Spyderco Forums

Does anyone know what group or shop got numbered Nilakkas?

It looks like the one I have seen (and will likely own soon) is the original blade grind sans secondary bevel.

Thanks in advance for any info.

If the number is below 200, it is a collector's number. Good info on the collector's club can be found here:

http://www.paulberetta.com/spy101_numbered_knives.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not sure on the number but am positive you will love the Nilakka, such a cool piece.

Yes, you received a Collector's Club numbered blade (it should just be a 3 digit number without a "V" since it's the first iteration of this model). Being a CC blade, it is one of the pieces of the original run without the improved bevels found on later production runs. If you tell me the actual number, I or someone here can tell you where it likely first came from store-wise. Cheers, Radioactive :)

Thanks all, I had known about forum editions, but not the collectors' club... the knife in question is # 167.

I was actually buying this as a user, but I'd hate to mess this relatively more collectible knife up by re-beveling it! Maybe I need to find someone who will give it a nice case to live in, while I buy a current production one to carry?

awa54 wrote:Thanks all, I had known about forum editions, but not the collectors' club... the knife in question is # 167.

I was actually buying this as a user, but I'd hate to mess this relatively more collectible knife up by re-beveling it! Maybe I need to find someone who will give it a nice case to live in, while I buy a current production one to carry?

Meh, I wouldn't worry about it. Most people don't find the collectors club numbers to be special in any way. Some people would actually rather not have the number on the blade. Only in the rare instance where someone was trying to get knives possessing a certain number would the CC number actually be more desirable. It is a nice assurance that the knife is real, but otherwise use as normal.

Number 167s come from New Graham Knives.

Thanks for the advice tvenuto. I guess I need to read up on re-profiling the edge... I understand that the original geometry is too extreme/delicate for the s30v.

Ironically, I had to do the exact opposite (from micro bevel to scandi) re-work on an Iisakki Jarvenpaa utility/carver, that knife certainly *did* have both a robust enough grind angle and high enough edge hardness to pull off a true Scandinavian flat bevel. That was quite a chore, but the final result was well worth it!

RadioactiveSpyder wrote:Number 167s come from New Graham Knives.

now that I look at the rest of the auction pictures (I was focused on the knife initially) there's a price sticker on the box from that seller!

OK, #167 is in my pocket right now! I received it in the mail this morning and re-profiled the (badly bent) edge while I was on lunch break, you were all absolutely right about this knife; it kicks butt!

The entire belly of the blade was bent over from cutting something too hard, so I started with a 600 grit diamond plate to remove the tweaked part of the edge, then set a new mini-bevel with my 150 grit synthetic Ohmura, moved to the red brick 1k to refine and remove scratches, a few runs on the 2k green brick to minimize burr and polish further, then a fair amount of light work with my brand new Suehiro Rika 5k (this stone is terrific as a final polish on kitchen knives or as pre-polish), then since I was running out of time a few strokes on my J-nat finishing stone and several light strokes on a hard strop loaded with Herb's Yellowstone compound. The result is *fantastic* slicing and very little visual change from the original zero grind.

The fit & finish as well as the basic design are amazing, the blade may not be the most practical design and the handle is pretty heavy, but the overall outcome is a thing of beauty!

I have one of the earlier ones, and I love it. I do baby it though....