Lansky spyder serrations sharpener.

[Cave_Hermit]

Hello has anyone used the lansky stone meant specifically for Spyderco serrations? Is it easy to use and was it effective? Thanks!

[Tims]

Lansky was my first guided sharpening system but I had to look up the serrated stone.

It’s essentially a mounted Sharpmaker triangle stone. It will work fine. If you’re a masochist, you could work on individual serrations but I would only do that to repair an edge.
I would use steady, sweeping strokes, mimicking the way you would work a serrated edge on a Sharpmaker. Speaking of which, given the choice, I would choose the Sharpmaker over a guided system for serrations.

[Cave_Hermit]

Lansky was my first guided sharpening system but I had to look up the serrated stone.

It’s essentially a mounted Sharpmaker triangle stone. It will work fine. If you’re a masochist, you could work on individual serrations but I would only do that to repair an edge.
I would use steady, sweeping strokes, mimicking the way you would work a serrated edge on a Sharpmaker. Speaking of which, given the choice, I would choose the Sharpmaker over a guided system for serrations.

I do own a sharpmaker I will give it a go. Would the corners of the white stones suffice? Thanks.

[Tims]

Lansky was my first guided sharpening system but I had to look up the serrated stone.

It’s essentially a mounted Sharpmaker triangle stone. It will work fine. If you’re a masochist, you could work on individual serrations but I would only do that to repair an edge.
I would use steady, sweeping strokes, mimicking the way you would work a serrated edge on a Sharpmaker. Speaking of which, given the choice, I would choose the Sharpmaker over a guided system for serrations.

I do own a sharpmaker I will give it a go. Would the corners of the white stones suffice? Thanks.

There are members here far more experienced with serrations than me but yeah, the white stones are what you want. Fine or ultra fine. I use ultra fine. UF in the 40 degree slots.

Have a search around the forum, theres a ton of threads on exactly this topic with lots of tips from exprerienced members. Read before you hit the stones and you can’t go wrong

Goodluck

[Jazz]

I have Lansky triangles, and they work just like the Sharpmaker stones, just shorter. I lay them flat and feel for the right angle. I finish on an ultrafine Sharpmaker stone layed flat.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I wonder has anyone tried mounting the Spyderco Sharpmaker rods in the Hapstone 7 Guided system and used it for Sharpening serrations.

Thinking this could be done by epoxying rods to a plate or something. Not sure the Hapstone 7 can grip the rod will have to try this after work today. If this works it would be the ultimate SE blade sharpening setup, would be able to angle cube it in and work them to perfection.

[Bill1170]

I wonder has anyone tried mounting the Spyderco Sharpmaker rods in the Hapstone 7 Guided system and used it for Sharpening serrations.

Thinking this could be done by epoxying rods to a plate or something. Not sure the Hapstone 7 can grip the rod will have to try this after work today. If this works it would be the ultimate SE blade sharpening setup, would be able to angle cube it in and work them to perfection.

If you epoxy the rod to a plate, aren’t you eliminating the usefulness of the other two corners of the rod? Maybe what I’m visualizing isn’t the same as what you meant.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

HI,

Yes the other two corners would become useless. I would sacrifice some rods for this if I can not get them to mount in the Hapstone 7 holder.

The other option would be to make some end caps that would fit the end of the triangle rods allowing removal and rotation of the stones.

The Hapstone 7 holds its stones by pressure and a groove the plates lock into through pressure.

[Evil D]

I have a triangle stone for my Lansky as well as my old Smith's sharpener (same concept as the Lansky but not as good). Honestly neither give me anywhere near the edge I get off the Sharpmaker.

In fact I think from now on I'm just gonna call it the Serrationmaker because it's probably the best option for sharpening SE. I'd like to try the SM rods on my Edge Pro but only so I could get a wider array of angles. As it is now almost every SE blade I own has to be sharpened on the 40 slots because 30 hits the shoulder. I think there's performance to be had by using a lower angle. You can tinker around with the SM and get different angles but I'd like a measurable/repeatable angle like I get on the Edge Pro.

[Cave_Hermit]

Thanks everyone I used the white and went slow and it made the serrations sharp again thought I tried it with the serrations of another knife brand and no luck. I gotta say I’m really impressed with the edge holding of vg10 and Spyderco serrations!

[ladybug93]

i have the lansky since before getting a sharpmaker. it works to hit the different widths of serrations, but the sharpmaker is a better sharpener. most people here just drag the knife across the corners slowly, sharpening through the serrations instead of sharpening each serration separately.

[sal]

I designed the Sharpmaker to sharpen our refined serrations. I still think it does the best job on our serrations. Made for each other. Yin and yang.

sal

[Supacede]

I designed the Sharpmaker to sharpen our refined serrations. I still think it does the best job on our serrations. Made for each other. Yin and yang.

sal

Hi Sal,

Regarding the Sharpmaker and assuming my ignorance is there any difference between "refined" serrations and "SE" as a rule regardless of year/model?

