Jade/M4 Yojimbo

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
User avatar
Nemo3000
Member
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:15 am
Location: Paris, France
Contact:

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#161

Post by Nemo3000 »

Yep I'm still loocking for a "like" button.... ;-)
User avatar
Liquid Cobra
Member
Posts: 6489
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:38 pm
Location: British Columbia, CANADA

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#162

Post by Liquid Cobra »

legOFwhat? wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:51 am
@LC are you not adding hydrogen peroxide to the acid or rather adding the acid to the peroxide? (always add acid!)

No I’m dipping it in 100% acid. What’s the benefit of the way you’re describing?
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
User avatar
legOFwhat?
Member
Posts: 3106
Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2018 5:58 am
Location: Kentucky; Earth

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#163

Post by legOFwhat? »

Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:52 pm
legOFwhat? wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:51 am
@LC are you not adding hydrogen peroxide to the acid or rather adding the acid to the peroxide? (always add acid!)

No I’m dipping it in 100% acid. What’s the benefit of the way you’re describing?
I usually follow a similar method to this:https://www.instructables.com/id/AcidBr ... g-A-Knife/. Using muriatic acid along with the HP makes cupric chloride and can be reused. We've used it to etch circuit boards. Heard it's safer than ferric but don't quote me on that. I'm in no way an expert on this but it's worked pretty well for me.
-Larry
Hebrews 13:6 So we may boldly say: “The Lord is my helper; I will not fear. What can man do to me?”
MNOSD #0049
User avatar
Liquid Cobra
Member
Posts: 6489
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:38 pm
Location: British Columbia, CANADA

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#164

Post by Liquid Cobra »

Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

Image
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
Slash
Member
Posts: 1286
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:33 am
Location: SIN CITY

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#165

Post by Slash »

I suspect red loctite was used. Blade is a bit on the tight side, which is good if it loosens up on it's own. But, tried applying moderately high pressure and screw almost welded on. Doesn't bother me too much. Least I know screw won't loosen up naturally and cause slop. Figure friction will help polish up the parts for me. Wish I didn't already treat the blade and PIVOT with weaponshield...
Maybe someone that did some mods can confirm red loctite and best method for disassembly.
None clip side is the one that moves?
Thanks
User avatar
tvenuto
Member
Posts: 3790
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:16 am
Location: South Baltimore

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#166

Post by tvenuto »

Some bad news. Something went wrong while attempting to add serrations and Wiley said they’re contacting Spyderco for a blade replacement :eek: :mad: :( I’m in a glass cage of emotion. Not looking good...
Xander3Zero
Member
Posts: 50
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2018 1:27 pm

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#167

Post by Xander3Zero »

tvenuto wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:15 am
Some bad news. Something went wrong while attempting to add serrations and Wiley said they’re contacting Spyderco for a blade replacement :eek: :mad: :( I’m in a glass cage of emotion. Not looking good...
Are blade replacements typically available for sprint/exclusive models like this? That's certainly not the news you wanna hear.
User avatar
tvenuto
Member
Posts: 3790
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:16 am
Location: South Baltimore

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#168

Post by tvenuto »

No they are not. I’m hoping they have a special relationship with Spyderco and that Spyderco is willing to help them out to avoid an awkward situation. Mainly, this knife is not replaceable for what I paid for it. Fingers crossed.
User avatar
bearfacedkiller
Member
Posts: 11411
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:22 pm
Location: hiding in the woods...

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#169

Post by bearfacedkiller »

Oh no! I had a factory second Para2 serrated so my risk was really low. I hope they can work it out for you. Fingers crossed!

If all else fails maybe as a Spyderco dealer they have one of the other limited Yojimbos in stock that they could offer you in exchange.
-Darby
sal wrote:Knife afi's are pretty far out, steel junky's more so, but "edge junky's" are just nuts. :p
SpyderEdgeForever wrote: Also, do you think a kangaroo would eat a bowl of spagetti with sauce if someone offered it to them?
User avatar
abbazaba
Member
Posts: 4673
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:40 pm
Location: New England

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#170

Post by abbazaba »

Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....
Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.
User avatar
Liquid Cobra
Member
Posts: 6489
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:38 pm
Location: British Columbia, CANADA

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#171

Post by Liquid Cobra »

abbazaba wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:18 am
Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....
Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.

I listed ally went and bought a Tupperware container and a bag of smooth multi sized rocks from Canadian tire (think Home Depot). I put the rocks in the container, poured some olive oil in and threw in the blade. I then manually shook it with my arms for 5-10 minutes or so until I was satisfied with the result.

