It just takes the edge right off.

[Evil D]

Yikes, that's ugly! Can't believe that much damage to S110V on a single strap.

On a single steel strap it doesn't surprise me. I wouldn't say S110V is fragile, I think it's much tougher than some people suggest but it does seem more likely to chip in situations like this. I've cut a bunch of plastic packing straps without any edge damage at all but steel vs steel is a different story. Edge geometry is also a factor, if he knew ahead of time that he'd be cutting a steel strap then maybe a higher edge angle could have helped.

[Pelagic]

At work, I keep a $15 worksharp sharpener (325 cbn/ceramic) as well as a piece of leather loaded with 30-40 micron diamond powder. Tonight I also happen to have my block of basswood loaded with 30-40 micron diamond powder (I use this side the most), as well as 3, 1, and 0.5 micron compounds on the other 3 sides. I also have a cheap ceramic rod that just came in and want to test. A small coarse pocket stone in CBN or diamond would be a good investment and I'm one of the few that will recommend coarse stropping on the go. Instant burr removal and an excellent slicing edge (which can also push-cut newspaper) in no time. Restoring a COMPLETELY blunted edge to a very high degree of sharpness is about a 5 minute job.

S110V can cut through certain metals such as copper with virtually zero edge damage (12 dps does it easily in my limited experience), but as mentioned before, steel is a different story.

[tps3443]

I’m just glad I’ve got it back right again. I know the Tenacious, and resilience would do fine. But I really just don’t like them lol. I like my PM2 a lot and I might get another just like it.

[The Meat man]

I'm actually surprised that the blade cut through the strap at all.

[ZrowsN1s]

Im a fan of Dragonflys for back ups. They disappear in the pocket, but pack a big punch in a small package. You might pick up one of the Vtoku 2 Dflys when they drop. Or hunt around for a HAP40 one. There's still a few out there.

[SpyderScout]

Not sure Vtoku 2 would be the best choice to use on (metal) straps...

[SpyderScout]

I have an Endura in V-Tpku 2, so its not like Im not a fan. Just saying.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

I’m ordering another knife Friday. I need a legitimate backup knife for my PM2 Blurple. I may just buy a Military haha! Or PM3 still unsure. I leave the Tenacious, and resilience at home as they don’t work well for long.

Warning Serious warning!!

If you go for the military the PM2s and para 3s will go unused. Talking from experience Sal knew what he was doing with the Military.

[JonLeBlanc]

Jeez that was ugly tho lol

[vivi]

I’m ordering another knife Friday. I need a legitimate backup knife for my PM2 Blurple. I may just buy a Military haha! Or PM3 still unsure. I leave the Tenacious, and resilience at home as they don’t work well for long.

Warning Serious warning!!

If you go for the military the PM2s and para 3s will go unused. Talking from experience Sal knew what he was doing with the Military.

I can second that. The Military hardly weighs any more than a Para 2, but offers a more comfortable handle and some extra cutting edge.

TPS3443, you might want to look into a serrated Tasman Salt for pallet straps. I carried mine when I worked a warehouse job where I was cutting at least 50 of those thick nylon straps per shift. The hawkbill blade also did a great job of slicing through the plastic wrap, and slicing tape on boxes.

I used to carry a Military + Tasman SE, and it was a great combo. The Millie was kept really thin and sharp, and I'd cut most things with it, and the SE Tasman got all the dirty jobs and tasks that might damage the edge.

H1 is incredibly tough stuff.

[BornIn1500]

When cutting straps, especially when there's a chance of metal bands, why not just use some wire cutters? Seems like a better tool for the job and it's not hard to carry a small pair of them in your pocket. Or not... I mean, it has kind of been funny reading all your posts with your newfound knife interest.

[Sharp Guy]

Not sure Vtoku 2 would be the best choice to use on (metal) straps...

From what the OP said I assumed the cutting of the metal strap was an accident. If not, based on how that edge looked, I would hope he's not planning on continuing to use his knife for that in the future.

I cut banding fairly often. I use my knife for poly banding and snips for metal. It's pretty easy to tell the difference and it really helps to use the right tool for the job. I still find it hard to believe that knife went through steel strapping. I wouldn't even think about trying to use a knife to cut even the thinnest (.015") steel material.