If so, does the difference pertain to CQI of "SE" from original design to current?

I guess I'm just curious as to what style of serration, if any particular, is designed to work best with the Sharpmaker.

:spyder:

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Hi Sal,

What are your recommendations when using the Sharpmaker for H1 Steel specifically the Pacific Salt and the Salt 2, 20 degrees or 15? Medium, Fine or Ultra Fine?

Thanks.

[Bloke]

I wonder has anyone tried mounting the Spyderco Sharpmaker rods in the Hapstone 7 Guided system and used it for Sharpening serrations.

Thinking this could be done by epoxying rods to a plate or something. Not sure the Hapstone 7 can grip the rod will have to try this after work today. If this works it would be the ultimate SE blade sharpening setup, would be able to angle cube it in and work them to perfection.

Hey Does, the Hapstone holds SharpMaker rods very securely.

A little hack … I use a little piece of leather at either end of the stone holder’s “jaws” on my Hapstone Pro to hold bare stones. It protects the powder coating and takes up any irregularities at the end of the stone affording better grip.

All said, I haven't sharpened any serrations this way. :)

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I wonder has anyone tried mounting the Spyderco Sharpmaker rods in the Hapstone 7 Guided system and used it for Sharpening serrations.

Thinking this could be done by epoxying rods to a plate or something. Not sure the Hapstone 7 can grip the rod will have to try this after work today. If this works it would be the ultimate SE blade sharpening setup, would be able to angle cube it in and work them to perfection.

Hey Does, the Hapstone holds SharpMaker rods very securely.

A little hack … I use a little piece of leather at either end of the stone holder’s “jaws” on my Hapstone Pro to hold bare stones. It protects the powder coating and takes up any irregularities at the end of the stone affording better grip.

All said, I haven't sharpened any serrations this way. :)

Thanks Bloke a great recommendation, I appreciate it.

[vivi]

Hi Sal,

What are your recommendations when using the Sharpmaker for H1 Steel specifically the Pacific Salt and the Salt 2, 20 degrees or 15? Medium, Fine or Ultra Fine?

Thanks.

I can't answer for Sal but I can share what I've been doing for the past 3 years.

On all 4 of my serrated Pacific Salts the edge was ground at 15 degrees. I've used this angle on all of my Pacific Salts without any durability issues*. I've experimented with a 20 degree microbevel on one of them.

I've tried every level of finish the sharpmaker offers. Diamond, medium, fine, ultrafine.

Diamond offers the most raw slicing aggression, but sacrifices push cutting ability.

Medium is the best balance between sharpening speed and performance. Push cutting ability is high and touch-ups are faster than with fine or UF, and there is some additional slicing aggression over higher polishes.

Fine is a really nice finish for serrated edges. It gives them excellent push cutting ability, while the serration pattern keeps plenty of slicing aggression. Better for people who run microbevels, polishing the wide serrations takes a while.

UF I would not recommend unless you run microbevels. Polishing the entire width of the serrations with them takes forever. I don't feel there is a performance increase over fine, but others might have a different experience.

Stropping, like PE, can be a nice final touch depending on your preference. Using a standard leather & wood strop, you can rub compound on the corner then use that like the corner of a sharpmaker rod.

With the standard sharpmaker setup, if you want maximum performance, I'd grind at 15 degrees per side with no microbevel, finishing with medium or fine.

If you just want a nice and sharp edge and aren't concerned with maximum performance, grind at 20 degrees and you will save a lot of time over 15 degrees.

If the edge starts feeling thick, just grind at 15 degrees with your coarsest stone, then do your 20 degree edge.

Diamond or CBN rods are incredibly time saving if you let the knife get completely dull or it gets heavily damaged.

The Pacific Salt in my pocket is ground at 15 degrees and is finished with medium. No microbevel, no strop. It has no issue push cutting post it notes and receipts:

https://youtu.be/YunJ8upmRg0

I've run every grit mentioned with this particular Pacific Salt and I settled on medium at 15 degrees as the best combo of slicing, push cutting, raw performance and sharpening speed.



* Running my Pacific Salts at 15 degrees with no microbevel, there was one time I saw the edge roll a bit after I had chopped through some branches. It sharpened out in a couple of minutes with fine rods and I have not seen this happen again, even during the same task. The edge has otherwise been 100% stable for my EDC uses.

[JD Spydo]

I used to have a lot of respect for Lansky's sharpening products. But in the past 5 years or so it seems that many companies that make sharpening tools have passed them up. I like all of Spyderco's sharpening tools far better than anything Lansky ever made. I even like DMT's sharpening tools better than I do Lansky's. Now Lansky still has a few specialty items that I use from time to time>> but with Spyderco's newer sharpening tools that continue down the product pipeline I really don't have any need for them anymore.

Even Fallkniven has better sharpening tools than Lansky in my humble opinion.