Para Tip Resto

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Noble
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Para Tip Resto

#1

Post by Noble »

Greetings Forumites and Forumistas,

After my latest touch up sesh with my D2 Para and the Sharpmaker, I realized that over the course of time ive managed to lose the perfect point at the tip of my blade. Without using powertools, does anyone here have a method to bringing it back using the Sharpmaker? Secondly, where does the fault lie in my stroke to cause this?
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of meeting deadlines is forgotten.
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My Dream Knife: Paramilitary with FFG H1. GITD G10.
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Vincent
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#2

Post by Vincent »

To be honest, a sand belt will be the fastest and most effective means for doing what you need done. Either get a pro to do it or send it in to Spyderco with shipping and let them sharpen it up to spec again. Ive broken tips before on my para and they always return it like new and scary sharp.
jzmtl
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#3

Post by jzmtl »

Did you round it off? It can be caused by either let tip sliding off stone or concentrated the very tip too much.

If it's only a little bit you can file down the spine to make it sharp again.
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Noble
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#4

Post by Noble »

Thanks for the reply vincent. My tip is just a little less than pointy though, not so much broken. Im afraid the belt sander is gonna do too much, but I'll keep it in mind as its a more viable option as opposed to sending it in to the Mainland. Kinda hoping i could try to hand correct it using the SM. :D Funny thing is, i never stab anything, but I feel like my blade is telling me that im a bad owner for dulling its tip! LOL
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of meeting deadlines is forgotten.
_____________________________________________

My Dream Knife: Paramilitary with FFG H1. GITD G10.
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Noble
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#5

Post by Noble »

jzmtl wrote:Did you round it off? It can be caused by either let tip sliding off stone or concentrated the very tip too much.

If it's only a little bit you can file down the spine to make it sharp again.
Yeah, its just a tad rounded, but definately not pointy anymore. A file, there we go, why didnt i think of that? Thank you jzmtl.
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of meeting deadlines is forgotten.
_____________________________________________

My Dream Knife: Paramilitary with FFG H1. GITD G10.
jzmtl
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#6

Post by jzmtl »

You are welcome. Actually you probably won't find a file that will last more than a few strokes, just use the brown rod from sharpmaker.
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JNewell
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#7

Post by JNewell »

I'd send it to Sypderco. One of my sons broke the tip off a D3 and they did a fabulous job restoring the blade. I think they charged him $5! :spyder:
clu
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#8

Post by clu »

This is probably the best video I've found of how to avoid tip blunting and how to fix it with the sharpmaker

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSG_W5BSwcw
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FLYBYU44
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#9

Post by FLYBYU44 »

jzmtl wrote:You are welcome. Actually you probably won't find a file that will last more than a few strokes, just use the brown rod from sharpmaker.
A diamond file or diamond little sharpener would work best.
Those who choose to live a life without risks, arrive safely at death's door.
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Noble
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#10

Post by Noble »

clu wrote:This is probably the best video I've found of how to avoid tip blunting and how to fix it with the sharpmaker

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSG_W5BSwcw
CLU, this was perfect, thank you.
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of meeting deadlines is forgotten.
_____________________________________________

My Dream Knife: Paramilitary with FFG H1. GITD G10.
Michael Janich
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#11

Post by Michael Janich »

One sharpening method used by cabinet makers is to use spray adhesive to stick a sheet of sandpaper to a sheet of glass, providing a perfectly flat surface for plane blades and chisels. This same method, with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper, works great for re-pointing rounded tips. Tape the edge to within about 1/2-inch of the point for safety, then work the tip with draw strokes across the paper with a low angle (handle close to the surface of the paper) until you get the point you want.

A less labor-intensive set-up can be done by taping a sheet of sandpaper to a glass tabletop, a flat, smooth countertop, or any other similar surface. If you want a nice polished finish on the back of the blade, work through 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit paper.

If you are committed to using your Sharpmaker, you can do the same thing with the rods laid flat in their storage/flat sharpening cradle in the base. The narrower rods require a little more patience to avoid skating off, though.

Stay safe,

Mike
Michael Janich
Spyderco Special Projects Coordinator
Founder and Lead Instructor, Martial Blade Concepts
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#12

Post by jzmtl »

Yeah that's one thing I don't like about sharpmaker, rods are too narrow, easy to slip off and round the tip.
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JNewell
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#13

Post by JNewell »

The method Michael mentions in the last paragraph of his post above is what's shown (very nicely!) in the YouTube video linked above - which is well worth the two minutes or so it takes to watch it.
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