Slight rust on M4 spine...

[Bloke]

The brothers have covered all the bases! :cool:

I'd like to suggest you invest in a "knife eraser" they are like a pencil eraser with an abrasive mixed in. They come in fine, med and coarse and offer good control and cost very little. The Japanese make them as does Lansky.

I'm a bit of a lube freak too and can tell you unequivocally, Eezox is your friend, you just haven't met yet.

Good luck! :)

[bdblue]

I like to use my M4 Manix 2 when I work on various projects around the house. One day I must have been carrying it while I was sweating and I found this rust. It cleaned off easily with some normal metal polish. I sometimes use oil on the blade or a product that A.G. Russell sells but I'm not consistent with it.

[Chumango]

In similar rust testing I have seen before, Rem oil did pretty well.

A finer grit than 400 sandpaper would help reduce the chance for rust - less surface texture to hold moisture. Polished would be best, but then it would not look like the factory finish.

[Skaaphaas]

The brother have covered all the bases! :cool:

I'd like to suggest you invest in a "knife eraser" they are like a pencil eraser with an abrasive mixed in. They come in fine, med and coarse and offer good control and cost very little. The Japanese make them as does Lansky.

I'm a bit of a lube freak too and can tell you unequivocally, Eezox is your friend, you just haven't met yet.

Good luck! :)

I'm a really big fan of Eezox, I like how it dries to the touch and protects.

However I've stopped using it on my knife blades as it is probably not safe for ingestion, so I use ballistol on my knives instead.

If you're not going to be cutting foodstuffs, Eezox would be a winner:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

[Bloke]

I'm a really big fan of Eezox, I like how it dries to the touch and protects.

However I've stopped using it on my knife blades as it is probably not safe for ingestion, so I use ballistol on my knives instead.

If you're not going to be cutting foodstuffs, Eezox would be a winner:
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Ah, hahaha! Man, I don't know how many blokes I've directed to that very site! I didn't even try the link! Ah, hahaha! :)
It's an eye opener and certainly reflects my experience with Eezox. :cool:

Over the years I've tried nearly every specialty lube sold in gun shops and tackle stores here in Oz and a few that shipped from the US. I'm sure all the established players have a regime that works for them. To the young players I say precede with caution and beware of BS SuperLubes and their exorbitant claims. :eek:

Two lubes (lubes being a loose term) I use and wouldn't be without are, Eezox for rust protection and Nycolube 127 for CLP. I use it on guns, knife pivots and everything else. It's nearly as good at rust prevention as Eezox, has great lubricity and the best cleaner. If you leave it on surface rust for a while it seems to clean it up, a little bit like rust converter.

I hope I'm not OT, but I've read some good reports on Nano Oil. Particularly some positive observations on a Clock Makers Forum, specifically on lubricity under load on heavy pendulum pivots ...., if my memory serves me? If true it would certainly avail it to use in knife pivots and bolt locking lugs. :)

[The Mastiff]

I use a layer of Renaissance paste wax on my blades to protect against rust on my rustier knives. It keeps stuff like the above from happening in my experience. It is also not going to cause me to worry about ingesting poisons or uglying it up with a forced patina ( nothing but ugly rust in my eyes).Of course some cutting will strip it off the blade so reapplication may be a common thing depending on how you use the knife. I agree that mirroring up the finish does help with corrosion resistance. I don't find I really need it usually.

I have to admit though I have not seen rust that bad from sweat even on untreated/uncoated blades that went swimming with me at Atlantic beach or down in Can Cun. Even steel less corrosion resistant than CPM M4. You really have salty/acidic sweat IMO. How long did that sit?

[anagarika]

bdblue,

The rust because of sweat on your manix is totally the opposite of what I experience on my Endura or Stretch. The vapor of my sweat usually discolored the part of the blade covered by handle when knife is closed. Yours seems to be on the exposed part instead.

I don't think you carry your folder opened :confused:

To OP,

Once my M4 GB1 has patina, & regularly wiped with vaseline, it doesn't rust or pit anymore.

[Evil D]

In similar rust testing I have seen before, Rem oil did pretty well.

