Making knife scales isn't hard
Making knife scales isn't hard
I'm posting this because of the new mule teams coming out and guys not knowing where to go to find handles that fit well. I was there at one time. It's frustrating. I finally got sick of some of my favorite knives that had handles that didn't feel right or, like the mule team, didn't have scales at all. So I set out to make something for myself. Eventually I'll move to some sheaths too, but right now I'm trying to get handle making work well. I'm still at the baby stages but that's all you need to make some really good handles and once you see how easy it is you'll start wondering about what else you can do with knives. I'll start with a list of everything I need to make a basic set of functional scales for a knife. I'll focus on the mule blades.
Halpern scales are nice but they don't fit the best.
Go to woodcrafters, they have a lot of what you need. You can also go someplace online like Texas knife supply but they have higher end stuff that's more expensive than what I saw at woodcrafters. Online places also have G10 and bushings if that's what you want to use instead of wood and pins. If you want to go really fancy places like bad dogs burl source has some really, really nice knife scales and you can choose the exact pieces you want.
Harbor freight has a bunch of stuff you need on the cheap. Starting out you don't need much.
So to start:
Cheap scales in good wood. You can buy a set of precut scales for like 5 bucks. Buy a couple in case you mess up.
Buy some 3/16 pins or bushings. That's the size of the holes in the mule team. They're pretty common. You can get brass, stainless, or nickel pins.
A belt sander. I just picked up a 1"x30" at harbor freight for about 30 bucks. They come with an 80 grit belt. You can use that and only that as a belt to start. It'll last a little while unless you're grinding a bunch of metal. If you want better belts or a good selection you'll have to find someplace online or whatever. I havent needed them yet so I haven't looked too much. Once you see what this little thing can do you'll start thinking about regrinding blades and making handles for your other knives.
Buy some sandpaper sheets from 60 grit up to however high you feel like going. Woodcrafters only had up to about 1200 grit.
Some good epoxy. Ask the guys at woodcrafters. They'll point you in the right direction.
If you want to die the epoxy some color then buy the pigment too. I bought some black pigment and it works great so far.
You need a drill and 3/16 drill bit. You can buy a used one from a pawn shop on the cheap. Just buy some good bits, they'll make your life easier.
A thin file to saw the pins.
Buy two decent clamps, they cost about 3 bucks at harbor freight.
A hammer to peen the pins if you want. You don't really need to do this if you're using epoxy but you can if you want.
A pen, pencil, or marker.
Something to mix the epoxy in and with. You can use a bottle cap and some toothpicks. No big deal.
A set of pliers to manipulate the pin once it's in the hole. Unless you're using a drill press the hole angles on the scales will probably be off just a little and the pin can get stuck. Not a huge deal.
Some place to keep the stuff. The only thing you probably want to go outside for is when you're using the grinder, sanding, or drilling. Everything else can be done at your kitchen table.
________________________
So get the knife blank. Figure out which specific piece you want. Align the grain how you want. Trace the pattern of the knife on each scale. I draw it on the presentation side of the piece.
Clamp the blade to the piece of wood and drill out the pin holes. Try to keep it at a right angle. You don't need to be perfect but you need to be close. Start to drill from the presentation side because the wood will probably crack a little on the side where the drill bit exits. Keep that hidden on the inside of the scale. You can sand out the small torn out parts out of the scale but you may take too much off doing that. Repeat the step for the other scale. Now you have two blocks of wood with the knife outline drawn on it with the pin holes already drilled.
Now cut the pins. It'll take a couple of minutes to file or saw through them. Cut them a little bigger than you think you'll need. You can grind them down later very easily.
Now line up the blank and to blocks of wood. Put the pin in so you can see if you need to wallow out either hole at all. Once your pins fit pretty tight but not too tight, remove the blade so both blocks are held together with just the pins.
Go to your sander and sand down almost but not all the way to the outline you drew. Both scales should be pretty even around the outside and you'll start to see the makings of your knife handles. It'll take about an hour's worth of work up til this point, not including the supply run.
