cardboard cutting

[sethwm]

I love having a larger blade on me at all times, and I will typically use that to break down boxes. Because it is on me, and I prefer it for it's versatility. However, the best Spyderco I have ever owned to destroy boxes was a Chaparral.

Aren’t chaparrals dangerous though?

Sorry… I couldn’t help myself.

[kennethsime]

I agree that a nice thin blade will probably cut best. I would probably try a Dragonfly, Chapparal, or stick with your Delica.

Alternatively, how about a fixed blade like the Bow River? Or maybe the Sheepsfoot Enuff?

[kobold]

I think the SE wharnie Caribbean is the best for cardboard. The Chaparral is second.
Surprisingly, they even bested hollow grinds like the GB2 and the Swayback.

[Matus]

Especially on a thicker cardboard, the actual thickness and width of the blade plays the role as they both are play a role in drag and wedging. Look at Watu - 2.5mm thick and 20CV steel. I am not sure how that thin handle works for longer cutting sessions. Also GB2 with it's hollow grind works well. If you want Maxamet - look at the Sage 1 or Manix (I did not like the handle, but the blade is good).

Also - the comfort of the handle is very important, as it not only dictates whether you are going to get blisters (to be honest, I wear working gloves when there is a lot of cutting to be done), but also how easy it is to put down the force. Very good example would be Para3 vs PM2 - and hold both with the same grip (choked back, thumb on the spine) - as the Para3 in that grip you are not going to get a secure grip for the pinky and that actually makes a difference how much pressure you can put down without it being uncomfortable.

I usually use my k390 PM2 because I simply love the beast, but there is not way one can talk away that 3.7mm spine thickness. Not the best carboard cutter, period.

Of course thickness behind the edge plays a very important role too (BBB would tell you that it is the geometry that cuts and he would be correct), but most Spydercos come with some 0.02" behind the edge (some a little less, some a little more), so not really thin. But unless you have the means, skill and courage to go and do a (partial) regrind, that parameter is fixed. However if you do and do some thinning with a belt grinder (please only with water cooling) or on diamond plates - one can induce a very gentle convex over say 5 - 10 mm behind the edge and decrease the drag considerably while making the edge thinner. I will eventually do that to my PM2 once I have my workshop up and running again (around summer I guess).

[ZrowsN1s]

I cut a lot of cardboard.

The short version is, Police4 K390, PE or SE. The ONLY issue there is sharpening. If you can sharpen them, there's nothing better. Good geometry with a long blade and a good steel. Until they make a Police 4 in Maxamet, 15V, or S90V, the K390 LW P4 is as good as it gets for breaking down cardboard. The SE is super aggressive even when it's not sharp enough to push cut paper. I've still got the factory edge on mine, if it was PE I'd call it dull, but it shreds cardboard.

Alternatively Wharncliffe Endura/ Endelica/ delica. Wharn Delica K390 ir Hap 40 if you can still find one. Pricey and small bladed but the Karahawk is great for boxes. Matriarch is also pretty good. Native Chief S90V (still some out there) or S30V.

[JSumm]

I love having a larger blade on me at all times, and I will typically use that to break down boxes. Because it is on me, and I prefer it for it's versatility. However, the best Spyderco I have ever owned to destroy boxes was a Chaparral.

Aren’t chaparrals dangerous though?

Sorry… I couldn’t help myself.

I didn't mean to open it. Just use the tip closed.

[Hopweaver]

Speaking from experience, hands down the best Spyderco I have tried (to date) at breaking down cardboard boxes is the Embassy. The blade geometry allows the knife to cut through cardboard like butter. And at only 3.1 inches the blade meets your criteria too.

[FK]

Completely agree on preferring a box cutter/utility knife with upgraded blade for cardboard.
When it gets dull, a quick stropping on diamond paste will easily and quickly restore the apex.
Comfortable handles are available with utility knife designs and fixed blade positions for low cost.
I use a leather belt sheath to carry my antique Stanley fixed blade utility knife.

Regards,
FK

[ladybug93]

i bought serrated blades for my edc box cutter and it cuts like a beast. you should try them if you haven't.

[Superflex]

I like my Atlantic Salt 2 for box breakdown mostly because it resides in my tool chest in the garage.
The FFG LC200N does great and touches up super easy after use.
My SE Endura wharnie is probably better but sometimes it’s upstairs in the sock drawer and I’m too lazy to go upstairs to pick it up.

[TkoK83Spy]

Wharnies with a thin blade stock...I'd say the K390 Wharnie Delica would be a pretty good knife for the job. Though I see you have the standard K390 Delica, I still stand by that.

Watu and Native Chief also get votes from me.

[ladybug93]

wharnie with a thin blade stock... where have i seen one of those before...

[ladybug93]

sorry. i couldn't resist. i'll stop talking about box cutters now.

