KnifeCenter Manix 2 XL Cruwear/Smooth G10

[semfi1345]

Am I the only one that likes smooth G10? Reminds me of dozier and Randall smooth micarta

I love the smooth G10 and think these are the best models to come out of golden, personally. Got the Manix 2 XL in and it's another keeper for sure.

[BeggarSo]

Am I the only one that likes smooth G10? Reminds me of dozier and Randall smooth micarta

Well I must admit carrying my Manix2 Cruwear Smooth G-10 I do like the way it feels and slides onto the pocket but it is the handles shape that really makes it work, for instance I have a Kapara in 20CV the G-10 is smooth and makes the knife nearly unusable with a compression lock as it does want to leave the hand opening and closing it.

So my revised statement is something like this. Not never again but.... never again on most models. On the Manix it is a winner and I expect the XL which is coming in to be no different.

[JoviAl]

How does the Manix XL compare to the Yojimbo 2 size wise? Can I get a picture? KC still has the smooth Y2 in stock and it's very tempting.

Here you go -

That’s a standard Manix 2 XL (sporting a Lynch deep carry clip) next to the smooth G10 KC exclusive Yojimbo 2. The third pic is with the Yojumbo (S90V CF exclusive) in for additional reference. If you like smooth G10 you can’t go wrong with the KC Yojimbo 2, although it does have its quirks (if you’re not gripping it tightly when Spydie flicking it open your sofa might gain a new ventilation feature…speaking from experience).

Thanks, Al. Those are great pictures. That Yojumbo is huge.

You’re welcome Funnily enough the Yojumbo sort of disappears into my pocket as it’s so slim. The action is a delight too.

[BeggarSo]

I am sorry to report I had to send mine back.

First of all I would like to say the person I spoke to at Knife Center was very professional and helpful. She asked If I would like an inspected replacement or a refund.

I replied an inspected replacement would be great just please ask them to do so and set one aside so I don't miss out. She sent me a return label to print which I did and dropped the knife off at the local USPS today.

So what was the issue?

Well in another thread I started called Happy Family I put this knife and some other Manix pictures up, in that thread I mentioned the uneven bevels at the tip and showed them. This however was not enough for me to want to send it back.

Something Just did not feel right with the knife I kept subconsciously comparing how it felt compared to my older S30V DLC Manix2 XL.

The opening and closing felt off by comparison.

For some reason I decided to run the tip of my finger lightly over the handle with the blade in the closed position where the tip is and sure enough the tip of the blade was protruding enough to catch my finger without even pushing hard.

Man talk about a sinking feeling. Darn it I don't want to have to send this back, it would be the first knife I have ever returned anywhere.

Next I took a closer look at the knife and compared it to my older Manix 2 XL and felt and saw the issues immediately.

The blade was not longer that was not the issue but it did not go down deeper into the handle when closed by quite a bit and this allowed the tip to be up higher and yes dangerous that pulling the knife out could lead to a cut.

I seriously hope this is just a knife that somehow got past Quality Control and is not indicative of this run for Knife Center.

Those of you getting this knife might want to check for this just to be safe. I wonder how this condition is even caused? I did notice the Detent seemed a bit weak. Perhaps not enough material was removed from the ball bearing lock cage and thereby not permitting the blade to fully seat in the handle?

[JSumm]

That's interesting the picture from their website looks like it should be sitting lower into the handle than your personal example.


If it makes you feel any better, the only knife I have ever swapped out with a shop was a Hogue Deka that cut me worse than any other knife for the same reason. Fortunately, the shop happened to have the 2nd revision in stock where they extended the scales to fix this.

[BeggarSo]

Sorry to hear about you getting cut.

I just hate the idea of returning merchandise.

Especially for such a reasonable price as they are charging I mean for under $200.00 that is allot of knife in an excellent steel.

Can't imagine they are making much money on these and really do think they are doing the community a favor by not inflating the price.