[NoFair]

When cutting straps, especially when there's a chance of metal bands, why not just use some wire cutters? Seems like a better tool for the job and it's not hard to carry a small pair of them in your pocket. Or not... I mean, it has kind of been funny reading all your posts with your newfound knife interest.

Plastic straps are easiest with a knife, metal straps on the other hand....

[SpyderScout]

From what the OP said I assumed the cutting of the metal strap was an accident.

Yes, that was my impression as well hence the ().
Regardless, Im not sure V-Toku2 would be my first choice for plastic straps either ... let alone Zip ties.

I wouldn't even think about trying to use a knife to cut even the thinnest (.015") steel material.

Ditto.
Right tool for the right job and all that
(Except in an emergency of course).

[JD Spydo]

First of all I do all my strap cutting with my Spyderedged blade. I carry two EDCs daily>> one plain edged M390 Military and lately my Spyderedged model has been the old Stainless RESCUE model>> and I've cut through some really rugged stuff that would have destroyed a plain edge but really didn't hurt my ATS-55 Spyderedged blade much at all. That's why I'm a firm believer in having a companion folder to go with your plain edge folder.

I use my plain edged folders for about 60% of all my cutting jobs>> but for really demanding cutting jobs I've been using a Spyderedged blade for quite some time now,. That's why I'm hoping at some point Spyderco will eventually do another double bladed folder like their older Dyad model that has one full Spyderedged blade and one full sized plain edge blade. I do carry my C-44 Dyad on occasion but I don't carry it all the time because many of the cutting jobs I have need a full sized folder.

Bottom line: If you have a job that really demands the use of a knife it only makes sense to have a good back up unit ( BUU) or a companion folder as I usually carry. I've been a firm believer in "back up units" for quite some time now. Why put yourself behind the "8 ball" when you can be prepared for such problems like you experienced.

[tps3443]

I cut plastic straps very often. My knife stays sharp for a longtime too. The metal strap was a accident. I don’t usually get blade damage. I’ve had a very small chip from the factory sharpening, and then accidentally cutting the metal strap.

If you look at the before, and after. You’ll see all is well with my PM2 Blurple, and it is back to performing and looking like new. I’ve been using it this morning since 7AM going through a whole pile of zip ties.

And Ive decided on getting a Military too by the way. Probably the same steel as I’ve got. I’ve learned it very well. And I really like it.

[Rutger]

And Ive decided on getting a Military too by the way. Probably the same steel as I’ve got. I’ve learned it very well. And I really like it.

I'd wait for the REX 45 millie sprint then. Much tougher steel than S110V. Or the upcoming M4 from BHQ. Though REX45 edge held up better in tests. The S90V Titanium/Carbon Fiber RIL from Knifeworks is also amazing and very similar to S110V if you rather have that.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Good as new! I use my knives heavily guys. She is back to looking good again! Fixed the edge, it is hair shaving sharp, and chip free. It’s ready for tomorrow. I wouldn’t know where to start without my wicked edge lol. I’m spoiled.

I revbeveled the knife at 14.75 degrees each side with 200 grit diamonds. Did a couple light strokes with 600 grit. Then stropped it about 50 times at 13.75 degrees. It is a Super sharpie!

Looks like a factory edge now, how did you strop it? Wicked edge Paddles? What grit? Looks nice good job with the repair.

[tps3443]

Good as new! I use my knives heavily guys. She is back to looking good again! Fixed the edge, it is hair shaving sharp, and chip free. It’s ready for tomorrow. I wouldn’t know where to start without my wicked edge lol. I’m spoiled.

I revbeveled the knife at 14.75 degrees each side with 200 grit diamonds. Did a couple light strokes with 600 grit. Then stropped it about 50 times at 13.75 degrees. It is a Super sharpie!

Looks like a factory edge now, how did you strop it? Wicked edge Paddles? What grit? Looks nice good job with the repair.

I strop using wicked edge paddles. They are 10/14 Leather strops, with the WE diamond compound. I strop at 1 degree less than the sharpening angle. And if I do a micro bevel. I’ll strop 1 degree less than the microbevel too.

The WE provided factory looking edges, small learning curve! Thank you

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

Hmm have to look I am not sure if I got the Balsa wood or the leather it's been a few years. Which paste did you use? The reason I ask is because I usually go all the way to mirror but prefer the factory edge like you have achieved.