Remove the pins and rough out how you want the handle to be shaped. If you want flat, then make it flat. If you want it rounded, make it rounded. You can rough out a palm swell. It's easy and takes about 20-30 minutes at the most. Just remember to go slow. You can always take off but once it's gone, it's gone. Take time to compare both sides. Keep the rough out pretty even on both sides. You'll have to eyeball a lot.
Don't mess with the inside of the scales too much. You want them as straight as possible. Unless you have a steady hand and a good straight edge, leave them be. You do need to make a quick pass across the belt to rough up the surfaces but don't take anything off.
Now go in and wash the scales and knife blank. Remove any dust, oil, or anything. Try not to touch the tang too much after you wash it. Let them all dry.
Now go mix your epoxy. If you bought quick setting epoxy then you need to move fast. The stuff I have I can mess around with for about 45 minutes before needing to leave it alone to cure.
Have what you need to mix and apply the epoxy in front of you. Also have the pins, scales, blade, clamps, and hammer in front of you. Have several rags or paper towels, too. Lay some newspaper down on your table to catch drips and so you can lay the stuff down .
Take the epoxy and smear it all over the inside of each scale. Push a little extra into the pin holes. You don't need a ton of the stuff but you want just a little bit to squeeze out when you clamp it.
Now push the pins into one of the scales. Put the knife blank onto the pins. Put the other scale on.
Clamp all of the stuff together. Wipe off the epoxy coming out just to keep things a little neat. Don't worry about getting epoxy on anything on the outside, it's going to be sanded off anyway. Set the clamped up knife on something and let it sit overnight.
Heres mine curing right now. It's a single pin. I could've had a lot more but with this knife it'd be purely for aesthetics.
Notice the extra epoxy and long *** pin? I made a mistake on my first knife and this is me making up for it.
The next day take the clamps off. Now you have a rough knife. Go sand it down to its final shape. Whatever you feel comfortable with. Thin, fat, round, or square. Your pins should be as easy to sand down with the belt sander as the wood. Remember to go slow.
Now that you have a knife with the handle shaped how you want it, take the sandpaper sheets and remove the belt marks. 80 grit belts leave a fairly nasty looking finish after I'm done removing the scratches using the sheets, it looks nice. This is the most time consuming part, hand sanding it. It'll take at least an hour to just get the belt's scratches out, depending on how hard the wood is.
Once that's done you're pretty much set. Take some gunstock oil or similar and smear it on. You have yourself a knife with handles made by you for you. Total time to work it is maybe 3 hours, and that's pushing it. Letting it cure takes 12 to 24 hours, that gives you time to come onto the forums and share just how easy it is. The total cost? About $150 to buy what you need. For the knife specifically? Well, if you spend $5 on the scales, then about 8 bucks. Most of the stuff you can use for other things.
Hope this helps. You don't need much time, effort, tools, money, or experience. You just need a list of what you need (which I hope I helped with), a little bit of time, a little bit of patience, some simple know how, and an idea of what you want your knife to feel like.
When you're done you should have something close to this. It wasn't hard and I'm definitely no craftsman. I went just a little too thin right at the front but it's still comfortable. I think it took me longer to write this up than to finish the knife after curing.
Halpern scales are nice but they don't fit the best.
Go to woodcrafters, they have a lot of what you need. You can also go someplace online like Texas knife supply but they have higher end stuff that's more expensive than what I saw at woodcrafters. Online places also have G10 and bushings if that's what you want to use instead of wood and pins. If you want to go really fancy places like bad dogs burl source has some really, really nice knife scales and you can choose the exact pieces you want.
Harbor freight has a bunch of stuff you need on the cheap. Starting out you don't need much.
So to start:
Cheap scales in good wood. You can buy a set of precut scales for like 5 bucks. Buy a couple in case you mess up.
Buy some 3/16 pins or bushings. That's the size of the holes in the mule team. They're pretty common. You can get brass, stainless, or nickel pins.
A belt sander. I just picked up a 1"x30" at harbor freight for about 30 bucks. They come with an 80 grit belt. You can use that and only that as a belt to start. It'll last a little while unless you're grinding a bunch of metal. If you want better belts or a good selection you'll have to find someplace online or whatever. I havent needed them yet so I haven't looked too much. Once you see what this little thing can do you'll start thinking about regrinding blades and making handles for your other knives.