Unfortunately a knife that can cut me in the closed position is where I have to draw the line.

Have to chalk this up to mistakes happen in any production, this must have been one of them until proven wrong, now if the replacement is also capable of cutting me with the blade closed then there is a real issue.

[Urkilnmesmalls]

Am I the only one that likes smooth G10? Reminds me of dozier and Randall smooth micarta

Well I must admit carrying my Manix2 Cruwear Smooth G-10 I do like the way it feels and slides onto the pocket but it is the handles shape that really makes it work, for instance I have a Kapara in 20CV the G-10 is smooth and makes the knife nearly unusable with a compression lock as it does want to leave the hand opening and closing it.

So my revised statement is something like this. Not never again but.... never again on most models. On the Manix it is a winner and I expect the XL which is coming in to be no different.

I regret missing out on that kapara. I didn’t know how much I loved the model until after the 20cv was gone. I keep hoping for another drop but DLT said it’s unlikely.

[BeggarSo]

I wont lie the Kapara is a special model but in retrospect if this helps you any I would have been just as well off with the standard Kapara in S30V.

I was in a phase of ignorance concerning S30V in my ignorance I thought it to be old cheap crap steel. In reality I was not sharpening it to its potential, sure I was getting mirror edges but I swear to you S30V only shines with a coarse blade.

Once I got the nonsense out of my system and started sharpening it to it's chemistry well lets just say 20CV, M390, CTS204P yeah well not spending extra on it.

FYI you can get one here https://www.knivesshipfree.com/spyderco ... v-c241cfp/ they are a good company and the knife is well worth the price. Trading is not allowed here but I would trade the 20CV for S30V model just cant see buying two of these though it is tempting.

[Brock O Lee]

I am sorry to report I had to send mine back.

That’s a bummer, and definitely grounds for replacement.

If you wanted to fix that yourself though, you could do it by fitting a slightly smaller ball bearing. It would cause deeper lockup when open, and lower the tip in the handle when closed. I’m planning that for one of my older Manix that I did a scale-swap on, using a slightly smaller ceramic ball.

[BeggarSo]

That’s a bummer, and definitely grounds for replacement.

If you wanted to fix that yourself though, you could do it by fitting a slightly smaller ball bearing. It would cause deeper lockup when open, and lower the tip in the handle when closed. I’m planning that for one of my older Manix that I did a scale-swap on, using a slightly smaller ceramic ball.

Hey thank you for answering my question how it happened. So too large of a ball bearing? Hmmm makes some sense but wouldn't the inner dimensions of the cage have to bee larger to accommodate it?

At any rate too late now it has been shipped back but for future reference when you get to doing yours would you mind posting the source of the bearing and the finished result? I am interested in that mod.

[Brock O Lee]

Sure! The cage can accommodate slightly smaller and slightly larger ball bearings than stock. I’m talking about a fraction of a mm size difference here. A small size difference could move the tip a few mm because of the long blade.

If you search Amazon and Ebay you’ll find a wide range of ceramic balls and sizes.

[mongo1958]

Haven't seen this posted yet, figured some of you would be freaking out over this one.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP95GP ... l&kcno=123

Please explain the fascination about the Cruwear steel.

[kennethsime]

Haven't seen this posted yet, figured some of you would be freaking out over this one.

Please explain the fascination about the Cruwear steel.

I’m not sure if you’re directly asking David here or more generally, but I’ll go ahead and answer anyway.

Cruwear offers an ideal balance between wear resistance, toughness, and stain resistance for my uses. It’s remarkably similar to Magnacut, with higher wear resistance and less stain resistance (which is a great switch in my book). It’s also relatively easy to sharpen, in my anecdotal experience, and responds well to a strop.

[mongo1958]

Haven't seen this posted yet, figured some of you would be freaking out over this one.

Please explain the fascination about the Cruwear steel.

I’m not sure if you’re directly asking David here or more generally, but I’ll go ahead and answer anyway.

