Gayle Bradley 2 mini

[roninair]

Mr Bradley have you given any thought to a smaller version of your Gayle Bradley 2? possible 3 in blade ,I admire the looks of your knife,maybe more in a shorter and lighter version

[Slumblor]

I would be so into this.

[Joris Mo]

Could definitely work, any excuse for more M4 is good as well.
For now also still saving pennies for a GB2 and/or an Advocate.

[rybu0305]

I would be all over a smaller GB2. I was hesitant at first to get a GB2 but after owning one I love the size.

You could look at an Advocate. On paper it doesn't look smaller but in hand it definitely feels smaller.

[abbazaba]

This is a great idea.

[hoimin]

I was blabbing about this idea ever since I got the GB2 in hand, so I'm glad to see I'm not the only one. A Spyderco small Sebenza/mini-Griptilian analog would be welcome.

I think the GB2 platform has the legs to go into sprints and a GB3 (3") could do the same*. Same proud liners, different scales (G-10 is fine) to match the sprint steels (20CV/M390, PSF27/XHP, S110v/S90v, etc.). Hard to beat CF/G-10 with M4 though.

I think the Advocate blade shape would be pretty awesome in a slimmer 3" folder, as it has the nested Spyderhole that the GB2 hollow grind probably does not support properly.

* Great platform for scale makers and such modders as well, if Spyderco is interested in that.

[gull wing]

I got a GB1 right out the gate, they cut like crazy. Don't carry it much because it's too big and heavy.
Yes! A 3" GB 2 would be worth my consideration.

[abbazaba]

Sounds like a good project for Jazz

[Ti Rod Tactical]

Well,... I got a little tired of waiting,...and at age 61 I have to be mindful of such things! Like others I also "pictured" in my mind how useful and just plain neat a shorter utilitarian knife on the GB2 platform could be. There are lots of other variations possible using this basic knife "canvas" too, and in every case you end up with a super smooth action and quality materials because that's how it started!

My thoughts were also for those of you who are limited to a 3" carry blade length,...as this would be a fine way for you to be able to experience the super slick "action" of GB2. I think Spyderco would have a winner here with a factory version of something similar.

So,... I went ahead and made up my own variation (lots of pics below :-),...which I have nicknamed: The Spyderco Gayle Bradley 2 "Sparrow" Conversion. The added finger choil outline shape reminds me of the sparrows I feed in my back yard. Although lots of knives get a similar look with a factory finger choil,...it just wasn't seen on the GB2,...until now!

I really wanted a small knife that wouldn't draw any attention when I have a meal in a public setting, ....lately at Whole Foods in a local mall,... but that also had a really satisfying tactile feel that is the Gayle Bradley 2 when deploying. I hate plastic knives, and there's something really nice, and much more satisfying with using a proper tool in a size and configuration that won't draw any attention.

So the "Sparrow" was conceived, and about 7 hours later was finally hatched. (Edited: that turned 14 hours after I changed to a near FFG as outlined later in this thread) I used a magic marker to lay out the basic blade shape, and using my Jewelry repair grade Foredom flexible shaft machine S L O W L Y cut the blade to within a mm or so of my line with a thin 1" diameter stone cut-off disc.

A water tub was nearby, and the blade was dipped every 2 seconds or so of cutting. I was careful to never get that sound of a hot blade hitting water. No tell tale blue color anywhere either. I cut the thinnest area first at the tip, as the thicker steel behind helped to act as a heat sink. I also cut there at a very slow RPM anyway, just to be safe. A 1/2" drum sander was used to finish shape, first with 120 grit and then 320 grit. The steel is so hard the 320 grit eventually smooths over and imparts a high polish to the steel, as is shown in the added finger choil area photo.

I chose the GB2 because S M O O T H seems almost too simple to describe this folder,...but that's what it is. I made one internal change though. I drilled (8) 1 mm small holes in each phosphor bronze washer with a 1mm round bur, and then came in with a 1.5mm round bur to create a small "cup" on one side that does NOT go all the way through. I removed any burs on both sides of the washers on a fine sharpening stone.

The cup side of the washers face the blade, and is much better at holding the mixture of moly paste (from Air Rifle Headquarters), and machine oil I like to use for lubrication. The moly cuts down drastically on wear over time, and I also use the paste without oil on the detent ball track and lock face as it stays in place better than oil. I also added a smoothed over ramp for the detent ball, and that really helps smooth over the transition of the ball over the blade's tang in opening.

The butt end was a bit more difficult to work, as there was a liner lightening hole in the way I had to work around. The flat sloping liner edge was the "start" of the removed hole, and I removed just enough to get it reasonably flat. In case you haven't noticed, you do lose one hourglass standoff with this conversion, but the shorter knife is plenty strong without it. The rear clip mounting holes are also lost, so tip down carry for now, unless I decide to try to drill and tap a right hand tip up set of holes. But it's quite comfortable this way so I probably won't bother.