Buy some sandpaper sheets from 60 grit up to however high you feel like going. Woodcrafters only had up to about 1200 grit.
Some good epoxy. Ask the guys at woodcrafters. They'll point you in the right direction.
If you want to die the epoxy some color then buy the pigment too. I bought some black pigment and it works great so far.
You need a drill and 3/16 drill bit. You can buy a used one from a pawn shop on the cheap. Just buy some good bits, they'll make your life easier.
A thin file to saw the pins.
Buy two decent clamps, they cost about 3 bucks at harbor freight.
A hammer to peen the pins if you want. You don't really need to do this if you're using epoxy but you can if you want.
A pen, pencil, or marker.
Something to mix the epoxy in and with. You can use a bottle cap and some toothpicks. No big deal.
A set of pliers to manipulate the pin once it's in the hole. Unless you're using a drill press the hole angles on the scales will probably be off just a little and the pin can get stuck. Not a huge deal.
Some place to keep the stuff. The only thing you probably want to go outside for is when you're using the grinder, sanding, or drilling. Everything else can be done at your kitchen table.
________________________
So get the knife blank. Figure out which specific piece you want. Align the grain how you want. Trace the pattern of the knife on each scale. I draw it on the presentation side of the piece.
Clamp the blade to the piece of wood and drill out the pin holes. Try to keep it at a right angle. You don't need to be perfect but you need to be close. Start to drill from the presentation side because the wood will probably crack a little on the side where the drill bit exits. Keep that hidden on the inside of the scale. You can sand out the small torn out parts out of the scale but you may take too much off doing that. Repeat the step for the other scale. Now you have two blocks of wood with the knife outline drawn on it with the pin holes already drilled.
Now cut the pins. It'll take a couple of minutes to file or saw through them. Cut them a little bigger than you think you'll need. You can grind them down later very easily.
Now line up the blank and to blocks of wood. Put the pin in so you can see if you need to wallow out either hole at all. Once your pins fit pretty tight but not too tight, remove the blade so both blocks are held together with just the pins.
Go to your sander and sand down almost but not all the way to the outline you drew. Both scales should be pretty even around the outside and you'll start to see the makings of your knife handles. It'll take about an hour's worth of work up til this point, not including the supply run.
Remove the pins and rough out how you want the handle to be shaped. If you want flat, then make it flat. If you want it rounded, make it rounded. You can rough out a palm swell. It's easy and takes about 20-30 minutes at the most. Just remember to go slow. You can always take off but once it's gone, it's gone. Take time to compare both sides. Keep the rough out pretty even on both sides. You'll have to eyeball a lot.
Don't mess with the inside of the scales too much. You want them as straight as possible. Unless you have a steady hand and a good straight edge, leave them be. You do need to make a quick pass across the belt to rough up the surfaces but don't take anything off.
Now go in and wash the scales and knife blank. Remove any dust, oil, or anything. Try not to touch the tang too much after you wash it. Let them all dry.
Now go mix your epoxy. If you bought quick setting epoxy then you need to move fast. The stuff I have I can mess around with for about 45 minutes before needing to leave it alone to cure.
Have what you need to mix and apply the epoxy in front of you. Also have the pins, scales, blade, clamps, and hammer in front of you. Have several rags or paper towels, too. Lay some newspaper down on your table to catch drips and so you can lay the stuff down .
Take the epoxy and smear it all over the inside of each scale. Push a little extra into the pin holes. You don't need a ton of the stuff but you want just a little bit to squeeze out when you clamp it.
Now push the pins into one of the scales. Put the knife blank onto the pins. Put the other scale on.
Clamp all of the stuff together. Wipe off the epoxy coming out just to keep things a little neat. Don't worry about getting epoxy on anything on the outside, it's going to be sanded off anyway. Set the clamped up knife on something and let it sit overnight.
Heres mine curing right now. It's a single pin. I could've had a lot more but with this knife it'd be purely for aesthetics.
Notice the extra epoxy and long *** pin? I made a mistake on my first knife and this is me making up for it.
