, gotta use low angles to enjoy it.

I think a regrind is in order for me to get what I want out of my V2. While the spine thickness is nice and thin,
This knife is kinda thick behind the edge for V2 in my opinion.

(0.018" out of box)

I'd rather see 0.010" so that's what I'll do next.


Now about the edge,

It's not going to have the "bite" the powder steels have nor is it going to take the edge super blue gets. It can still sharpen to the same level of crispness, sharpness.

It's not that a steel gets sharpener per say but people associate that aggression and "bite" with sharpness because it grabs their thumb more when running the edge perpendicular to the thumb pad That's why the three finger edge sharpeness test is in important skill, you slide the fingers parallel down the edge and "feel" the apex to see how crisp it is by how it bites the dead skin on the pads so you don't get fooled buy a poorly apexed edge that's not crispy but the steel has enough carbide volume to "grab" the thumb pad even when not very sharp.

The problem with the three finger test is it if done wrong with too much force and speed it can lead to Nasty cuts on the fingers so those with poor proprioception and Dexterity should just avoid it.


All steels get just as sharp but with various amount of aggression. Depends alot on the sharpener and edge finish but it gets to a point when you can get ALL steels very sharp and you'll start to notice some just have more of a grab, that's edge aggression, that's the bite, that's the carbides

The V2 edge is a very fine, smoother edge less carbides pop out at the Apex to catch and grab stuff.
It feels nothing like VG10, XHP or ZDP. More like 52100. Or super blue with the volume turned down.

So if your expecting an edge like a powder steel you'll be disappointed

What's exciting about V2 is it's easy to sharpen and ANY abrasive can be used to bring up the edge and it holds it's apex well at very low angles.


That's been my experience.

I got my Endura V-Toku today and sharpened it to 17° with the Lansky, then put a 20°microbevel on it using the Sharpmaker. It was (is) very sharp after stropping but chipped out about 3/4" behind the tip on its first encounter with cardboard. The repair was easy with a pair of 320 grit ruby rods. I'm interested if others will experience the same.

Bruce Mack wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 16, 2018 4:52 pm

I got my Endura V-Toku today and sharpened it to 17° with the Lansky, then put a 20°microbevel on it using the Sharpmaker. It was (is) very sharp after stropping but chipped out about 3/4" behind the tip on its first encounter with cardboard. The repair was easy with a pair of 320 grit ruby rods. I'm interested if others will experience the same.

Interesting, any pictures? Have you been able to replicate it?

I'm thinking about dropping the angles lower after smacking it on metal to see how the edge fails. No damage

Shawn,

Thanks for detailing the difference. Much appreciated.

Sorry, no pictures. After my post, I went at more cardboard, some double thickness, with no further chipping.

I noticed that the lamination lines are asymmetrical. Will this lead to chipping or other problems?
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... pvlnxMHpcN
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... CUgUw6LMS0

I'm sorry if these do not post. I'm new to technology.

Bruce Mack wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:33 am

I noticed that the lamination lines are asymmetrical. Will this lead to chipping or other problems?
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... pvlnxMHpcN
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... CUgUw6LMS0

I'm sorry if these do not post. I'm new to technology.

It's just aesthetics. Nothing to worry about as far as performance.

Oops! Duplicate post.

Finally got my V-toku2 Endura in my pocket last night, and promptly put it to work cutting up some pork tenderloins and pork chops that I was grilling. Left the blade dirty during our party, and it has started to develop a nice patina. This will be a great memory of this party for years to come!



Oh, and it naturally did wonders on the pork!

That knife looks great Capt'n! I really like the look of natural-use patina.

Yesterday I had a chance to reset the bevel on mine. I agree with Shawn, it could stand to be a bit thinner behind the edge, my example has a slightly off center edge, but not so bad that it was worth spending extra time to completely eliminate it.

I started with a coarse diamond plate to sharpen the edge all the way to the ricasso, then set the bevel at 15 DPS with the 150 grit bonded diamond stone, then to the 400 grit, 1200 grit, and finished with the Sungari fine slate stone. The edge shaves effortlessly and my favorite part is that this steel doesn't generate much burr, just enough to know you have gone all the way to apex, and then it comes off with a few strokes on the opposing side of the blade, a really easy finish compared to most high alloy steels.

It will be in my pocket all week, so I ought to have a good feel for how it holds an edge by the weekend and also have a stronger opinion on the Endure as well, So far I'm liking it... it's a lot of knife without taking up too much pocket space.