With the smaller size of the knife, I decided to cut down an extra Spyderco clip and reshape the new tip to get a little more bend "up". All edges were also smoothed of the stamping marks and all corners beveled. It's barely felt while using the knife now, and looks better for this size knife to my eyes. (I did the same to my Spyderco Para 3 clip recently also)

I also added the often seen access notch to the release tab, and opened up around the Spydie Hole for cleaner access to the hole from both sides. You do take a little off the lock bar width in doing this, but as it's very near the locking face it isn't an issue in my mind as there isn't enough leverage at that point to matter. A small pinky finger cutout was also added, and feels comfy to my medium sized hand.

Oh,...when I first got the knife I took it apart and beveled both the inside and outside (scale side) of the stainless steel liner edges. The scale facing corners were beveled and rounded more than the inner edges, and it much more comfortable to the hand this way. The G10 scales were slightly rounded off too, with a final "polish" on the edges using a burnisher.

A Sharpie magic marker handle works fine as a polish burnisher, but I used a piece of Titanium Rod laying around from my Business in making Titanium Self Defense sticks. Using a burnisher to polish G10 is quick, and much easier to control where you "don't" want to polish!

Anyway, I plan on doing another one once I find another used one at a good price, but with keeping a more pointed tip. (this used GB2 was like new and cost me $110.00 on the bay)

[Ti Rod Tactical]

....a few more photos

[hoimin]

This is so cute! Great work, Ti Rod Tactical!

I had mocked up some options for chopping down the blade, which proved interesting due to the hollow grind. I think you found the path of least resistance (and maximum edge retained).

[Ti Rod Tactical]

Thanks,.... The blade now has a 2-3/4" cutting edge, and is 3" in length. Cutting into the liner hilt to make a useful sized finger choil helped keep the cutting edge as long as possible, and is actually more comfortable for me when using the thumb over the jimping now using the choil.

I used a US "Nickle" to help shape the finger choil, BTW,...as it makes it easier to get a uniform shape. Most of the choil is actually cut in using a 1" thin stone cutoff disc, and putting the nickle into the work area shows where more has to come off. The cutoff disc works faster and with less heat than trying to sand it all out. It is also much easier to control where you "want" to take metal away, without affecting surrounding area you don't want to touch! Once I'm "close", the 1/2" drum sander with 320 grit blends it all even.

I had fun doing it,....and I thought I'd get some of you on the lookout for a GB2 with a broken tip at a giveaway price if you didn't want to chop down a newer one for a shorter GB2! I have a few, and several GB1's too so I didn't mind modding a complete one.

I am pleased with the result, as the GB2 has an even longer blade than the original GB and appeared to me a bit "stabby" shaped, especially in a mall setting. But so far nobody gives it a second glance in it's new size and shape :-)

....and the action on the GB2,..OH SO SWEET,...just like before the work! :)

[abbazaba]

Very nice! That turned out great!

[Slicendice]

I would be in for a 3" GB2

[bpahk]

Nice! I'd totally buy a production version of that

I've always been on the fence with the gb1 and gb2 but a 3" version I'd buy in a second

[Ti Rod Tactical]

Just to give you an idea if a more pointed 3" version is possible with the GB2 or, as shown here the GB1, ....here is my early version Gayle Bradley with solid liners made into a 3" blade length of the more pointed variety. This would be a great EDC blade shape also for those in a 3" max length location to stay legal. The top knife is an unaltered Gayle Bradley (1), later version with the skeletonized scales so you can better see what's changed.

As you can see, I also rounded the pointy butt end, as I carry this in my waistband with my belt over the clip and the point was constantly digging in to my side, especially noticed when sitting. I carry as far to the side as I can, and now with the rounded butt it doesn't dig in. Carrying this way the knife is totally hidden, once I pull up about an inch of my shirt up to create a "flap" of material, in order to cover the part of the knife still showing above my waistband. My cell phone case hides any of the full length pocket clip, or if I add one of my shortened clips, the belt pretty much covers the clip entirely.

Also, this older GB1 arrived to me with a wonderful natural patina, and the original owner(s) used it a LOT! However, the knife was not maintained as I would have, and the stainless liner areas where the phosphor bronze washers touch needed paint remover to take off the dried on red grease remnants.

The lockup is also somewhere around 75-80%. This was especially troubling with the original design having no recess opening to release the lock. With such a late lockup, even LESS room was there to get your thumb in to release and close the blade. So relieving the non-lock side scale was a no brainer here. The detent ball has also worn,...about 70% left of where it started with a noticeable flat spot. I believe the extremely heavy lockbar tension on this particular model contributes to that result over the average liner or frame lock. For now it opens and closes fine, and will address that should there come a time where it becomes an issue by changing out the detent ball.

Oh,...in case you're wondering there is NO blade play once properly adjusted, and with proper lubes will get many more years of regular use. (the moly paste will virtually stop additional wear at the lockface I'd think) At some point going up in pivot diameter to .1875" (stock is .176" if I remember correctly),... and biasing the hole toward the lock when enlarging for the bigger pivot should give the knife a much earlier lockup, at least that's the plan if I reach 100% lockup and I'm still breathing! :-)

Anyway, I think a GB2 could be modified to have a similar pointy tip as my GB1, even at 3" blade length.