The next day take the clamps off. Now you have a rough knife. Go sand it down to its final shape. Whatever you feel comfortable with. Thin, fat, round, or square. Your pins should be as easy to sand down with the belt sander as the wood. Remember to go slow.
Now that you have a knife with the handle shaped how you want it, take the sandpaper sheets and remove the belt marks. 80 grit belts leave a fairly nasty looking finish after I'm done removing the scratches using the sheets, it looks nice. This is the most time consuming part, hand sanding it. It'll take at least an hour to just get the belt's scratches out, depending on how hard the wood is.
Once that's done you're pretty much set. Take some gunstock oil or similar and smear it on. You have yourself a knife with handles made by you for you. Total time to work it is maybe 3 hours, and that's pushing it. Letting it cure takes 12 to 24 hours, that gives you time to come onto the forums and share just how easy it is. The total cost? About $150 to buy what you need. For the knife specifically? Well, if you spend $5 on the scales, then about 8 bucks. Most of the stuff you can use for other things.
Hope this helps. You don't need much time, effort, tools, money, or experience. You just need a list of what you need (which I hope I helped with), a little bit of time, a little bit of patience, some simple know how, and an idea of what you want your knife to feel like.
When you're done you should have something close to this. It wasn't hard and I'm definitely no craftsman. I went just a little too thin right at the front but it's still comfortable. I think it took me longer to write this up than to finish the knife after curing.
Last edited by Bodog on Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
How did it transform from a Mule to a ZT? :)
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
It's a collaboration :)
But for real though, when the MT is done I'm going to replace the ZT photo. I just needed something to show.
But for real though, when the MT is done I'm going to replace the ZT photo. I just needed something to show.
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Very informative.I have burl scales from bad dog burl and they aresweeeeeeeeeeet.if I had time I would do it youre way.wrapping them in paracord is nice fit also pluss you have that extra cord with u if you need it
- jabba359
- Member
- Posts: 4958
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:07 pm
- Location: North Hollywood, CA U.S.A. Earth
- Contact:
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Nice tutorial. Having made a few Mule scales myself, I highly recommend taping off the blade edge before working on it.
There are a couple of other good tutorials. Quickbeam made a tutorial that inspired me to try out my first set: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35469" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hector Castro also has a good tutorial for those with router tables:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40768" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40984" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
There are a couple of other good tutorials. Quickbeam made a tutorial that inspired me to try out my first set: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35469" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hector Castro also has a good tutorial for those with router tables:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40768" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40984" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Capt'n Boatsalot
- Member
- Posts: 659
- Joined: Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:50 pm
- Location: Iowa
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
This is awesome, thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'm going to try this on my next Mule!
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
I've put scales on 8 or 9 blanks so far. I've bought blanks from a guy I see at knife shows, and I've put scales on at least on skeleton neck knife. There are plenty of production knives available these days that come without handles and would be good for this kind of project, and there are a number of reputable places on the net to buy blanks. There are questionable blanks on the net too so you have to watch out a little bit. But back to the main subject, I have a couple of Mules and scales waiting for time to work on them. I am proud to show these off to my friends, but I don't call myself a knifemaker and I don't sell these.
I already had a drill press and a Sears 4" wide belt sander. I'm thinking about getting a few sanding drums to help with more contoured handles.
Before handling the blank very much I tape up the edge so I don't have any accidents. I position the blade tang on the scales and mark the outline. I might saw off some of the wood to make the grinding easier if there is a lot of excess hanging out. Then I drill the holes for bolts. I mostly use the blind bolts but on a few I've used brass pins, I take some careful measurements and countersink the holes for the bolts.
I will contour the front edges of the scales first, and do most of the finishing on them. You don't want to do any sanding there after the scales are on the blade.
Then mix up some epoxy, smear it on, put the screws through the scales and clamp everything together.
After curing I get on with the grinding. This is fairly easy to do, I go slow and check the contours frequently. I haven't done any fancy contours yet, I mostly stay somewhat oval like the basic Bob Dozier knives.
