Spyderedges On Curved Blades: The Ultimate Rough Cutting Machines

JD Spydo · #1

You know there are times when an answer to your question that you have been looking for is right there in front of you and you just can't see it because maybe it's just too obvious :rolleyes: . But on the other hand I guess I have seen it for years but didn't give it full thought or complete recognition. But I have sort of taken inventory of the Spyderedged models that I use the most and get the best performance out of. And without any micron of a doubt it's the Spyderco Spyderedged ( fully serrated) blades that I use and get the vast majority of optimal performance from which are curved blades the very most.

Take Hawkbills for instance: I get far more performance from a fully serrated Hawkbill than I do a plain edged model>> and I'm talking of the exact same model too. For instance the Spyderhawk model that I've just recently been bragging big about is one model that I have 3 of the Spyderedged models and 2 of the plain edged models. I use the Spyderedged Spyderhawks probably 20 times as much as I do the plain edged ones.

I won't stop at Hawkbills either>> because it seems like any blade with either a convex blade like the Ayoob, Persian or Szabo styled models seem to perform better with a Spyderedge. And the concave ( Hawkbills) or Reverse S blades to a large degree as well seem to utilize the Spyderedge much more because of the constant bend in the blade. My original C-60 Ayoob is probably the best performing Spyderedged, conventional designed blade I own at this time and it's convex design is superb for the Spyderedge.

I truly miss the Dodo in Spyderedge>> that model in full SE was a mini-mega-beast. I know that some of you are going to chime in and give me an exception to the rule and I won't argue much because there are a few exceptions to the rule. The Assist model comes to mind. But for the most part I bet most of you are going to agree that to get the full, optimal performance of a Spyderedge you most definitely need a model with either convex or concave curve to it.

Which is why we need more fixed blades in full SE. And why some past models need to be reconsidered as Sprint Runs in full SE as well.

OK let the disagreements and agreements come forth :D

zhyla · #2

Depends what you're cutting. Cloth + spyderedge has never worked well for me.

twinboysdad · #3

SE Ayoob is a grail. Know where any are???

JD Spydo · #4

zhyla wrote:Depends what you're cutting. Cloth + spyderedge has never worked well for me.

Oh I'm not claiming that the Spyderedge/curved blade is good for everything>> Yeah there are a few things that are better done with a plain edge like meat cutting, fish cleaning, deer skinning and many culinary jobs are truly better done with a premium plain edge.

On the other hand I've had much better luck cutting rope and other fibrous materials with a Spyderedge. Also rough materials like cardboard, heavy plastics, clam packs and several other rough cutting jobs that I find a Spyderedge does much, much better on.

And not all serration patterns are created equal by any means either. For instance the low profile rounded serrations like on the K-04, K-05 and AUS-8 Catcherman model in full SE do indeed work better on food processing jobs than the spiky serrations like on the Seki City Japan Spyderco models.

But curved blades do perform much better with Spyderedges I'm finding just about across the board of cutting jobs.

BAL · #5

twinboysdad wrote:SE Ayoob is a grail. Know where any are???

Yeah, they are in people's pockets or on a personal display shelf and they aren't coming out to play.
If you find one, but it, if you find two buy both,....repeat.

Donut · #6

I wonder how much the UK people would like to see a slight hawk blade or reverse S on the FRN UKPK. I'm not sure on the PE or SE, though. I could use one of those.

Evil D · #7

JD if nothing else I admire your persistence with this topic. I don't know if you'll ever get the following that you're looking for but I can appreciate someone's dedication to something they love.

phillipsted · #8

zhyla wrote:Depends what you're cutting. Cloth + spyderedge has never worked well for me.

I agree, for straight, fine cuts, this wouldn't be the best choice. But JD is right, if you are rough cutting stuff like burlap, rope, or nylon webbing - serrated hawkbills are the best there is.

TedP

GTPowers · #9

I do love my H1 Hawkbill LB :)

BAL · #10

Evil D wrote:JD if nothing else I admire your persistence with this topic. I don't know if you'll ever get the following that you're looking for but I can appreciate someone's dedication to something they love.

JD Spydo Seed

Spreading the seeds of the serrated hawkbill and hope that they take root.
Definately a blade to to have in your collection and after getting one, you
might find that you want more. Keep spreading the word JD.

zhyla · #11

I actually used the serrated part of my combo Manix 2 recently to saw a stalk of bamboo in my yard. Completely wrong tool for the job but it did work eventually. Couldn't do that with a plain edge.

JD Spydo · #12

zhyla wrote:I actually used the serrated part of my combo Manix 2 recently to saw a stalk of bamboo in my yard. Completely wrong tool for the job but it did work eventually. Couldn't do that with a plain edge.

Interesting!! I've never used a Spyderco "Jumpmaster" model but if I had a job that truly needed a "Sawing Action" to get the job done then I would by all means use either a Jumpmaster or Rock Salt for such a job.

It just blows me away how good serrations are with curved blades. And the H-1 series is right up there at the top for sure.

I've often wondered what a powerhouse blade the Chinook III would have been with a Spyderedge? And as good as the original Ayoob was in Spyderedge it just baffles me to no end why they didn't offer up the Sprint version in Spyderedge with the great new G-10 handle. I also remember the older JD Smith model when it was available in Spyderedge.

To me it's a very obvious thing that they might have overlooked. Not to mention what a food processing beast the original Catcherman model was in full SE. Again the SE Dodo is a very carefully hidden secret>> and it was probably the best SE Spyder of it's size range.

Commendatore · #13

WOW! :eek:

The idea of a slipjoint folder with a curved blade and serrations is enormous!

Linerless, toxic green G10 handles of the UKPK would fit perfectly. :D

JD Spydo · #14

Commendatore wrote:WOW! :eek:

The idea of a slipjoint folder with a curved blade and serrations is enormous!

Linerless, toxic green G10 handles of the UKPK would fit perfectly. :D

I'm not so sure that a slipjoint folder is a good idea. Because I truly want my Hawkbills ( serrated or otherwise) to have a locking mechanism for safety. To me locking folders with high quality locking systems like Spyderco and Benchmade offer are truly a GOD-Send and add a great measure of safety. I do admit that slipjoint folders in some instances are very handy but I will take safe route every time I can.

I'm still hoping for a fixed blade Hawkbill myself. And yes I would want it in Spyderedge and plain edge both.

Commendatore · #15

I was curious when buying a slipjoint Rescue blade-and the UKPK one became my most used :spyder: .
Not for rescue tasks but general use. Maybe the handle shape which works for my paws is more important than locking/non-.

A reverse S blade in that handle pattern (be it with or without BBL/backlock) could be great.

I would give the Cricket a try if it weren`t for the liner lock as I prefer ambidextrous knife use. Or the Lil`Matriarch if it had a finger choil (even better: choil and G10). I would use the Dodo for almost anything but the needle-tip could suffer so I admire+baby it. The Tasman`s curve grabs anything, I like it better than some Wharnie/Hawkbill in-betweens but it is a little wide for work use.
It is hard to please me :rolleyes: but there are fabulous Spyderco knives all around.