Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
I just disassembled and reassembled my Manix 2 and I had to use a press to get the lanyard barrel back through the hole on the scale, but I noticed it did shear off a bit of material in the process. Will this eventually become problematic and lead to it not fitting snugly? Not that I plan to take it apart and clean it more than once in a blue moon, but my intuition is telling me even one or two more times is going to remove enough material from that hole to be problematic.
Is there supposed to be another way to get it back on that avoids pressing it through?
Is there supposed to be another way to get it back on that avoids pressing it through?
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
i had to do the same with my micarta scales. my suggestion is to never take it all the way apart unless you are changing the scales. undo all the screws and the just fan out the liners and scales to get to everything. you only really need to take it all the way apart if you're switching the scales.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
Ah good idea. I didn't take the liner off, so should have just thought of that.ladybug93 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:40 pmi had to do the same with my micarta scales. my suggestion is to never take it all the way apart unless you are changing the scales. undo all the screws and the just fan out the liners and scales to get to everything. you only really need to take it all the way apart if you're switching the scales.
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
I've run into that a couple of times when switching Manix scales, having a little difficulty getting them on and off the lanyard tube, but was just persistent with waggling them around, sometimes gently compressing with parallel jaw pliers with rubber protectors on the jaws when the barrel was flared a bit more than usual. I had the reverse problem once, when the hole in the off-brand scale was a hair too big. That could be fixed by using a flaring tool on the tube.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
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Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
Just get a new LW with screws -- no lanyard barrel
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
I got a S30V Manix that had a terrible life before getting in my hands. The lanyard tube doesn't hold the scale on one side now. Since it's the only thing keeping the butt of the handle together it's annoying ^^.
In the collection : Lots of different steels, in lots of different (and same) Spydercos.
Robin. Finally made an IG : ramo_knives
MNOSD member 004* aka Mr. N5s
Robin. Finally made an IG : ramo_knives
MNOSD member 004* aka Mr. N5s
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
That's one of my complaints about a lot of aftermarket scales. They make the lanyard hole in the scale a little too big so even the factory tube doesn't press fit into the scale and you can feel the scale moving around in hand when installed. I generally stick to factory scales anyway but it's something I've noticed on used knives I've bought that had aftermarket scales.
But to answer your question OP, no I don't think there's a way of getting the factory scales back on without removing a little bit of material. I don't know for sure, but to me it seems the factory tubes are flared open slightly after installation to get that tight fit, or at least you can see the evidence of this on the inner mouth of the tube. On loose tubes, I've wrapped the tube in some tape before to tighten up the fit and that works okay.
But to answer your question OP, no I don't think there's a way of getting the factory scales back on without removing a little bit of material. I don't know for sure, but to me it seems the factory tubes are flared open slightly after installation to get that tight fit, or at least you can see the evidence of this on the inner mouth of the tube. On loose tubes, I've wrapped the tube in some tape before to tighten up the fit and that works okay.
- apollo
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- Location: A place where idiots and corrupt people are called the government…
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
Hi LB. Why do you take it completely apart if you change the scales? I find it way easier to change those when the knife is still together that way you wiggle with a sturdy object not just a liner. The only thing you really need to disassemble completely is if you want to change the lock cage.ladybug93 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:40 pmi had to do the same with my micarta scales. my suggestion is to never take it all the way apart unless you are changing the scales. undo all the screws and the just fan out the liners and scales to get to everything. you only really need to take it all the way apart if you're switching the scales.
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
oh... when i said all the way apart, i just meant taking scales off completely, not necessarily all at once. if you're not changing scales out, there's no need to take them off.apollo wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2023 4:26 pmHi LB. Why do you take it completely apart if you change the scales? I find it way easier to change those when the knife is still together that way you wiggle with a sturdy object not just a liner. The only thing you really need to disassemble completely is if you want to change the lock cage.ladybug93 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2023 4:40 pmi had to do the same with my micarta scales. my suggestion is to never take it all the way apart unless you are changing the scales. undo all the screws and the just fan out the liners and scales to get to everything. you only really need to take it all the way apart if you're switching the scales.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: Manix 2 lanyard barrel disassembly/reassembly question...
You probably can fix this with a center punch or something similar, as long as the diameter of the center punch is larger than that of the lanyard tube.
Lay the knife down with the loose side up, push down hard on the loose scale, put the center punch into the lanyard tube and hit the center punch with a hammer but not to much force. Maybe more than once.
This has helped on one of my Manixes that had the same problem you describe.