Then comes the hard part for me- the finish sanding. The sides of the scales aren't too hard but the edges and the exposed edges of the tang are harder. You have to use something hard to backup the sandpaper or the wood will sand faster than the metal and leave ridges. The hardest part for me is to keep the edges of the tang smooth and straight for this, but I'm still learning.
This is one of the most recent that I have done:
Here are the parts before starting:
Here is the tang template on the scales:
Here is the contoured end of the scale:
Here is the epoxy starting to cure:
Here is a posed shot of the grinding process:
Here is what it looks like with the grinding almost finished:
Here are some finished shots:
I already had a drill press and a Sears 4" wide belt sander. I'm thinking about getting a few sanding drums to help with more contoured handles.
Before handling the blank very much I tape up the edge so I don't have any accidents. I position the blade tang on the scales and mark the outline. I might saw off some of the wood to make the grinding easier if there is a lot of excess hanging out. Then I drill the holes for bolts. I mostly use the blind bolts but on a few I've used brass pins, I take some careful measurements and countersink the holes for the bolts.
I will contour the front edges of the scales first, and do most of the finishing on them. You don't want to do any sanding there after the scales are on the blade.
Then mix up some epoxy, smear it on, put the screws through the scales and clamp everything together.
After curing I get on with the grinding. This is fairly easy to do, I go slow and check the contours frequently. I haven't done any fancy contours yet, I mostly stay somewhat oval like the basic Bob Dozier knives.
Then comes the hard part for me- the finish sanding. The sides of the scales aren't too hard but the edges and the exposed edges of the tang are harder. You have to use something hard to backup the sandpaper or the wood will sand faster than the metal and leave ridges. The hardest part for me is to keep the edges of the tang smooth and straight for this, but I'm still learning.
This is one of the most recent that I have done:
Here are the parts before starting:
Here is the tang template on the scales:
Here is the contoured end of the scale:
Here is the epoxy starting to cure:
Here is a posed shot of the grinding process:
Here is what it looks like with the grinding almost finished:
Here are some finished shots:
Last edited by bdblue on Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
(duplicate)
Last edited by bdblue on Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Very informative. Thanks gents.
Bacon. Sometimes beer, but mostly bacon. I like Spydercos.
SpyderNation member #0621
Recently acquired: M390 PM2
On deck: KW Ti Military Exclusive, Slysz Bowie, S90V/CPM154 Manix 2, RN Chap
WRU SHAMAN!
SpyderNation member #0621
Recently acquired: M390 PM2
On deck: KW Ti Military Exclusive, Slysz Bowie, S90V/CPM154 Manix 2, RN Chap
WRU SHAMAN!
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Thanks for all the info just ordered some g10 if all goes well for my mule gonna tackle my manix2.
Recent purchases: orange dragonfly 2, CS exclusive paramilitary2, black g10 large chinese lum :spyder:
Wish list: Manix 2 cruwear, navaja, SB delica and SB Caly 3.5 :spyder:
Top 3 edc : s110v paramilitary2 , orange vg10 dragonfly, and Cruwear military :spyder:
Wish list: Manix 2 cruwear, navaja, SB delica and SB Caly 3.5 :spyder:
Top 3 edc : s110v paramilitary2 , orange vg10 dragonfly, and Cruwear military :spyder:
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
(sorry- duplicate post)
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
(duplicate)
Last edited by bdblue on Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
(duplicate)
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Thanks for all the great info Bodog and everyone else that has contributed. This is on my to do list and this is very helpful. :)
- HarleyXJGuy
- Member
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- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:50 pm
- Location: Michigan
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Not trying to talk down to you or insult your intelligence but get a respirator for sanding on G 10adam569 wrote:Thanks for all the info just ordered some g10 if all goes well for my mule gonna tackle my manix2.
On my radar: 110V Military, Police 4 and some sweet Rex 45 Military action.
Newest Spydies: S90v Ti Military, Pacific Salt and a special Kiwi.
Newest Spydies: S90v Ti Military, Pacific Salt and a special Kiwi.