I appreciate the info you bring to the table regarding these sprint steels Shawn! Your knowledge and experience is invaluable to us all here. I'm also curious of the rough HRC these came in at, but I assume we might get an answer once all of the models have been released and experienced before Sal chimes in :).

I just received an Endura yesterday and notice the stock thickness seems to run a hair thinner than the standard VG-10 Enduras.. has anyone else noticed this? Seems to be similar to the HAP sprints that ran a bit thinner stock as well. We'll see if this pattern continues as the other models are released .

Capt'n Boatsalot wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:18 am

Finally got my V-toku2 Endura in my pocket last night, and promptly put it to work cutting up some pork tenderloins and pork chops that I was grilling. Left the blade dirty during our party, and it has started to develop a nice patina. This will be a great memory of this party for years to come!



Oh, and it naturally did wonders on the pork!

I love the blue colors that come out in the patina on the natural use cutting meat. Just beautiful
Any more pics?

weeping minora wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:31 pm

I appreciate the info you bring to the table regarding these sprint steels Shawn! Your knowledge and experience is invaluable to us all here. I'm also curious of the rough HRC these came in at, but I assume we might get an answer once all of the models have been released and experienced before Sal chimes in :).

I just received an Endura yesterday and notice the stock thickness seems to run a hair thinner than the standard VG-10 Enduras.. has anyone else noticed this? Seems to be similar to the HAP sprints that ran a bit thinner stock as well. We'll see if this pattern continues as the other models are released .

Thanks brother, I appreciate that.

I tried to test the hardness on the V2 by taking a sharp edge to the spine of some knife blanks I have at a known hardness. The V2 edge readily bites in 8670 at 63 HRC and Nitro V at 63-64hrc but slips on W2 at 65hrc, 52100 at 65 HRC and CPM 4V at 64HRC, I also batoned my knife through a nail to check the toughness. With the damage it took at 15dps and 0.019" behind the edge and how the edge feels when grinding on ceramic and CBN stones I'd say it's in the ballpark of 62-63hrc

But I'd be curious to see what Sal shares


Here it is all sharpened up but you can see the damage at the spine and a little deformation left over from hammering my Endura through a nail with the lock disengaged. (The blade will break at the pivot if you don't)



I went from 0.018" bte out of box to 0.019 after reprofiling and Sharpening on various stones to 0.024" after repairing damage which is close to a shaman geometry at 0.025"bte, crazy

awa54 wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:11 am

Yesterday I had a chance to reset the bevel on mine. I agree with Shawn, it could stand to be a bit thinner behind the edge, my example has a slightly off center edge, but not so bad that it was worth spending extra time to completely eliminate it.

I started with a coarse diamond plate to sharpen the edge all the way to the ricasso, then set the bevel at 15 DPS with the 150 grit bonded diamond stone, then to the 400 grit, 1200 grit, and finished with the Sungari fine slate stone. The edge shaves effortlessly and my favorite part is that this steel doesn't generate much burr, just enough to know you have gone all the way to apex, and then it comes off with a few strokes on the opposing side of the blade, a really easy finish compared to most high alloy steels.

It will be in my pocket all week, so I ought to have a good feel for how it holds an edge by the weekend and also have a stronger opinion on the Endure as well, So far I'm liking it... it's a lot of knife without taking up too much pocket space.

I agree, vtoku2 is an excellent candidate for a thinner grind, it's a very clean steel, very stable, good edge toughness and decent hardness

So it was time to grind it down



Polish it up



Patina it up




And enjoy :D

So strawberries patina more than anything else I have tried. Also sharpening, I had mixed results with brown rods and better with white ones. I keep trying to get an edge with teeth but it is tough with this steel. It isn’t overly toothy but very sharp. Really enjoying this one so far.

twinboysdad wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 08, 2018 6:28 pm

So strawberries patina more than anything else I have tried. Also sharpening, I had mixed results with brown rods and better with white ones. I keep trying to get an edge with teeth but it is tough with this steel. It isn’t overly toothy but very sharp. Really enjoying this one so far.

Yea it wants to be "smooth" at the edge. It's sharp, it gets crisp but it has almost zero aggression.

That regrind is gorgeous, Shawn! How thin bte did it come out?

toocool006 wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:27 pm

That regrind is gorgeous, Shawn! How things bte did it come out?

Thanks brother, came out to 0.008" really enjoy how knives cut in that range.