1095 Carbon Steel question.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

A "knife expert" told me that when it comes to carbon steel, 1095 is a good general-use steel for blades, and, can take a very good high satin polish/finish. Do you all think quality 1095 carbon steel when satin finished and coupled to FRN or durable rubberized handle grips, is a good combination if made right?

[Sjucaveman]

My becker bk9 is tough as nails. I really like the knife. The bedliner blade coating not so much

[knivesandbooks]

Sure thing! I get sweet thin edges on my Great Eastern Cutlery knives, all of which are 1095. Some are satin and some are polished. They take a great polish and a good toothy edge. My favorite, #81 Bull Moose, has two blades. On the Spear Point, I keep a courser edge; on the Clip Point, I polish it up.

[Doc Dan]

1095 is good stuff and it can be run hard. It is very tough. It will take a beating and keep going.

[Evil D]

Very good basic steel. There are millions of Kabars out there to support this and ESEE make a fine living off it.

[The Mastiff]

A "knife expert" told me that when it comes to carbon steel, 1095 is a good general-use steel for blades, and, can take a very good high satin polish/finish. Do you all think quality 1095 carbon steel when satin finished and coupled to FRN or durable rubberized handle grips, is a good combination if made right?

It's a good steel and fairly versatile. Everything from low 50's rc to 64 or so depending on the intended use. I really like 1095 lockback knives with blackwood, ebony and cocobolo scales. These are some of the only natural materials I will take over FRN for knives. Usually I go for practicality instead of looks which I feel FRN has but the above woods seem to suit me and I will pay a little extra for nice ones. I've seen Ebony scaled knives over a hundred years old that were still very serviceable and these woods are not really all that fragile but my FRN knives have been through a lot for a long time and show no signs of age or deterioration. I wouldn't want to put my Ebony GEC's through the washing machine and dryer in my pants pocket like I did my FRN Enduras.

Joe

[awa54]

As long as corrosion resistance isn't a big concern 1095 is a good balanced steel, but don't expect edge retention like a high-alloy tool steel...

As far as modern materials like FRN, I think that kind of construction is fine for any steel, but might give the impression that a knife is intended for use in all sorts of conditions, which could lead to disappointment when the 1095 blade rusts. Powder coated fixed blades with all-weather handles make sense with 1095, but not folders IMO. Not that I wouldn't consider a 1095 Sprint from Spyderco, but I doubt that such a common steel would ever be used.

[knivesandbooks]

A "knife expert" told me that when it comes to carbon steel, 1095 is a good general-use steel for blades, and, can take a very good high satin polish/finish. Do you all think quality 1095 carbon steel when satin finished and coupled to FRN or durable rubberized handle grips, is a good combination if made right?

It's a good steel and fairly versatile. Everything from low 50's rc to 64 or so depending on the intended use. I really like 1095 lockback knives with blackwood, ebony and cocobolo scales. These are some of the only natural materials I will take over FRN for knives. Usually I go for practicality instead of looks which I feel FRN has but the above woods seem to suit me and I will pay a little extra for nice ones. I've seen Ebony scaled knives over a hundred years old that were still very serviceable and these woods are not really all that fragile but my FRN knives have been through a lot for a long time and show no signs of age or deterioration. I wouldn't want to put my Ebony GEC's through the washing machine and dryer in my pants pocket like I did my FRN Enduras.

Joe

GEC's ebony is great. I've got a 2 blades American Jack that is phenomenal.

GEC's polymer Bull Nose Sodbuster is a great synthetic alternative where you still get great f&f, 1095, and a very strong pull. I'm sure whatever the type of plastic it is isn't as good as Spyderco's frn but it has been fine for me.

[The Mastiff]

GEC's ebony is great. I've got a 2 blades American Jack that is phenomenal.

GEC's polymer Bull Nose Sodbuster is a great synthetic alternative where you still get great f&f, 1095, and a very strong pull. I'm sure whatever the type of plastic it is isn't as good as Spyderco's frn but it has been fine for me.

I was fortunate to be able to get the lockback 99 plastic handled model originally released in O1 along with two other O1 models without locks. I can't recall the model numbers. One was two bladed. As much as I like 1095 I prefer O1 and feel like it has a better grain structure with maybe a little better wear resistance even though they have similar carbon content.

Long ago I did get a yellow 1095 FRN ( I think it is FRN) Moore maker lockback with oval opening hole. It was a cool little knife that only cost about $30 new back then in the early 2000's. I wish I knew where it was now. :)

Joe

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Thank you all for the great answers, this helps alot. One reason I mentioned this, infact, is that I notice Kabar and Ontario Knives seems to have made some decent quality knives with both 1095 and Kraton and/or nylon based handles.

The Spec Plus Series is a very good one from Ontario.

Let me ask you this: If 1095 does start to rust, and get corrosion spots, what do you all recommend to get rid of that and polish it back to a satin finish, if it came with a satin finish originally?

[The Meat man]

I've got a USMC Ka-Bar I've used extensively on camping trips, hikes, etc. It is a great steel/knife for this application. Sharpens easily to a hair- whittling edge and can take considerable abuse.

One time, I used it (along with a 6" folding saw and a sharp stick) to cut down a giant beech tree about two feet in diameter. The tree was pretty rotten but still. :)

[Bodog]

.

Let me ask you this: If 1095 does start to rust, and get corrosion spots, what do you all recommend to get rid of that and polish it back to a satin finish, if it came with a satin finish originally?

Sand, spit, and rocks. I'm serious. If you have a knife with 1095 (or any other non-stainless steel) and you're worried about it having a nice, smooth satin finish that never needs to be sanded, then it's the wrong steel for your needs. I carry M4 everyday and took the primary bevel to the stones immediately to get rid of the obvious satin grind marks. Is it a collectable now? No, but i also don't think twice about using it as what it was meant to be, a tool.

[deckeda]

I don’t have any sand or rocks in my kitchen, for my Ontario Knife Co. “Old Hickory” kitchen knives. Got a recommendation there? Like sandpaper, then knife oil to protect the blade? Thanks.

[O,just,O]

It is a truck spring. Treat it like one.
O.

[kwakster]

I would take 1095 Cro-Van over standard 1095 any day of the week, as it offers about the same ease of sharpening, but much better edge taking & holding and also way higher toughness.
My old Western Bowie is a prime example of how good 1095 Cro-Van can be: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/wes ... a.1507584/

[awa54]

It is a truck spring. Treat it like one.
O.

Springs are more likely to be 5160, another capable HC steel, when used in appropriate designs.