I find it difficult to envision Spyderco designing a product specifically to facilitate someone else’s cutting tools. Especially when considering how proud they are of their own cutting tools. (As they rightfully should be)
I just don’t think it’s their market because of how flooded it is with low end options. It would also be difficult for them to compete at a high end level because it’s such a tiny market. Spyderco is not one of these boutique knife makers that can experiment with small mid-tech runs of certain knives. They have to be very decisive regarding what they produce.
The longer the blade is, the more leverage there is available to break it. The thinner the blade, the less leverage is needed to break it. Long, thin blade? Better make it out of something that bends instead of breaking. Edge retention? What's that?
Buy a Cold Steel Tuff Lite and a Harbor Freight belt sander, then learn to grind your own.
The longer the blade is, the more leverage there is available to break it. The thinner the blade, the less leverage is needed to break it. Long, thin blade? Better make it out of something that bends instead of breaking. Edge retention? What's that?
Buy a Cold Steel Tuff Lite and a Harbor Freight belt sander, then learn to grind your own.
This is the exact model I thought about when I first read this thread.
Also, Dragonfly K390 Wharncliffe.
- Jeff May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
For a box cutter it’s hard to beat the bimetal replacement blades sold by Lenox and at least one other firm. They have a very hard HSS edge laser welded to a softer steel back, they fit any standard utility knife handle, and can be bent in a U without shattering (though the edge will crack in several places).
I generally use the Milwaukee folding utility knife for cutting up boxes, but I have a Stanley folding utility knife that has a replaceable thin blade that is 2 1/2 X 1/2”. Only about 2” extends out from the 4.25” handle, but it is a great knife for cutting mat board, cardboard, and similar stuff. Mine has a shiny steel handle, but the current model (10-049) has an epoxy finish on the handle. I like my Spyderco knives too much to use them on cardboard.
Last edited by arty on Sat Jul 30, 2022 8:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
There are two past Spyderco models I could fully recommend for box cutting. One of them is an older fixed blade model with a short blade that was called the SPOT model. The SPOT model would be absolutely perfect for that job.
Another much overlooked model for that chore would be the Dodo model. I've done some box cutting with my blue handled, PE Dodo that I've had since 2003 ( the year it came out). The Dodo is like cutting cardboard like a laser.
Very true. I break down A LOT of cardboard for recycling and box cutters work 10 time better than any Spyderco I have tried. The laser sharp thin blades (especially good blades like Stanley Carbide or Tajima V-REX II) and the way you can choke up on the knife and get a good angle really allow you to blast through cardboard in a way that no Spyderco I have tried can do.
CRU-CARTA THE SEKI MODELS! AND BRING US THE DODO-FLY!
For a box cutter it’s hard to beat the bimetal replacement blades sold by Lenox and at least one other firm. They have a very hard HSS edge laser welded to a softer steel back, they fit any standard utility knife handle, and can be bent in a U without shattering (though the edge will crack in several places).
I use Tajima V-REX II blades - they touch up nicely on spyderco medium and fine stones (screaming sharp with my sloppy quick touch ups) - I want that performance in a longer more rigid format. Those Cold Steel Click n Cut is the closest so far - nice 1.5mm thick blade. I started this thread because it seems that no one has made a non disposable knife blade in that thickness, and I was curious if there was a reason (besides the really real possibility of breaking it)
I think 1mm would be a better performance-to-durability compromise. You could experiment with a Victorinox paring knife, sold in 3” and 4” blade lengths. The handle is too slim for hard work, but can be built up by tape wrapping to provide better purchase.
I break down A LOT of cardboard for recycling and box cutters work 10 time better than any Spyderco I have tried. The laser sharp thin blades (especially good blades like Stanley Carbide or Tajima V-REX II) and the way you can choke up on the knife and get a good angle really allow you to blast through cardboard in a way that no Spyderco I have tried can do.
Very true. Geometry über alles.
Now tell me about these Tajima V-REX blades...what are they made of?
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
I break down A LOT of cardboard for recycling and box cutters work 10 time better than any Spyderco I have tried. The laser sharp thin blades (especially good blades like Stanley Carbide or Tajima V-REX II) and the way you can choke up on the knife and get a good angle really allow you to blast through cardboard in a way that no Spyderco I have tried can do.
Very true. Geometry über alles.
Now tell me about these Tajima V-REX blades...what are they made of?
I know Civivi offers a box cutter, including blades with a Damascus finish. A thin blade such as that found on a Dragonfly combined with a full size grip would be a great little knife!
I tried to use my wharncliffe endela for it but I can't do straight edge no belly. I found the Kizer Mini October to be excellent for it. Except the 154CM on it. I will denitely buy one of Spyderco gives me a pokey sheepsfoot in hollow grind, or Chaparral-thin blade.
Every knife is a box cutter. That’s why they don’t make on. I mean really. Why use box cutter when you have a way better blade in your pocket at all times. JS I use my para 3 every single day for all kinds of things and even if it’s dulls a little. It still cuts up/open boxes.
Interesting, thanks. I don't know steel composition well enough to make sense of this steel. Reasonably high carbon, but adds small amounts of nickel, copper, silicone, and chromium...I don't understand it. Bottom of page, a note that says "used to be called SK2." Which, if memory serves, has been a very common steel used for replaceable ute blades for a long time.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
I think some people dont realise the **** that some box cutters go through, and why the cheap and replaceable blade design works so well.
If you are breaking down empty boxes then sure a dedicated knife seems great. If you are working in a warehouse or grocery store, and cutting boxes packed to the gills with metal cans and glass jars your tip goes away quick. Same with cutting carpet on concrete, doing drywall all day, and all sorts of other stuff.
I like having a dedicated pocket knife on me for a lot of reasons, but I also like having cheap box cutters.
"Rome's greatest contribution to mathematics was the killing of Archimedes."
