An Outsider's view on lubrication

[GTPowers]

Hulow again.

Fairly new here. Newbie doesn't sound right, its like saying 3 years of tech school and a BA mean nothing but, meh. Essentially, I know enough about oil, grease, and lube to work my way around steel, aluminum, and the like.

Moving on. My Manix2 was like a punch in the face. As if Sal reached through my monitor and slapped me into the reality that I need a few more wee Spiders. Like all things metal, plastic, and fun, I tore right into that age old warranty buster and pulled my Manix2 apart. I cleaned it and lubed it with what I had on hand, which for this family meant T9 bicycle chain lube. T9 is great stuff made by Boeing. Works great on all 5 of our bicycles. At about 12 bucks for three ounces, its a good investment for some PM on our horde of people movers.

With some T9 in my Manix2 and three more Spydercos on the way (Delica4, H1 Hawkbill Ladybug, and a Cat) I figured it might be best to research what y'all use. I picked up a 1oz bottle of Tuf-glide. I tore down my new Delica and even my Manix2 (again), cleaned them down with some WD40 and relubed the whole horde and added the Tuf-glide. Things went well.

Now, looking to the Delica and its frame lock(?, you know what I mean if I said that wrong). This knife locked up pretty grainy from the start. Even after the tear down, clean, and lube, it was still pretty grainy. Not smooth, kind of ruff. Yes, this is even after a week's worth of tearing apart cardboard for 11 hours a day, so broken in could be assumed.

The graininess was driving me mad. I loved the Delica and really wanted to "feel" the quality. So, after a few Jim Beans, I grabbed the T9 once again and relubed the pivot and bearings. BAM, no more graininess.

Now, I don't know a cat's tail about proper, accepted, knife lubrication but smooth is smooth and grainy is grainy. I've read enough to know that Spyderco owners swear by Tuf-glide but it simply wasn't living up to the hype for me.

So, there is my story and second step into the door of the Spyderco forum world. If anyone has any insight or willingness to try out my fluke, go for it. I'd love to hear from y'all and cherish your words of wisdom.

Cheers,
Grant

PS, link to the T9 http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosi ... B000GE1F9K

[DeathBySnooSnoo]

I think that as far as lube goes we probably all have difference preferences. Some like mineral oil, some like Mil-Tec, some like...dry lubes, waxes and whatever else. Tuf-Glide is not used by many for it's luberecation properties (as far as I know) but for it's corrosion prevention properties.

[jabba359]

I'm in accord with DeathBySnooSnoo here and think you did it exactly how you should. Tuf-Glide is best as an anticorrosive and protectant. It should be applied to all the metal bits, both moving and stationary. Once that is complete, your favorite lubricant (T9, Nano Oil, Mineral Oil, K-Y, Rem Oil, Mil-Tec, etc) should be applied to the moving parts and their contact faces, just as you did. This gives you both protection as well as smooth operation.

[JD Spydo]

Sentry Solutions is a company that I just love. Their products are all very good quality. They have a dry lube that I personally think is superb but yet I hear very little about it on any of these forums.

The product is called BP 2000. It is similar to dry powdered graphite lube but much better in many ways. It's extremely fine and can make it's way into just about any moviing part no matter how closely machined it might be.

For most of my Spyderco folders I use Militec. I find Militec to be a great all purpose lubricant for many reasons and it doesn't seem to draw dirt and it doesn't get gooey over a period of time like many other wet lubricants tend to do.

[jackknifeh]

My opinion:

Tuf-Glide is GREAT for preventing corrosion. On a new knife I use it in the pivot just to get it in there for corrosion protection in areas I can't see. It's better than nothing as a lubricant. After a day or two to allow the Tuf-glide to dry completely I have been using Nano-Oil for a few months now. Upon first application it's lubrication quality is FAR better than anything else I've used. There are many that I have not tried though. Now that I am used to it I consider it's performance normal. I have to force myself to remember my first impression to keep the realization of the difference in Nano-Oil and the others I've tried. I gave some to my son. A few days later he mentioned how good the oil worked. So, I have adopted using Tuf-Glide and Nano-Oil for corrosion and lubrication.

Nano-Oil comes in 3 weights. 10w is the most common. 5w is very thin and gets into joints VERY easily. I got it to seep into rusted bolts. The 85w is for heavy use needs (guns, etc.). It deserves reading about IMO.

Jack

[GTPowers]

I didn't check this for a couple days after I posted it. A few too many bourbons in the gut. I woke up and was expecting a bunch of "LOLNEWB" remarks but y'all gents are super. Thanks for the wisdom!

[Simple Man]

Honestly, any quality lube that works for you. I like QuickRelease at the moment, but have used Militec-1, Rem Oil, Ballistol, even Mineral Oil, generic slickum, Silicon spray, SLP 2000, others? I do like CorrosionX for protection though. It works well in a pinch for an all-in-one to carry traveling or in a desk drawer.

[JD Spydo]

Honestly, any quality lube that works for you. I like QuickRelease at the moment, but have used Militec-1, Rem Oil, Ballistol, even Mineral Oil, generic slickum, Silicon spray, SLP 2000, others? I do like CorrosionX for protection though. It works well in a pinch for an all-in-one to carry traveling or in a desk drawer.

When it comes to cleaning and corrosion protection and a great cleaner and restorer for G-10 handles I can't say enough about BALLISTOL. I always like to run into another believer in Ballistol. I've seen that product do literal miracles on restoration work and it has many desirable properties and there is so much you can do with that great product.

Also for anytime you all need a thicker grease for any lubrication need Militec has the very best synthetic grease I've ever use. Their synthetic oil is my favorite for lubricating all my folders. But their grease has dozens of great uses.

[Dr. Snubnose]

I'm a CorrosionX guy....I have not found a better lube and protector against corrosion and rust......Highly recommended....I use it on all my guns and knives...Doc :)

[monsterdog]

The problem with most oils to me is that it collects dust and dirt, especially in something that spends a good deal of time in your pocket, and over time those particles will act like an abrasive in your knife and make it more gritty and wear out faster.

My guess is your graininess is imperfections in the metal if tuf-glide didn't take care of it and the oil you put in there is basically just creating a film that lets you not feel those imperfections. If you can see them with the naked eye, maybe try some kind of wax that dries up or if you are brave enough, try and smooth them out.

Like a couple of people mentioned above, sentry solutions makes really good stuff and all their protectants and lubricants end up completely dry. Someone mentioned bp2000, that stuff is great, apply it to your pivot/lock while its still wet from the tuf-glide, or if you want to go one up, use their smooth-kote product, let it try and then polish the formed coating with some bp2000 on a patch or rag.

The last two products are meant to make the bore of a gun super smooth so it can be shot without residue sticking in it and at the same time be slicker than any oiled surface. It works very well in a gun and I see no reason why it wouldn't work in your knife as well.

[powernoodle]

I must be a weirdo, because I never lube any of my knives, and never see any reason too. They open smoothly and easily, with not the slightest effort, grittiness or other prob.

[DeathBySnooSnoo]

You are lucky then. Mine can get pocket lint built up, or they get dirt or dust in the pivots that lead to a gritty feel...can wash and blow them out, but eventually I find that they need some lube to be super smooth.

[Oofa]

After many years of owning knives, I have noticed that what type of lube you use makes no difference at all. I use Blue Lube because it was on sale at my local knife store but before that, I used household oil on pivot points once every 6-7 years. In my experience, it's only my new knives that are gritty or seem to need lubrication. Maybe it's because I am not ever rolling them around in dirt and I use pocket clips instead of putting them in my pockets.