It seems to bug people visually, but when using knives with that little bump it's never been an issue for me.
And: For those who do find it to be an issue:
Why not just take a metal file and reduce the "bump" till the unsharpened section is flush again with the edge?
And again, and also as you, Vivi have pointed out (in a dedicated thread, as far as I recall?):
That short unsharpened section would be were otherwise the "notch" would sit anyway if there was one...
And if desired, this short dull section CAN be made sharp by anyone, even if for some perhaps just crudly with a file and not as sharp as the rest of the edge, but still better than a "snaggy" sharpening notch
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
No offense meant, but I never really understand what´s the issue when this comes up (it might very well be that I am the one who is missing something).
...
I am by no means saying "I wish it had a choil" its not so much that the part of the blade doesn't get sharp, its that over time you start to get this sort of recurve effect from not being able to remove material down the whole length of the edge. I know its possible to avoid that so I was just asking how the folks here sharpened their blades.
I understand and my apologies should I have come across as if I was not taking you seriously (don´t think so though)!
You are right, but as said in my post above:
No problem to reduce that "bump" / "recurve part" from time to time with a metal file or whatever to get rid of that very recurve, right?
The worst that can happen is a tiny unsharpened section, but then flush with the rest of the edge.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
No offense meant, but I never really understand what´s the issue when this comes up (it might very well be that I am the one who is missing something).
...
I am by no means saying "I wish it had a choil" its not so much that the part of the blade doesn't get sharp, its that over time you start to get this sort of recurve effect from not being able to remove material down the whole length of the edge. I know its possible to avoid that so I was just asking how the folks here sharpened their blades.
I understand and my apologies should I have come across as if I was not taking you seriously (don´t think so though)!
You are right, but as said in my post above:
No problem to reduce that "bump" / "recurve part" from time to time with a metal file or whatever to get rid of that very recurve, right?
The worst that can happen is a tiny unsharpened section, but then flush with the rest of the edge.
Thank you for the advice!
I think I'd be way more comfortable just using a different method to sharpen this particular knife rather than take a metal file to it, don't know if I can trust myself not to screw it up lol.
I got some clarity here about what sharpening method I should use to get it done the way I want.
Ultimately its not a crazy issue, just an annoyance as I don't like the way it looks.
Thanks again.
CTS-XHP Para 3 LW, Cruwear Yojimbo 2, LC200N Salt 2
... - Makes me recall a nice proposal of David / Evil D and probably also some others:
Instead of a"useless" notch there could be a single, sharp serration scallop...
Now that's a novel idea..
Yes, very cool idea!... And as I want to point out again: Definitely not mine, but Davids and perhaps some others (idea).
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
When I get a new Spydie, I take a diamond file and very carefully knock down the corners of that square nub until it's close enough to the angle of the blade's edge that I can take a few swipes right at the edge of the whetstone. Once I start seeing abrasions on both the nub and the blade's edge, I can start sharpening normally all the way down to the hilt.