How’s that harbour freight tumbler working out for you? I think I’ll have to invest in one soon.
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
User avatar
abbazaba
Member
Posts: 4673
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 3:40 pm
Location: New England

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#172

Post by abbazaba »

Liquid Cobra wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:56 pm
abbazaba wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:18 am
Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....
Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.

I listed ally went and bought a Tupperware container and a bag of smooth multi sized rocks from Canadian tire (think Home Depot). I put the rocks in the container, poured some olive oil in and threw in the blade. I then manually shook it with my arms for 5-10 minutes or so until I was satisfied with the result.

How’s that harbour freight tumbler working out for you? I think I’ll have to invest in one soon.
I did a few Kershaws in a similar setup, both by hand and using the laundry dryer. One day I decided to invest in the rotary tumbler and ceramic media hoping to get a "better" look, but I don't think it changed much. After reading a bit, I think a vibration tumbler might give me better results but I've never used one.

The first time I ever forced a patina was because the blade arrived with a terrible patina that really bothered me, so I took it all the way to black with ferric chloride. I realize that this is not the best starting point, and definitely contributed the visible blotches after tumbling. The knife had a more "distressed" look at an earlier stage of tumbling (but never like yours), and I kept throwing it back in the tumbler seeing what would happen. I think I ultimately let it go past where I liked it best and it lost most of the effect and patina. Regardless, its pretty sweet as my dedicated mail opener :) I'll give it another try some day.

For the record, I didn't mask off anything, but did polish the pivot/lockface with 1500b after the process (and a new edge of course). ironically, it is now one of the smoothest and most solid PM2s that I have. I also put a piece of leather covered in stropping compound in the chuck of my drill and polished the inside of the Spydiehole for fun. All the hardware but the pivot got the acid bath too, and it's interesting that the lock side liner and stop pin appear to be a different type of metal than the screws and other liner.

Image
User avatar
Nemo3000
Member
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:15 am
Location: Paris, France
Contact:

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#173

Post by Nemo3000 »

Hello,

mine has arrived this morning IN France:

It will be my Jade Warrior !
https://nemoknivesreview.com/2018/10/13 ... e-warrior/

Image

Image

Image
User avatar
Nemo3000
Member
Posts: 461
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:15 am
Location: Paris, France
Contact:

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#174

Post by Nemo3000 »

And now here is my adventure in swapping the blades !!

https://nemoknivesreview.com/2018/10/15 ... and-forth/

Image
werm000
Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:38 pm

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#175

Post by werm000 »

Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

Image

I tried to acid etch an m4 blade and followed the exact same protocol you outlined here. However, when I went to dip a second time in the ferric chloride to get it a little darker, the etch was horribly uneven. I ended up sanding down everything with 0000 steel wool which removed the satin finish and made the blade more dull. Then, I tried to start over. The results were even worse... very blotchy. So, I took the steel wool and rubbed some of the darky blotchiness away and thought that maybe M4 is not appropriate for ferric chloride - but, your results prove me wrong. I ended up keeping it this way after some sanding away the dark spots with steel wool.

Side note, I etched the steel liners and that worked no problem - perfectly even. Do you know what I might have done wrong??
beuegBO.jpg
Michael Janich
Member
Posts: 2981
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Longmont, CO USA
Contact:

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#176

Post by Michael Janich »

Dear werm000:

Welcome to the Spyderco Forum.

Stay safe,

Mike
User avatar
ladybug93
Member
Posts: 8014
Joined: Tue May 15, 2018 11:20 pm

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#177

Post by ladybug93 »

werm000 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:46 pm
Liquid Cobra wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

Image

I tried to acid etch an m4 blade and followed the exact same protocol you outlined here. However, when I went to dip a second time in the ferric chloride to get it a little darker, the etch was horribly uneven. I ended up sanding down everything with 0000 steel wool which removed the satin finish and made the blade more dull. Then, I tried to start over. The results were even worse... very blotchy. So, I took the steel wool and rubbed some of the darky blotchiness away and thought that maybe M4 is not appropriate for ferric chloride - but, your results prove me wrong. I ended up keeping it this way after some sanding away the dark spots with steel wool.

Side note, I etched the steel liners and that worked no problem - perfectly even. Do you know what I might have done wrong??

beuegBO.jpg
did you touch the blade with your fingers? the unevenness could be from oils in your skin on the blade that prevented the acid from reaching everything evenly.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
User avatar
Liquid Cobra
Member
Posts: 6489
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:38 pm
Location: British Columbia, CANADA

Re: Jade/M4 Yojimbo

#178

Post by Liquid Cobra »

Did you wear gloves?
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
Post Reply