Para 3 Defect?

[milanteubel]

Hey guys, I'm new around here. Just picked up a Para 3 off eBay, the guy said it was brand new from Amazon, he only cut a few pieces of paper with it. He was selling it because he wanted satin instead of stonewash. Anyway, I've had it for two days now and I love everything about it. However, it seems that my compression lock is really hard to push. I looked closer and found this ridge (see picture). Could the lock be getting stuck in that groove making it hard to compress? I don't have anything else to compare it to except videos of other people closing it and it looks effortless. Does any of your blades have that groove? Should I contact Spyderco/send it in for them to examine? Thanks

[Michael Janich]

The machined "shelf' and the small "ramp" for the lock's detent ball are both purposeful design features. They are not defects and neither would affect the release of the lock. The lock bar engages the ramped surface of the tang above the "shelf."

Stay safe,

Mike

[Sharp Guy]

This subject came up a couple years ago after Spyderco first started grinding the shelf on the Para 3s. Additional discussion can be found in the thread linked below.

//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... a+3+Defect

[SF Native]

Sounds like you have some lock stick.
Usually some pencil lead on the lock interface works until it breaks in. Probably why the guy passed it on. I’ve had some with lock stick and it will go away with some use.

[Crux]

I am assuming it's a Maxamet since that's the only stock stonewashed Para 3.

[ekastanis]

I am assuming it's a Maxamet since that's the only stock stonewashed Para 3.

I don't think that's the case, I got a brown S35VN Para 3 and it has some sort of fine media-tumbled finish on the blade. It's definitely not machine satin like the blue M390, smooth black Cruwear or orange XHP models. It's more like the finish on a G10 S30V Manix 2.

I don't know what finish the regular S30V Para 3s have, but this thread mentions a CQI blade finish change around the beginning of 2018.

//forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=77325

[milanteubel]

Thanks for the feedback. So from what I gathered I should color the contact points with pencil and keep using it and the stick will leave? Anything else you reccomend? Thanks again. Also, its s30v

[Crux]

I am assuming it's a Maxamet since that's the only stock stonewashed Para 3.

I don't think that's the case, I got a brown S35VN Para 3 and it has some sort of fine media-tumbled finish on the blade. It's definitely not machine satin like the blue M390, smooth black Cruwear or orange XHP models. It's more like the finish on a G10 S30V Manix 2.

I don't know what finish the regular S30V Para 3s have, but this thread mentions a CQI blade finish change around the beginning of 2018.

//forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=77325

The s35vn is a satin and not stonewashed. The other "satins" are not actually satin. The Maxamet is the only stonewashed Para 3.

[Crux]

Thanks for the feedback. So from what I gathered I should color the contact points with pencil and keep using it and the stick will leave? Anything else you reccomend? Thanks again. Also, its s30v

If it's a Para 3 s30v and it's stonewashed then it's after market. I have one acid washed.

[ekastanis]

The s35vn is a satin and not stonewashed. The other "satins" are not actually satin. The Maxamet is the only stonewashed Para 3.

What are the other "satins" then actually? I (and many others I suspect) thought that satin refers to a finish applied with an abrasive belt or wheel leaving the surface with scratches of fairly uniform depth, typically all in the same direction. This is not the finish on the S35VN Para 3 (but it is on the S35VN PM2).

The S35VN Para 3 has a tumbled finish, maybe it's not a stone wash, but the finishing process would be similar, just with finer media.

[brainfriction]

I've got a Para 3 with the flat non-stepped tang and the action is smooth as butter. The other two (digi camo and Rex 45) have the stepped tang and had lock stick that I couldn't get rid of. Ended up taking my dremel and grinding away the step, making the ramp a little steeper so the lock bar can disengage quickly without getting wedged in too far and dragging when you go to release it. They're both just as smooth as the other one now, but that's the only way I've been able to fix it. oil or graphite only makes it worse since you end up getting a later lockup and it makes the lock-stick more pronounced. I wouldn't recommend modding it unless you're confident you know what you're doing or you'll just end up making it worse or potentially unsafe.

[milanteubel]

Yeah, I'll probably keep opening it and hope it goes away. If it goes a long time and is still sticking then I may try something else. Thanks for all the help!

[milanteubel]

Update: I colored the contact surface with a pencil and now it is working perfectly smooth! I really appreciate all the help!

[Bugeyeblue]

I've got a Para 3 with the flat non-stepped tang and the action is smooth as butter. The other two (digi camo and Rex 45) have the stepped tang and had lock stick that I couldn't get rid of. Ended up taking my dremel and grinding away the step, making the ramp a little steeper so the lock bar can disengage quickly without getting wedged in too far and dragging when you go to release it. They're both just as smooth as the other one now, but that's the only way I've been able to fix it. oil or graphite only makes it worse since you end up getting a later lockup and it makes the lock-stick more pronounced. I wouldn't recommend modding it unless you're confident you know what you're doing or you'll just end up making it worse or potentially unsafe.

Any way you can post a picture of how this looks after you were done with it? I’m going to try this tonight.

[brainfriction]

Any way you can post a picture of how this looks after you were done with it? I’m going to try this tonight.

Sure :)

The first step is to color the whole tang with black sharpie, then flick it open and close several times until the lock bar wears it off, it will leave a small mark at it's resting point, then it will also wear off the spot where it is dragging and causing the lock stick. The only other advice I can give is go slow! You can always remove more later :D Hope this helps.

[gull wing]

Let us know how it works.
That is pretty steep ramp. I hope the lock lug doesn't slide back to the unlocked position when pressure is put to the blade spine.