It has been brought to my attention that with the different steels you get different qualities. I am sure that there are blades steels out there that have a "brittle" quality to them. With that said, which blade steel would you prefer on your SD knife?
TQ
Which Steel would you prefer on your SD knife?
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travis quaas
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Thus far, I've had great results with S30V; it holds an edge very well, has not shown signs of rust when other steels have, and the hardness has prevented chipping.
The down side of S30V is that it's tougher to sharpen. So far, that's the only "drawback" that I can find, although it's not a big problem.
I've also had good luck with ATS-34 and BG-42 steels.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
The down side of S30V is that it's tougher to sharpen. So far, that's the only "drawback" that I can find, although it's not a big problem.
I've also had good luck with ATS-34 and BG-42 steels.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
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glockman99
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I like VG-10 the best. 154CM seems to be pretty good, too.
Dann Fassnacht Aberdeen, WA glockman99@hotmail.com ICQ: 53675663
Dann Fassnacht Aberdeen, WA glockman99@hotmail.com ICQ: 53675663
I don't think steel matters a whole lot for an SD knife, unless you include hard use military combat knives. If the knife holds together and cuts for 30 seconds, that will probably be sufficient. I think any reasonable commercial steel will work. I worry more about design and heat treatment.
For example, early production Fairbairn-Sykes daggers, AKA British Commando knives, were originally heat treated hard, and the blades broke -- a problem exacerbated by a weak stick tang and a right angle at the guard that acted as a stress riser. Bad design, bad heat treatment.
Later production was heat treated soft, and the blades bent. The theory behind this was that one could find two or three stones and straighten a bent blade, but there is no field expedient repair for a broken blade.
That doesn't mean I don't want good steel in my letter opening, apple peeling pocket knife, which I may use as a last ditch SD tool.
Qship
For example, early production Fairbairn-Sykes daggers, AKA British Commando knives, were originally heat treated hard, and the blades broke -- a problem exacerbated by a weak stick tang and a right angle at the guard that acted as a stress riser. Bad design, bad heat treatment.
Later production was heat treated soft, and the blades bent. The theory behind this was that one could find two or three stones and straighten a bent blade, but there is no field expedient repair for a broken blade.
That doesn't mean I don't want good steel in my letter opening, apple peeling pocket knife, which I may use as a last ditch SD tool.
Qship
Qship Posted: I think any reasonable commercial steel will work. I worry more about design and heat treatment.
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I have to agree with you wholeheartedly. Far too much worry these days is spent on what kind of steel is used in knife manufacture.
The heat treat is where the key lies. A good heat treat can make a great knife out of mediocre or average steel.
But great steel and a crappy heat treat make a crappy knife.
One of the reasons I like Strider Knives is because Paul Bos heat treats their knives, and he's probably the best heat treater alive. One of the reasons Striders are so durable is because of this heat treat.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
>>>>
I have to agree with you wholeheartedly. Far too much worry these days is spent on what kind of steel is used in knife manufacture.
The heat treat is where the key lies. A good heat treat can make a great knife out of mediocre or average steel.
But great steel and a crappy heat treat make a crappy knife.
One of the reasons I like Strider Knives is because Paul Bos heat treats their knives, and he's probably the best heat treater alive. One of the reasons Striders are so durable is because of this heat treat.
Sniper -- One Shot, One Kill Email: ST8PEN01@aol.com
Interesting that this is brought up. I recently chipped out an edge on my s30v Gunting doing what I thought was a routine (maybe a little tough) task, that my aus8 endura would have slept through. However, the chips came out quick with the 204. I don't think that the steel matters so much, but I would go to a steel with a lower rockwell, and easier to sharpen, instead of super hard.--Joe
Edited by - dijos on 1/30/2004 6:29:12 PM
Edited by - dijos on 1/30/2004 6:29:12 PM
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Ed Schempp
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I've been studing and using some San Mai Steels the last couple of years. San Mai offers high edge hardness wrapped with an outer ductile clad steel. The effect is synergistic, more blade ductility, high edge hardness. An edge quenched blade would offer these properties as well, but not to the extent of San Mai. There are many different alloy cores offered with with 410 or 416SS clad. Many cultures best weapons utilized San Mai technology.