What to look for in a HawkBill
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What to look for in a HawkBill
After receiving good input from the community here I decided to purchase the Gayle Bradley2.
Now a new question what to look for in a Hawkbill? Serrated or non serrated? I have been circling the issue of buying a Hawkbill for some time now and would appreciate suggestions.
I am not looking at one from the perspective of tactical or self defense but everyday utility. The salt series catches my eye but am unsure about the partly exposed blade when closed in the thin handles.
Input appreciated.
Thank you.
Now a new question what to look for in a Hawkbill? Serrated or non serrated? I have been circling the issue of buying a Hawkbill for some time now and would appreciate suggestions.
I am not looking at one from the perspective of tactical or self defense but everyday utility. The salt series catches my eye but am unsure about the partly exposed blade when closed in the thin handles.
Input appreciated.
Thank you.
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Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
You should definitely pick up one of the orange Spyderhawk sprints in H1 fully serrated. Pages upon pages here on the forum about the advantages of SE H1 and for a sub $100 knife it might be unparalleled for it's cutting ability vs weight. I hope in the future we will see a FFG version of the Spyderhawk in LC200N
Edit.... this thread needs eye candy for clarity.
With the Caly 3.5
Edit.... this thread needs eye candy for clarity.
With the Caly 3.5
Last edited by xceptnl on Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- xceptnl
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Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
The Ladybug hawkbill and Dragonfly hawkbill also share the same advantages of the Spyderhawk while being much more manageable to carry. My Ladyhawk is almost always in my watch pocket and probably sees more use than any of the typical knives that I daily carry.
Edit ... thos shows the Spyderhawk along side the Ladyhawk and Caly 3.5.
Edit ... thos shows the Spyderhawk along side the Ladyhawk and Caly 3.5.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
My personal preference for hawkbill is SE. The blade shape + teeth is really great for cutting baling twine/wrap/netting, opening bags of feed or mulch, cutting through smaller vines or briars and similar type tasks. Choosing H1 bladesteel is necessary for wet conditions as it is a rust proof steel.
Spydergirl88
3 Nats, 1 Chap, 1 Sham, 1 Urb
3 Nats, 1 Chap, 1 Sham, 1 Urb
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
If the size is ok then absolutely get a Spyderhawk while you can. SE is also definitely the way to go. If you end up not liking it they will likely increase in value over time since it isn't a standard production model and there's really nothing else like it in the catalog. I'm also fond of the Dragonfly and Ladybug hawkbills but the Spyderhawk is definitely king.
Last edited by Evil D on Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
Hawkbill Dragonfly or Tasman SE. Sharpmaker is a must have accessory to go with SE hawkbills.
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"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
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Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
David, wasn't it you that posted a thread over this past summer where you went and attacked a pretty massive bush of vines around a tree, using the Spyderhawk?Evil D wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 2:50 pmIf the size is ok then absolutely get a Spyderhawk while you can. SE is also definitely the way to go. If you end up not liking it they will likely increase in value over time since it isn't a standard production model and there's really nothing else like it in the catalog. I'm also fond of the Dragonfly and Ladybug hawkbills but the Spyderhawk is definitely king.
If it was you, or whoever it was...it was quite impressive, stands out to me when talking about this knife.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
I want to agree with my good Brothers here concerning the Serrated SPYDERHAWK model. Because at this time it is my most favorite Spyderco Hawkbill to work with. I've been carrying my yellow handled, Spyderedged, H-1 SPYDERHAWK for most of this week already. I own 6 Spyderhawk models at this present time and that's even including the nuclear orange, Sprint Run SPYDERHAWK that my good Brothers got for me when I was laid up with radical knee surgery this past summer.
But my recommendation to you Sir is to start out with a mid-sized unit like the HARPY, MERLIN or TASMAN. Because unless you've worked with a lot of Hawkbill blades already or at least have used a commercial linoleum knife of which most are Hawkbills then I do believe that a conservative approach is a more wise choice until you get the hang of using one on a daily basis. If you're lucking enough to find a G-10 Harpy or one of the older Carbon Fiber units then grab one of them. Of if you can't find one of those then just go with the standard issue stainless handled, full Spyderedged Harpy. You will see what I mean when you begin using it as a companion blade.
But my recommendation to you Sir is to start out with a mid-sized unit like the HARPY, MERLIN or TASMAN. Because unless you've worked with a lot of Hawkbill blades already or at least have used a commercial linoleum knife of which most are Hawkbills then I do believe that a conservative approach is a more wise choice until you get the hang of using one on a daily basis. If you're lucking enough to find a G-10 Harpy or one of the older Carbon Fiber units then grab one of them. Of if you can't find one of those then just go with the standard issue stainless handled, full Spyderedged Harpy. You will see what I mean when you begin using it as a companion blade.
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:25 pmDavid, wasn't it you that posted a thread over this past summer where you went and attacked a pretty massive bush of vines around a tree, using the Spyderhawk?Evil D wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 2:50 pmIf the size is ok then absolutely get a Spyderhawk while you can. SE is also definitely the way to go. If you end up not liking it they will likely increase in value over time since it isn't a standard production model and there's really nothing else like it in the catalog. I'm also fond of the Dragonfly and Ladybug hawkbills but the Spyderhawk is definitely king.
If it was you, or whoever it was...it was quite impressive, stands out to me when talking about this knife.
It was me, I have a history of doing really stupid amounts of yard work with folders lol. It is a very capable knife despite having no liners and being so light.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
Thank you for such an informative and well meaning reply. I tend to go large ont he blades and Nuclear Orange is getting my attention how thick is it in the pocket wht could it be compared to? That is a bit of a concern.JD Spydo wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 4:36 pmI want to agree with my good Brothers here concerning the Serrated SPYDERHAWK model. Because at this time it is my most favorite Spyderco Hawkbill to work with. I've been carrying my yellow handled, Spyderedged, H-1 SPYDERHAWK for most of this week already. I own 6 Spyderhawk models at this present time and that's even including the nuclear orange, Sprint Run SPYDERHAWK that my good Brothers got for me when I was laid up with radical knee surgery this past summer.
But my recommendation to you Sir is to start out with a mid-sized unit like the HARPY, MERLIN or TASMAN. Because unless you've worked with a lot of Hawkbill blades already or at least have used a commercial linoleum knife of which most are Hawkbills then I do believe that a conservative approach is a more wise choice until you get the hang of using one on a daily basis. If you're lucking enough to find a G-10 Harpy or one of the older Carbon Fiber units then grab one of them. Of if you can't find one of those then just go with the standard issue stainless handled, full Spyderedged Harpy. You will see what I mean when you begin using it as a companion blade.
Thank you very much.
Re: What to look for in a HawkBill
Seems like stainless Harpy models don’t go for very much on eBay. Not a bad option. Most of them are SE.
I’m not sure there’s much agreement on the applications hawkbills excel at other than gardening chores. The Harpy and Superhawk are pretty thick blades. The Tasman is thin. I find the Harpy good for opening packages but honestly a leaf shaped SE blade is better.
If you can find one the Lil Matriarch is kind of a nice compromise for EDC.
I’m not sure there’s much agreement on the applications hawkbills excel at other than gardening chores. The Harpy and Superhawk are pretty thick blades. The Tasman is thin. I find the Harpy good for opening packages but honestly a leaf shaped SE blade is better.
If you can find one the Lil Matriarch is kind of a nice compromise for EDC.