Question for the car folks

[uhiforgot]

My car's engine has been acting funny lately, and at the moment don't have the time or money to take it to my mechanic.

Car in question: 2002 Saturn SC1

The engine has been having on and off spells of loss of power, hesitation, and even stalled once at a stop light. This quite literally follows no pattern; might drive perfectly for a few days, and then out of nowhere it starts up and idles eerily at about 600-750rpm (usually idles in park at 1000-1200 or so), or in the middle of a drive will start... behaving strangely (can't think of another word for it) I guess you might call it a "light lurching" sensation when accelerating.

Like a proper paranoid geek, I've thought about the possibility of problems with the:
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Plug wires (it has done that before, but they're in great shape still now)
Injection system
God forbid it should be the timing belt (again, don't know well enough, that's why I'm asking)

I know the best thing to do is to take it to the mechanic, but I can't afford that right now. Are there any cheap and relatively easy to perform things I should try?

[fellyjr]

I would change out the fuel filter as that is one of the cheaper things you can do in the process of elimination. I had a 1969 Camaro that had been stored for a number of years before I bought it and the guy had left only a little fuel in the tank all those years sitting there. The tank got rusty, and when I went to fill it all that rust flaked off and plugged my fuel filter. My car did exactly what your is doing, and like yours, it didn't do it all the time. I had to replace the whole tank to remedy the problem, but it doesn't seem likely that you will have to go to that extreme. That's my two cents worth, due to my past experience. Good luck with it! :)

[Dr. Snubnose]

Are there any cheap and relatively easy to perform things I should try?
hmmmm: try putting butter on all the parts :p Doc :D

[i.v]

I think your best bet is fuel filter \ injection system \ fuel line.
most likely clogged up.
Start with the the fuel filter as it's the easiest to replace for the most part.

[SonnyD]

OK......hold on! First off, there isnn't a Timing Belt, it's a Timing Chain, and I seriously doubt that would be your problem unless you have over 200,000 miles on your car, or havn't done your oil changes in a timely manner.
Are any of your error lights on?.....like Service Engine Soon?
I more then imagine it is your ECTS, which is your Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. It will make your car do a lot of the things your describing. It's a inexpensive part and easy to replace, and is quite common for going bad. It could also be a gummed up EGR valve.
I doubt it's your Fuel filter, they are designed to go on the average 100,000 miles, and unless you've gotten some bad gas lately, it's probably OK.
I drive a Saturn, and have for the last 9 years. If you want to get some more Ideas, and or post your problem, this is the place to go, and you'll find me here, about 75% of the time. Ton's of Free info, and lots of Free help!
http://www.saturnfans.com

Regards Sonny

[Simple Man]

I had an '85 S-10 that was doing roughly the same several, well many, years back. It sounds like an intermittent fuel issue, I'd start with the fuel filter and also try a PCV valve, if it gets hung open, it can be hard to start and run rough.

Another thing I'd try that can't hurt is run a tank with Lucas Fuel Treatment through it, get the larger bottle and mix it a little heavy, it won't hurt it. Try to get out on the highway and blow it out if possible. I have tried most all the additives and Lucas does more than all the others combined.

If you don't have a Haynes/Chilton's manual for it, get one. One or the other, Haynes I think, has a extensive troubleshooting section that has saved me boatloads of money on several vehicles.

[tonydahose]

maybe the O2 sensor? i would take it to a pepboys (i dont know if you have them in your area) or a local chain parts store that will hook up the scannner for free and tell you what codes are popping up. just a heads up for you chrysler/dodge/jeep owners out there. you can read the codes that are popping up by turning the key to on (not past it to start) off,on,off,on and leave it there for a minute or so. if it has a digital odometer it will show you the code right there. if no digital odometer it will flash the check engine light on and off to show you the numbers of the code. 55 (five blinks, a pause and five more blinks) is an all clear. to find out what the other codes mean i would do a search on the internet (you might need the vin number to get an accurate code (it changes in different models in the same year sometimes) i got this info and copied a page of the trouble codes from my old mechanic.

