Igi964 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 19, 2023 12:28 am
Funny how many reaction on LCvs S30V. My main point was that M390 is MUCH better than S30V. I am not a CATRa tester, just regular user with Sharpmaker and cardboard to cut
I used to check my edge with my nail. If it glide smooth its OK, if it has small chips or flat spots you can feel as a "bump". For some reason S30V over the years on multiple Spyderco knives no matter how sharpen is bumpy after carboard cutting fairly quickly. M390 on the other hand keep its edge smooth for a long time.
The LC vs S30 was a bit different. It was mostly a geometry thing I suppose. It was not a Spyderco with very thin geometry. Maybe due to high toughness it simply keep the edge smooth longer than S30V / VG10.
Just my 2c. YMMV
I suppose the type of cardboard you're cutting could play a role.
Enough members here have reported edge chipping issues cutting cardboard that I know there is some variable at play.
I've been cutting cardboard with pocket knives for decades and I have never, ever had an edge chip cutting it.
I have chipped edges cutting into steel support beams in cardboard boxed shipments on pallets. I have chipped edges cutting into staples.
But I have never, ever chipped an edge cutting just cardboard.
I also run my edges thinner than most. Think about the BTE geometry of the Shaman or Para 2 VS the geometry of a box cutter.
These days I generally sharpen the bevels on my pocket knives to 10-12dps, sometimes with a microbevel, sometimes not.
I used to go much thinner. MUCH thinner. Like blending the edge bevel into the full primary grind on FFG knives and giving it a ~10dps microbevel. Or converting saber ground folders into scandi grinds. I used to NEVER give a folding knife a back bevel greater than 10dps / 20 degrees total.
I think what you and many other folks may be running into is dirty cardboard.
A box fresh off the shipping truck won't stress ~60rc steels very much at all.
A box that's been sitting on a soggy floor for 7 years that's been moved around a bunch and has all sorts of dirt, grime and contaminants loaded into it will make an edge dull much more.
For me, sharpening each steel at 200-400 grit, PE S30V and LC200N show a large difference when it comes to edge holding.
I don't doubt the reports of others. How we sharpen and what we cut influences our results more than which steel we are using.
When I post about these things I'm merely adding a other data point.
I used to check my edge with my nail. If it glide smooth its OK, if it has small chips or flat spots you can feel as a "bump". For some reason S30V over the years on multiple Spyderco knives no matter how sharpen is bumpy after carboard cutting fairly quickly. M390 on the other hand keep its edge smooth for a long time. 