- jabba359
- Member
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- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:07 pm
- Location: North Hollywood, CA U.S.A. Earth
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Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Good advice, even when working on wood. Lots of woods have dust that can cause respiratory issues or irritation. G-10 will make glass dust which, I probably don't need to tell you, isn't good for the lungs.HarleyXJGuy wrote:Not trying to talk down to you or insult your intelligence but get a respirator for sanding on G 10adam569 wrote:Thanks for all the info just ordered some g10 if all goes well for my mule gonna tackle my manix2.
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
10 4 I got one put up I use for painting not insulting at all.jabba359 wrote:Good advice, even when working on wood. Lots of woods have dust that can cause respiratory issues or irritation. G-10 will make glass dust which, I probably don't need to tell you, isn't good for the lungs.HarleyXJGuy wrote:Not trying to talk down to you or insult your intelligence but get a respirator for sanding on G 10adam569 wrote:Thanks for all the info just ordered some g10 if all goes well for my mule gonna tackle my manix2.
Recent purchases: orange dragonfly 2, CS exclusive paramilitary2, black g10 large chinese lum :spyder:
Wish list: Manix 2 cruwear, navaja, SB delica and SB Caly 3.5 :spyder:
Top 3 edc : s110v paramilitary2 , orange vg10 dragonfly, and Cruwear military :spyder:
Wish list: Manix 2 cruwear, navaja, SB delica and SB Caly 3.5 :spyder:
Top 3 edc : s110v paramilitary2 , orange vg10 dragonfly, and Cruwear military :spyder:
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
Is this type adequate, or the respirator type...I have a couple slabs of G10, ordered some stabilized California Burl to work on.....next mule...no hurry...no belt sander yet either....just want to get the right stuff....any advice on belt sanders would be welcome...don't want to.go crazy, but don't want garbage either...those 36 by 4 sanders with a second 6 inch round sanding wheel look like the way to go...but I've never done this, so I could be way off..overkill ? Not enough ?? I don't know..2 to 3 hundred is about all I can reasonably spend.
- farnorthdan
- Member
- Posts: 4409
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:32 pm
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
I've yet to try making my own scales but do know about respirator protection, been in the asbestos abatement business for a couple decades now and the respirator shown has a protection level of "0". At a minimum you will need a negative pressure half face for any real protection. I would recommend a North half face with P100 filters, this will protect to down to 3 microns which should be more than adequate for what you are doing.BTG wrote:Is this type adequate, or the respirator type...I have a couple slabs of G10, ordered some stabilized California Burl to work on.....next mule...no hurry...no belt sander yet either....just want to get the right stuff....any advice on belt sanders would be welcome...don't want to.go crazy, but don't want garbage either...those 36 by 4 sanders with a second 6 inch round sanding wheel look like the way to go...but I've never done this, so I could be way off..overkill ? Not enough ?? I don't know..2 to 3 hundred is about all I can reasonably spend.
http://www.discountsafetygear.com/respi ... AtXR8P8HAQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Happy to be part of this great forum and group of down to earth spyderco addicts, Thanks Sal and gang.
My Grails: Lum Tanto folder sprint, Sprint Persian(red), Captain, Manix 2 (M4), SB MT, PM2 M390, CF dodo, Manix2 (CF S90V),Manix2 XL S90V, Zowada CF Balance Rassenti Nivarna, Lil' Nilakka, Tuff, Police 4, Chinook 4, Caly HAP40 52100 Military, S110V Military, Any/All PM2 & Military sprints/exclusives I can get my grubby hands on :) :spyder: :) :spyder: :)
"We may look curious, homely, whatever, but we'll never be called unusable or undependable."
My Grails: Lum Tanto folder sprint, Sprint Persian(red), Captain, Manix 2 (M4), SB MT, PM2 M390, CF dodo, Manix2 (CF S90V),Manix2 XL S90V, Zowada CF Balance Rassenti Nivarna, Lil' Nilakka, Tuff, Police 4, Chinook 4, Caly HAP40 52100 Military, S110V Military, Any/All PM2 & Military sprints/exclusives I can get my grubby hands on :) :spyder: :) :spyder: :)
"We may look curious, homely, whatever, but we'll never be called unusable or undependable."
Re: Making knife scales isn't hard
This is something I would like to start doing. Good thread. Thanks