Cruwear offers an ideal balance between wear resistance, toughness, and stain resistance for my uses. It’s remarkably similar to Magnacut, with higher wear resistance and less stain resistance (which is a great switch in my book). It’s also relatively easy to sharpen, in my anecdotal experience, and responds well to a strop.

kennethsime,
Thanks for the response. It seems to be a very robust steel.
I looked it up: https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/06/03/ ... uff-steel/

[JSumm]

kennethsime said it pretty well. If you don't need the best of the best edge retention Cruwear is really hard to beat. I find the edge holds up very nicely to damage.

[mongo1958]

kennethsime said it pretty well. If you don't need the best of the best edge retention Cruwear is really hard to beat. I find the edge holds up very nicely to damage.

What knife do you have with cruwear as a blade?

[JSumm]

kennethsime said it pretty well. If you don't need the best of the best edge retention Cruwear is really hard to beat. I find the edge holds up very nicely to damage.

What knife do you have with cruwear as a blade?

A couple of PM2s.

[Brock O Lee]

That’s a bummer, and definitely grounds for replacement.

If you wanted to fix that yourself though, you could do it by fitting a slightly smaller ball bearing. It would cause deeper lockup when open, and lower the tip in the handle when closed. I’m planning that for one of my older Manix that I did a scale-swap on, using a slightly smaller ceramic ball.

Hey thank you for answering my question how it happened. So too large of a ball bearing? Hmmm makes some sense but wouldn't the inner dimensions of the cage have to bee larger to accommodate it?

At any rate too late now it has been shipped back but for future reference when you get to doing yours would you mind posting the source of the bearing and the finished result? I am interested in that mod.

To circle back on this topic...

I mentioned I was waiting for a slightly smaller ceramic ball bearing to install into my M4 Manix. I wanted to lower the blade tip in the handle, after I installed the AWT scales. This will give you an idea what effect a small bearing size difference has on the tip position of the blade when closed. The longer the blade, the more pronounced the effect.

Zirconia ceramic balls in 2 sizes, stock size left and slightly smaller right. T15 Torx bit for reference. I doubled-checked these diameters with digital vernier calipers before installing and they were spot-on.



Tip position with stock ball installed. Tip is barely hidden inside the scales. It is exposed enough to catch the flesh of my finger tip.


Smaller ball installed. Tip is nested much deeper inside the scales. No cut risk.


Both balls fit equally well into the ball cage.

[shunsui]

This thread needs more pix.

[BeggarSo]

That’s a bummer, and definitely grounds for replacement.

If you wanted to fix that yourself though, you could do it by fitting a slightly smaller ball bearing. It would cause deeper lockup when open, and lower the tip in the handle when closed. I’m planning that for one of my older Manix that I did a scale-swap on, using a slightly smaller ceramic ball.

Hey thank you for answering my question how it happened. So too large of a ball bearing? Hmmm makes some sense but wouldn't the inner dimensions of the cage have to bee larger to accommodate it?

At any rate too late now it has been shipped back but for future reference when you get to doing yours would you mind posting the source of the bearing and the finished result? I am interested in that mod.

To circle back on this topic...

I mentioned I was waiting for a slightly smaller ceramic ball bearing to install into my M4 Manix. I wanted to lower the blade tip in the handle, after I installed the AWT scales. This will give you an idea what effect a small bearing size difference has on the tip position of the blade when closed. The longer the blade, the more pronounced the effect.

Zirconia ceramic balls in 2 sizes, stock size left and slightly smaller right. T15 Torx bit for reference. I doubled-checked these diameters with digital vernier calipers before installing and they were spot-on.



Tip position with stock ball installed. Tip is barely hidden inside the scales. It is exposed enough to catch the flesh of my finger tip.


Smaller ball installed. Tip is nested much deeper inside the scales. No cut risk.


Both balls fit equally well into the ball cage.

Wow you were right, nice work!