micro-beveling - when to reprofile?

[zuludelta]

At what point does micro-bevelling at 20dps not do it anymore and I need to reprofile? Is this something I'll just feel as the cutting won't be as smooth? This something people do every N sharpenings regardless? Or is this something that'd take years to get to, even while sharpening twice a week with the golden stone?

Everybody uses their knives differently & on different materials (and of course, blades can be made from anything from garbage "surgical stainless steel" to superduper steels like S90V and Maxamet), so the only fixed rule regarding when to back-bevel your blade is to do it when it feels like touching up/micro-beveling is no longer effective at keeping your knife as sharp as you want or need it to be. And you will definitely notice it unless you are especially insensitive to how a knife responds as it goes through material. You can preemptively redefine the shoulders of your edge even before then, of course, but you also don't want to unnecessarily remove material & increase the behind-the-edge thickness of your knife before you absolutely have to.

I put a micro-bevel on all my regular work knives for ease of touch-ups. I cut a literal ton of abrasive materials at work over the course of a month, but since I have a rotation of 7 work knives in steels with high levels of wear resistance (S30V, Cru-Wear, ZDP-189, K390, S110V, Maxamet, S90V), I find that I only have to back-bevel them once or twice a year (if that), and a couple of them (Maxamet, S90V) I've only back-beveled when I accidentally damaged the edge & had to do a full re-profile.

[Bemo]

Shawn Houston aka DeadboxHero aka BigBrownBear has a Youtub video on the topic that may be helpful: https://youtu.be/OL9ktWN6oBQ

[me2]

I try not to do touch ups unless I can’t get back to my main sharpening gear. Too many times just makes a marathon session to reset the edge.

I did try this once. It works pretty well but I stopped for other reasons. Rebevel to 12 degrees, microbevel on the Sharpmaker at 15 with the brown stones, and 20 with the white stones. It should only take 5 or 6 passes per side at the white stones. If you’re a nut, try the brown and white at 15 and the UF at 20.

[prndltech]

Oops.

[prndltech]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

That is the method to my madness ^^^



Sometimes I’m glad I actually read threads before posting.



I microbevel till it’s not quick and easy, then I use a worksharp with knife grinding attachment and reprofile to a lower angle and start the process all over again with touch ups on the sharpmaker.
Those tools are so great! Quick and easy with good results is the name of the game for me. I’m lazy and I want a shaving sharp knife fast!

[sethwm]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

Thank you, this seems sound.

[sethwm]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

Do you strop?

[sethwm]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

That is the method to my madness ^^^



Sometimes I’m glad I actually read threads before posting.



I microbevel till it’s not quick and easy, then I use a worksharp with knife grinding attachment and reprofile to a lower angle and start the process all over again with touch ups on the sharpmaker.
Those tools are so great! Quick and easy with good results is the name of the game for me. I’m lazy and I want a shaving sharp knife fast!

Do you strop?

[prndltech]

Do you strop?

Yes, after sharpening or touch ups

[Surfingringo]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

Do you strop?

I do not. I feel like a microbevel gives me the same advantage in ease of attaining high level sharpness and increased edge durability as stropping… and is more precise IMO. I can whittle hairs with a few passes on the microbevel…no need for a strop. And once I get my primary and microbevel set, I don’t like adding another angle variable (stropping) for no appreciable advantage in sharpness or performance. The way I see it, set your primary then either microbevel or strop. To do both is at best redundant and at worst counterproductive. Just my 2 cents.

[Bemo]

That's an interesting perspective Lance. I will ponder that.

[vivi]

I microbevel all my edges. The main reason is ease of sharpening and edge maintenance. Once I have my primary bevel set, I can bring my edge back to hair popping sharp in about 10-20 seconds on the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting a true microbevel then it only takes 6-8 passes to bring a edge back to very high sharpness. When I find that it is taking more than 30 seconds and more than 20-30 passes to get back to shaving sharp then I reprofile. For my siren which gets by far the most use (including several days a week cleaning fish) I touch up the microbevel about once a week and reprofile about twice a year.

Do you strop?

I do not. I feel like a microbevel gives me the same advantage in ease of attaining high level sharpness and increased edge durability as stropping… and is more precise IMO. I can whittle hairs with a few passes on the microbevel…no need for a strop. And once I get my primary and microbevel set, I don’t like adding another angle variable (stropping) for no appreciable advantage in sharpness or performance. The way I see it, set your primary then either microbevel or strop. To do both is at best redundant and at worst counterproductive. Just my 2 cents.

I'll second that.

[u.w.]

3rd


Over the years, the only time I have found I use anything resembling a strop is to help push a burr over more - so I can "cut" it off with the stone. I always finish on the stone for the reasons stated above. And like a few others here, I finish at lower grits, like 325 (or lower).

u.w.

[sethwm]

3rd


Over the years, the only time I have found I use anything resembling a strop is to help push a burr over more - so I can "cut" it off with the stone. I always finish on the stone for the reasons stated above. And like a few others here, I finish at lower grits, like 325 (or lower).

u.w.

I think I wish there was a Goldenstone at a coarser grit. I love the golden stone but I also love coarse finishes. Though despite this stone being equivalent to ... what? ... 3000 grit?... it still bites pretty well.

This thread is really heartening for me, mainly because doing sharpening on a stone is still really hard for me. The KME is a hassle, and the golden stone is just so **** easy but it only does micro-beveling for me. (Sharpmaker is closer to goldenstone than KME in terms of convenience, but still requires setup)