[coltsfan8116]

maybe the O2 sensor? i would take it to a pepboys (i dont know if you have them in your area) or a local chain parts store that will hook it up the the scannner for free and tell you what codes are popping up. just a heads up for you chrysler/dodge/jeep pwners out there. you can read the codes that are popping up by turning the key to on (not past it to start) off,on,off,on and leave it there for a minute or so. if it has a digital odometer it will show you the code right there. if no digital odometer it will flash the check engine light on and off to show you the numbers of the code. 55 (five blinks, a pause and five more blinks) is an all clear. to find out what the other codes mean i would do a search on the internet (you might need the vin number to get an accurate code (it changes in different models in the same year sometimes) i got this info and copied a page of the trouble codes from my old mechanic.

What i was thinking....

[Ed Schempp]

If you have the dealership hook up their computer and do a diagnostic evaluation; it costs 75-100 bucks, but then you can do the service yourself...Take Care...Ed

[Fred Sanford]

I once took my car to e-check and it failed. It failed due to a bad EGR valve. They gave me the diagnostics code right there at the e-check free of charge. I simply had the EGR valve replaced and all was well. I was perfectly capable of replacing it myself I just didn't feel like it and wanted someone else to do it.

[SonnyD]

As I stated, FIRST CHECK THE ECTS SENSOR!.........it's more then likely your problem........... They take about 5 minutes to replace, cost from 10-20, and take a 13mm socket to change. Also check the harness plug that is plugged into it for corrosion!.......go to the website I posted above, check into "Technical" and insert ECTS into Search.....it will show you it's location on top of the Radiator.... (drivers side top)......if that doesn't completely cure it, then you may have to clean your EGR valve. 75% of the running problems with Saturn is in the ECTS....in 2002 it was changed to Brass, but done assume that just because yours is a 2002, that yours is Brass. The replacement will be Brass, you can Thank me Later :D
Regards Sonny

[RLR]

I'm betting on MAP sensor. From autorepair.about.com
_________________
A. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is mounted on the intake manifold. The MAP sensor measures the intake manifold pressure. Engine vacuum is related to engine load and RPM changes. A high vacuum signal indicates a low intake manifold pressure. A low vacuum signal indicates a high intake manifold pressure. The higher the pressure signal, the greater the load being placed on the engine.

The MAP sensor voltage is scaled by the PCM to pressure (kPa or psi). A high pressure (atmospheric pressure) produces an output of 4.5 to 5.0 volts, about 95 to 105 kPa (14 to 15 psi). A low pressure (engine vacuum) produces about 0.5 to 0.90 volts, about 37 to 50 kPa (5 to 7psi). The MAP sensor is also used to calculate barometric pressure under certain conditions.

By monitoring the MAP sensor output voltage signal, the PCM determines the manifold pressure and can increase or decrease the injector On-time (or pulse width). The PCM also uses the MAP sensor signal to help control fuel, ignition timing, canister purge duty cycle and EGR operation.
________________
Had two vehicles with bad MAP sensors who did the same thing you describe...

[SonnyD]

NOPE.....ECTS :D

Regards Sonny

[Fred Sanford]

I actually can't wait to see what it is. This is pretty cool. :)

[uhiforgot]

try putting butter on all the parts :p Doc :D

Tempting as it may be, I'm all out of automotive grade butter ]accurate [/I]experience in the past for anyone in my family, but this is also in reference to cars from 8-10 years prior to my car. If I get stumped after a few weeks, I'll have my mechanic do this.

Gentlemen, I thank you all a million times over, and will keep you posted in regards to the progress :D

[SonnyD]

If your ECTS is Brass when you remove it, it's probably ok.....but still check for corrosion on the plug. You might have a look at the TPS plug as well. I'd just about bet 100% that it's one of those 2 sensors, or their electrical plugs.
Regards Sonny

[mikewww]

I had a very similar experience with a C-Class Mercedes Benz. Turned out to be bad contact with fuel pump relay and its socket. I just pulled the bugger out and plugged it back in again a few times. Problem solved !

I now keep a spare relay in the glove box, but have not needed it yet. Sort of an Anti-Murphy's Law thing !

Mike