A finer grit than 400 sandpaper would help reduce the chance for rust - less surface texture to hold moisture. Polished would be best, but then it would not look like the factory finish.

As much as I dislike polished blades (too flashy for me) I wouldn't be opposed to Spyderco producing blades like 52100 in a high polished finish for this reason. The added bonus is that you can always sand and repolish a polished blade and remove any rust that does form and bring it back to looking new again. This is why Victorinox polish all their tools (for reduced corrosion).

[arty]

I use a Lee Valley version of Ren wax that is much less expensive. It works on all my carbon steel blades with minimal chrome content - uncoated 5160 large blades. It works like a charm.
When I expect to need rust resistance, I make sure I pocket a knife with a steel blade in 154cm or VG10.

[Blerv]

A mild abrasive on a terry cloth. I've used toothpaste before (and rinsed it well afterwards).

You can protect it with natural oils. Mineral won't go rancid. Synthetic ones are better at fending off rust. / good balance in my experience is Froglube; it's a nice balance between the worlds and is food safe.

[Molle Ninja]

Some slight rust is starting to build up on the spine of my M4 PM2.

What can I use to white it off.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

I usually only use stainless blades and never had this problem before. If it gets bad, going to switch out the blade with a S110V blade because I have a nice set of Flytanium scales on it. I have 2 M4 blades so I did the swap on my vomit green jade M4. Thx...



Harry

I'll take the jade scales!

[DrtyHarry]

Some slight rust is starting to build up on the spine of my M4 PM2.

What can I use to white it off.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

I usually only use stainless blades and never had this problem before. If it gets bad, going to switch out the blade with a S110V blade because I have a nice set of Flytanium scales on it. I have 2 M4 blades so I did the swap on my vomit green jade M4. Thx...



Harry

I'll take the jade scales!

I was going to sell them....but changed my mind should I ever need/break/damage a scale on any of my other PM2s. Sorry....

Harry

[Molle Ninja]

Some slight rust is starting to build up on the spine of my M4 PM2.

What can I use to white it off.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

I usually only use stainless blades and never had this problem before. If it gets bad, going to switch out the blade with a S110V blade because I have a nice set of Flytanium scales on it. I have 2 M4 blades so I did the swap on my vomit green jade M4. Thx...



Harry

I'll take the jade scales!

I was going to sell them....but changed my mind should I ever need/break/damage a scale on any of my other PM2s. Sorry....

Harry

No prob! By the way, Barkeeper's Friend works to remove rust, too.

[DrtyHarry]

Barkeeper's Friend?

[Bdubs808]

Aw man. I have the exact same problem on my Jade M4 PM2, rust spots on the spine and a little on the left side of the blade, near the spine. I live on humid Oahu, Hawaii and I work in a bar, so after seeing the rust spots, I've left it in my Spyderpack, oiled and safe (I also have sweaty hands). So thank you OP for asking the question, and for everyone's valued input.

Mean while I carry my S110V PM2 most of the time at work.

[ejames13]

.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

Eezox is by far the best preventative on the market. It's "dry" after treatment and protects at a molecular level. It has performed flawlessly for me for a long time. You'll never see rust on your blades again. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... ight=eezox

Nice. I use CLP. Looks like it came in a close second.

The mineral oil did really poorly. That's kind of surprising.

[mattman]

I recently used a baking soda paste and a pencil eraser to remove some spots on my Mantra, to good effect.

I dumped a small pile of baking soda on the bench, dunked the eraser in some water, picked up some soda with the wet eraser, and rubbed with the grind lines....

Seemed to work well, time will tell.

[spyderg]

On my GB I have never seen a spot of rust. It developed a patina slowly and never any rust. When I got my Mantra I wasn't at all worried because of experience with the GB. Well, first day carrying it and sweating = rust on exposed part of the blade. Ok, I pulled out some fine steel wool and got rid of it. It left no marks on the blade. ( next I decided to flatten out the spine a bit and round the edges a little too but none of that applies to the whole rust issue) anyways, I then forced a bit of a patina by sticking it in, if I recall a potato or an onion and some random piece of fruit for an hour or so. It definitely didn't take as nice a patina as 1095 does but no rust since and I've carried it on a number of hot sweaty days since.