[hovan2yourknives]

Well,... I got a little tired of waiting,...and at age 61 I have to be mindful of such things! :-) Like others I also "pictured" in my mind how useful and just plain neat a shorter utilitarian knife on the GB2 platform could be. There are lots of other variations possible using this basic knife "canvas" too, and in every case you end up with a super smooth action and quality materials because that's how it started!

That looks great!! I just posted some photos of minor mods I did to mine, in a new thread, and it took a couple of hours.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=75719

I can't imagine doing that much work in 7 hours. Great job! I like the idea of putting the "mini-choil" to have unobstructed access to the Spydie Hole. If you can imagine the rest of the knife being what it was...do you think that cutout would be awkward ergonomically?

-Hovan

[Ti Rod Tactical]

Hi,...yes,...7 hours of work is quite a bit of time, but I was a bench jewelry repairman and diamond setter for about 35 years before I retired so I'm still pretty good with my hands and eyes. Working with fine jewelry over 35 years is a great patience builder also!

The M4 steel is pretty hard, and you have to work slow to keep heat away,...so just cutting the blade down took over an hour. The finger choil was picky too (about 1-1/2 hours), you can't add it back if you cut too much,...and I wanted a uniform choil,...hence using a US Nickle as a guide in forming the finger choil cut out. (also have to be mindful of where the stop pin hits, and avoid those areas) Smoothing all SS liner corners and the scale edges a few hours too, and I was using a 1/2" drum sander on a Foredom Flexable Shaft machine (glorified Dremel),...using 120 and 320 grit drums. I can't stand knife sharp edges on liners and scales. :-) Shortening and reprofiling the pocket clip about 20 minutes, as I smoothed all the stamping marks off the sides and beveled the edges, again with the sanding drum. The clip is basically "invisible" in hand now.

Adding the mini-choil to have unobstructed access to the Spydie hole actually improves ergonomics in my hand. When the knife is held with the 1st finger in the factory finger coil area and thumb on the jimping, the middle finger passes completely over the new access choil.

When held with the 1st finger in the new forward finger choil, the middle finger 2nd knuckle rests over the release tab, and as this finger is angled backward with this grip, the skin between the 1st and 2nd joint on the middle finger rides comfortably IN the mini choil area. Also, when releasing the blade, the thumb has easier access to the release tab, and allows use of using the side of the thumb rather than just the tip, which is much more comfortable for me. (I did smooth over the rather sharp corner of the release tab as well :-)

Oh,...at first I opened up around the Spydie hole on the non-lock side only, as I'm right handed. This was OK for most of my use, but I missed being able to see "through" the hole, and I do use the knife left handed also,... as anyone who has one of the GB2 knows they are so smooth they get addicting to play with. So even though you have to take a little out of the lock bar to clear the the hole for left handed opening, it was a non issue in the end.

[Ti Rod Tactical]

In the interest of full disclosure,....I thought I should post an update on my Mini GB2.

While I very much wanted to keep the Spydie and Gayle Bradley's logo's on the blade, I also wanted to see just how much "extra" performance I could get as a slicer, without the hollow ground "hump" transition getting in the way slightly. Being a practical and curious sort,...the hump went and so did some of the logos.

As much as I miss the logo's, I and everyone else knows what this started out as,....and there is still the Spyderco name, Blade steel designation, and Country of manufacture remaining on the blade.

The blade stock is a little thinner now overall too, and the blade profile very near a full Flat Grind. Laying a business card over the blade, just a "hint" of the hollow grind dip remains. I used 2 layers of electrical tape over the first few millimeters of the cutting edge to both protect my fingers, and also to protect the original "behind the edge" profile. You can still see some of the original vertical grind lines just behind the cutting edge if you look close.

After just a few days of use,...I've found the knife slices better for such things as really ripe tomatoes, cheeses, and even various cuts of meat. Where it is mostly improved is in making finer slices on sticky foods,...such as cheese. and on delicate foods like really ripe tomatoes.

Oh,....the M4 is hard to work, REALLY! Working slow to avoid heat, I went trough about 40 of my 320 grit 1/2" diameter sanding drums. They would "cut" into the steel for just a short while, before the grit would smooth over and become much less effective. The process was slow and taxing,...about 7 more hours into just this re-profile of the blade grind, including about 2 hours of final hand finishing to blend some areas more smoothly. I found the M4 about as hard and tough as I've ever worked on,..and it's no surprise why sharpening it is difficult for some!

In the end I would do it all again! (for those of you wondering) To my fingers it feels like a FFG blade, with no dips or defects,....but of course flash lighting accents every hand finishing mark.

However, in hand with just about 4 days of use, the blade has started to take on a rich patina and will eventually cover any tiny hand finish marks. The photos were taken just 2 days ago, when the patina was just starting. It's looking really good now with a little darkening,...and in a few months?

So off to Whole Foods to grab a bite, .......and work really hard on my patina! :rolleyes:

A few pics:

[cabfrank]

You are skillful, patient, and the result is fantastic. Thanks for posting. I think Jazz is really going to love this