[JRinFL]

Cutting cardboard with your pocketknife is a way of learning how your knife performs. It is not a negative thing. Otherwise, what else are you cutting with your pocket knife that couldn't be cut with some other thing?

Open boxes = box cutter or back of a key
Open mail = letter opener or a finger
Rope = hatchet
Batoning kindling = hatchet
Carving wood = dedicated carving blades
Picking a splinter = tweezers
Food prep = kitchen knife
Thread or string = scissors

Should I go on? Pocket knives are meant to be used but are rarely the most perfect fit to get a job done. However, it is in the using where you learn the most.

[sethwm]

Speaking from experience, hands down the best Spyderco I have tried (to date) at breaking down cardboard boxes is the Embassy. The blade geometry allows the knife to cut through cardboard like butter. And at only 3.1 inches the blade meets your criteria too.

Out of stock everywhere.

[sethwm]

Cutting cardboard with your pocketknife is a way of learning how your knife performs. It is not a negative thing. Otherwise, what else are you cutting with your pocket knife that couldn't be cut with some other thing?

Open boxes = box cutter or back of a key
Open mail = letter opener or a finger
Rope = hatchet
Batoning kindling = hatchet
Carving wood = dedicated carving blades
Picking a splinter = tweezers
Food prep = kitchen knife
Thread or string = scissors

Should I go on? Pocket knives are meant to be used but are rarely the most perfect fit to get a job done. However, it is in the using where you learn the most.

Woah woah woah. Who are you? Superman?

[sethwm]

Especially on a thicker cardboard, the actual thickness and width of the blade plays the role as they both are play a role in drag and wedging. Look at Watu - 2.5mm thick and 20CV steel. I am not sure how that thin handle works for longer cutting sessions. Also GB2 with it's hollow grind works well. If you want Maxamet - look at the Sage 1 or Manix (I did not like the handle, but the blade is good).

Also - the comfort of the handle is very important, as it not only dictates whether you are going to get blisters (to be honest, I wear working gloves when there is a lot of cutting to be done), but also how easy it is to put down the force. Very good example would be Para3 vs PM2 - and hold both with the same grip (choked back, thumb on the spine) - as the Para3 in that grip you are not going to get a secure grip for the pinky and that actually makes a difference how much pressure you can put down without it being uncomfortable.

I usually use my k390 PM2 because I simply love the beast, but there is not way one can talk away that 3.7mm spine thickness. Not the best carboard cutter, period.

Of course thickness behind the edge plays a very important role too (BBB would tell you that it is the geometry that cuts and he would be correct), but most Spydercos come with some 0.02" behind the edge (some a little less, some a little more), so not really thin. But unless you have the means, skill and courage to go and do a (partial) regrind, that parameter is fixed. However if you do and do some thinning with a belt grinder (please only with water cooling) or on diamond plates - one can induce a very gentle convex over say 5 - 10 mm behind the edge and decrease the drag considerably while making the edge thinner. I will eventually do that to my PM2 once I have my workshop up and running again (around summer I guess).

Thanks for the thoughtful response. Good call on looking at the thickness.

[ladybug93]

Cutting cardboard with your pocketknife is a way of learning how your knife performs. It is not a negative thing. Otherwise, what else are you cutting with your pocket knife that couldn't be cut with some other thing?

Open boxes = box cutter or back of a key
Open mail = letter opener or a finger
Rope = hatchet
Batoning kindling = hatchet
Carving wood = dedicated carving blades
Picking a splinter = tweezers
Food prep = kitchen knife
Thread or string = scissors

Should I go on? Pocket knives are meant to be used but are rarely the most perfect fit to get a job done. However, it is in the using where you learn the most.

of course. i just posted about breaking down a stack of boxes with my astute. i can use any of my knives for boxes. none of them are the "ultimate" though, and most aren't even close to enjoyable to use for that purpose compared to the right tool because they make the work way harder over time.

[sethwm]

Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions and the levity. Got some great suggestions here!

[Blnd]

Cutting cardboard with your pocketknife is a way of learning how your knife performs. It is not a negative thing. Otherwise, what else are you cutting with your pocket knife that couldn't be cut with some other thing?

Open boxes = box cutter or back of a key
Open mail = letter opener or a finger
Rope = hatchet
Batoning kindling = hatchet
Carving wood = dedicated carving blades
Picking a splinter = tweezers
Food prep = kitchen knife
Thread or string = scissors

Should I go on? Pocket knives are meant to be used but are rarely the most perfect fit to get a job done. However, it is in the using where you learn the most.

Pocket knives are a compromise. Available if I need a sharp edge in a pinch. The vast disparities between preferences is testament to the varying needs people put priority on.

If my job involved cutting boxes - I’d carry a box cutter in lieu or a knife. It’s the right tool for the job.


If i break down on the road and need to use duct tape and an adjustable wrench to get home - FINE it’s what I have. It doesn’t make it the choice id make if I was in my garage.