Re: V-TOKU2 endura and hap40 wharncliffe delica have dropped!
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:15 pm
hmm...I had not thought of that. Interesting idea. Although, I think that would make it less of a daily user for me. Post a picture once you swap blades.SC_PATRIOT wrote: ↑Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:36 pmI'm about 80% sure I'll be putting the Wharn hap40 blade on my Pakkawood frame.
bearfacedkiller wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:05 pmIt is up to you if it is acceptable. I have about 10 Spydies with laminated blades and none of them have even lamination lines. It is what it is. As long as the laminate doesn’t touch the edge I don’t sweat it. These are meant to be users.
The only thing to worry about sharpening wise is the aesthetics of the knife once you reach the lamination line. The V-Toku steel is sandwiched throughout the height of the blade to the spine, so the edge (apex) will always cut with V-Tokuhovan2yourknives wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:31 pmbearfacedkiller wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:05 pmIt is up to you if it is acceptable. I have about 10 Spydies with laminated blades and none of them have even lamination lines. It is what it is. As long as the laminate doesn’t touch the edge I don’t sweat it. These are meant to be users.
I’m not concerned about the aesthetics at all...my concern is that the line is fairly close to the edge and the grind is asymmetrical towards that side. Future sharpenings are going to be troublesome...
Yes...I get that. I'm not concerned with the edge touching the line, my concern is that if the core of VToku steel is perfectly centered in the stock (which we have to assume it is) then a narrower lamination line on one side of the blade would mean that the blade is ground asymmetrically towards that side. In other words...if you were looking straight down at the edge relative to the full-stock width at the ricasso...the edge will be "off-center" and favoring that side. This has caused me issues in the past when reprofiling an edge with a "clamp-style" sharpening system such as the KME. If you do not adjust the angle every time you flip the blade...your bevels can be off by a significant amount. And it's not like it's only off by a little bit...the lamination line is over 3X as thick on the other side. I assume it would be more of an issue if this was on a knife with a thicker blade but I have 3 HAP40 Spydercos that don't have this issue at all.weeping minora wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:36 pmThe only thing to worry about sharpening wise is the aesthetics of the knife once you reach the lamination line. The V-Toku steel is sandwiched throughout the height of the blade to the spine, so the edge (apex) will always cut with V-Tokuhovan2yourknives wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:31 pmbearfacedkiller wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:05 pmIt is up to you if it is acceptable. I have about 10 Spydies with laminated blades and none of them have even lamination lines. It is what it is. As long as the laminate doesn’t touch the edge I don’t sweat it. These are meant to be users.
I’m not concerned about the aesthetics at all...my concern is that the line is fairly close to the edge and the grind is asymmetrical towards that side. Future sharpenings are going to be troublesome...
That's good to hear! My 3 HAP40 blade have all been very even...looks like I'm holding onto mine because the retailer won't offer an exchange. I'll post some pictures after I reprofile it. Thanks!ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:25 pmI'll post some pictures of mine later. I think mines got a slight curve in the blade near the tip(you'd need a laser to see it). The lam line is very close to the edge on one side and very wide on the other. I'm curious to see how it is when I sharpen it. My expectation is using my guided rod system that the bevel will end up being a tiny bit wider near the tip on one side.
I don't think either of ours are worth sending back though. I've yet to have a laminated knife with completely even lines, they have all performed just fine.
Thank you for the clarification; now I understand what you're saying :). I'm not familiar when it comes to sharpening system issues, as I've only ever sharpened freehand :o, but I see how this would be an issue within a fixed angle. I do agree on the OCD of wanting that perfect symmetry, but that level of QC would undoubtedly deserve a very high premium that most ELUs wouldn't be willing to justify.hovan2yourknives wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:27 pmYes...I get that. I'm not concerned with the edge touching the line, my concern is that if the core of VToku steel is perfectly centered in the stock (which we have to assume it is) then a narrower lamination line on one side of the blade would mean that the blade is ground asymmetrically towards that side. In other words...if you were looking straight down at the edge relative to the full-stock width at the ricasso...the edge will be "off-center" and favoring that side. This has caused me issues in the past when reprofiling an edge with a "clamp-style" sharpening system such as the KME. If you do not adjust the angle every time you flip the blade...your bevels can be off by a significant amount. And it's not like it's only off by a little bit...the lamination line is over 3X as thick on the other side. I assume it would be more of an issue if this was on a knife with a thicker blade but I have 3 HAP40 Spydercos that don't have this issue at all.weeping minora wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:36 pmThe only thing to worry about sharpening wise is the aesthetics of the knife once you reach the lamination line. The V-Toku steel is sandwiched throughout the height of the blade to the spine, so the edge (apex) will always cut with V-Tokuhovan2yourknives wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:31 pmbearfacedkiller wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:05 pmIt is up to you if it is acceptable. I have about 10 Spydies with laminated blades and none of them have even lamination lines. It is what it is. As long as the laminate doesn’t touch the edge I don’t sweat it. These are meant to be users.
I’m not concerned about the aesthetics at all...my concern is that the line is fairly close to the edge and the grind is asymmetrical towards that side. Future sharpenings are going to be troublesome...
I actually called the retailer and they aren't willing to help me with an exchange...I guess I'm nuts for thinking that this would be considered a problem by others. Maybe it's just some old habits, that were necessary for me to have during my many years as a lead QC supervisor for a large & high-end jewelry retailer, which cause me to see it as such...
That's the way I usually do it on blades with a thicker stock but only because I get a better grip...never crossed my mind to do it to try to keep the bevels even. I thought that it might actually do the opposite but I'll definitely take your word for it and give it a shot. I only use my KME to reprofile Spydercos because of the sharp plunge grind and kick that sticks out of the FF choil. I prefer freehand and if I have a proper sharpening choil I'll almost always opt for it...ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:39 pmHey one more thought for you about the KME. I'm not sure where you are clamping the knife, but if at all possible on full flat grinds clamp the ricasso near the handle. It's flatter and helps with keeping the blade centered in the clamp so you don't get two different angles when you flip it over.
If you are not happy with it send it back for a refund and immediately order another from a different vendor. Knives Plus and Rivers Edege still have them in stock. If you go with KP, in the comment section ask Danner to pick you a winner and he will.hovan2yourknives wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:38 amI was so excited to get my first Endura ever...had been waiting for the past few years for the “right” one and just got this version in the mail a few minutes ago. I’m definitely a little bummed out...take a look at the photos...
I even asked the vendor, in the comments section of the purchase, to please check and make sure grinds and lamination lines were symmetrical. If they were just wavy I wouldn’t really care but one side is MUCH closer to the edge and too close in my opinion. What would you guys do?
Hi SG88, actually no, not really. I do like the Dfly version but the Delica one just didn’t do it for me, especially after I spotted a pair of desert ironwood Cuscadi scales on eBay for cheap. Swapped the HAP40 blade into the foliage green Damascus handle, and that Damascus blade into the Pakkawood and sold it (it was a very pretty knife!).
It's funny, when I got started with Spyderco knives a couple years ago I was all about the finger groove. Now I find I can take it or leave it. It's nice to have the option of using it on models I have with it but I don't miss it on models I have without it (like the Delica, Mantra, Sliverax, etc).
Very nice!RadioactiveSpyder wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:58 pm
These are Casey Lynch custom titanium Delica scales that give you a Delica with a choil... :)