Doc Dan wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:51 am
I have several 50/50 knives, but only 1 fully serrated. It is a N5 LW. It is not anywhere near as sharp as it should be. It was quite dull when I got it. I have worked on the edge, but it is still not really sharp. It will not shave hair, but it is a far cry better than when I got it. I have had other makes (no longer) with full serrations and that were quite sharp. They were great for a lot of things and not so great for a lot of things. Serrations will zip through a seat belt or a rope like tissue paper if they are sharp but will bind and drag if they are not. However, with a 50/50 I get the best of both.
Another issue that most serrated blades have is that they are all sharpened on one side only. When I cut things, the knife does not want to go in a straight line, but wanders in the direction of the blade edge slant. Surely it is possible to serrate an edge on both sides, isn't it?
I wouldn't say it's impossible, but maybe impractical. If you think about how wide the typical SE bevel is, that makes the blade grind thickness behind the bevel fairly thick. If you take a blade that is a true chisel grind, as in the back of the blade is at true 0 degrees/flat straight up and down, then in order to make a blade with serrations on both sides you would basically mirror that chisel grind and make a common V shaped grind like we see on any PE knife. The problem would be that the resulting thickness behind the bevel would now be twice as thick, almost as if it were a low/thick scandi grind. It wouldn't be too bad inside the large serrations but the humps between them would be very thick and would likely wedge into everything.
Something that could be done is to grind the back of the blade into a saber/scandi grind so that the back of the blade has a grind that matches the angle of the serrations on the front side, but again the resulting thickness would be much more than a chisel grind. It seems to me that FFG tends to counter a little of the "chisel grind walk" that you're talking about since the resulting edge is closer to a V than a true chisel grind, or at least I've experienced less of this than with hollow grinds where I've had the same issue even with PE blades.
Another idea is counter spaced serrations on both sides, I know other companies have done this but I've never tried them so I can't say how well that works. It seems like the blade would want to zig zag depending on where the blade is in the material being cut.