best steel?

[steelcity16]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.
Roland.

It really bugs me when people don't take the time to actually spell it out correctly...it's CPM CRU-WEAR®

:rolleyes:

:p

I support this. :D

Back on subject... While geometry and blade shape usually matter more than steel, that's not exactly what the thread is about. But after breaking my 2nd tip in s110v on a military/pm2, I certainly look for tougher steels on models with acute tips. I think having a strong tip is important in wood CARVING, for detail, but not always with woodworking. Apex stability would be my #1 concern. I think the new para 3 in 4v would be another great choice. So would a Shaman in...

CPM CRU-WEAR®

When is that coming out again? :D

+1 CPM-CRUWEAR has probably the best combo of toughness, wear resistance, and corrosion resistance in my experience. It is pretty corrosion resistant. Much more so than M4 and 52100. I don't have enough experience with the Spyderco Rex45 or 4V to tell how corrosion resistant those will be just yet CPM-CRUWEAR is plenty tough and wear resistant as well. Come over to the dark side. CPM-CRUWEAR NATION!!

[tps3443]

8cr13Mov

Lol nah.


Just depends on your preference I’d say-
Anything beyond the basics are fine but handle ergos and blade size and shape are probably more relevant, just my 2c

Hey, 8cr13mov gets it done for sure. I’m new to the knife scene. And I’ve found it holds an edge well. And it’s easy to sharpen.

[ladybug93]

thanks for all the suggestions. i guess i’m waiting for a shaman in cru-wear with burlap micarta scales? hahaha

[legOFwhat?]

Another vote here for a mule. Used my PD#1 (close to Crew-ware) :P today to whittle down a couple of rake handles and after 30 min of wood punishment there was no visible signs of being bothered at all. Took off a few dozen leg hairs just to make sure.

[steelcity16]

thanks for all the suggestions. i guess i’m waiting for a shaman in cru-wear with burlap micarta scales? hahaha

A Native LW, Manix LW, and G10 Native in CPM-CRUWEAR needs to happen in 2019 as well!

[TomAiello]

what is the best steel of all the spyderco line-up for work and outdoor (carving) use? something that is tough and easy to touch up in the field, but doesn’t wear so fast that you have to stop in the middle of what you’re doing to sharpen again. corrosion resistance would be nice, but it’s not as much of a priority as the rest.

Maxamet. For sure. If corrosion resistance is less important, go with Maxamet 10 times out of 10.

[vivi]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

[Bloke]

what is the best steel of all the spyderco line-up for work and outdoor (carving) use? something that is tough and easy to touch up in the field, but doesn’t wear so fast that you have to stop in the middle of what you’re doing to sharpen again. corrosion resistance would be nice, but it’s not as much of a priority as the rest.

thanks for your input.

I think specifically to a Wood Knife edge geometry is key. Nothing I’ve ever encountered cuts wood like a true zero ground Scandinavian plus wood working blades seem to all be sharpened to a zero grind and I’ve found in wood carving/whittling primary and micro bevels are not your friend irrespective of how sharp your blade is.

I don’t have any of the carbon steels bar Maxamet most recommended here but I’d hazard a guess that ideally the best would be the one with best edge stability?

[TomAiello]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

I honestly don't know what the fuss is about sharpening maxamet. I haven't found it any more difficult to deal with than almost any of the other steels I regularly use. The only one I'd say is hands down easier to sharpen than the others is VG-10. I don't find Maxamet noticeably worse to sharpen than s110v, s90v or m390/20cv/204p.

[Deadboxhero]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

Depends more on the sharpener then the steel. :D

[Slash]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

Depends more on the sharpener then the steel. :D

there any small diamond stones that are worth carrying and using for field sharpening?

[Bloke]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

Depends more on the sharpener then the steel. :D

there any small diamond stones that are worth carrying and using for field sharpening?

In the case of of a true Wood Knife I would respectfully disagree on sharpness alone.

From personal experience a true zero ground Scandinavian only sharp enough to say cut printer paper would most likely cut wood “better” with less effort than a conventional 40deg MB - 30deg PB - FFG which was hair whittling sharp irrespective of steel flavour. :)

[Slash]

Would maxamet be the beat choice for a steel that's easy to field sharpen?

Depends more on the sharpener then the steel. :D

there any small diamond stones that are worth carrying and using for field sharpening?

In the case of of a true Wood Knife I would respectfully disagree on sharpness alone.

From personal experience a true zero ground Scandinavian only sharp enough to say cut printer paper would most likely cut wood “better” with less effort than a conventional 40deg MB - 30deg PB - FFG which was hair whittling sharp irrespective of steel flavour. :)

Not sure why you replied to diamond field stones.

I have an really old moro and that thing cuts me sometimes just looking at it. Made a walking stick with it once. Just a shame that small wooden handle was on it. Because that swedish laminated steel is pretty good.

[blues]

Frosts and K J Eriksson (now Morakniv) produced some fantastic, inexpensive knives...both laminated and standard stock removal.

I've owned a bunch for years and use them for anything from wood carving / whittling to general duty in the field or workshop.

[ferider]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.
Roland.

It really bugs me when people don't take the time to actually spell it out correctly...it's CPM CRU-WEAR®

:rolleyes:

:p

You guys are funny :) At the conscious risk of more jokes: knives in both Cru-Wear and CPM Cru-Wear exist, and the difference is significant. CPM Cru-Wear performs close to CPM 3V. Ingot Cru-Wear does not. M4 and CPM Rex M4 are similarly different. Very confusing when I started this silly hobby, and confusing for the OP as well, I assume.



Enuff said.

Back on subject, here are two other Spydercos great for Outdoor use and carving.



Cheers,

Roland.

[ladybug93]

Frosts and K J Eriksson (now Morakniv) produced some fantastic, inexpensive knives...both laminated and standard stock removal.

I've owned a bunch for years and use them for anything from wood carving / whittling to general duty in the field or workshop.

i use moras and love them. i always carry one (or three, since they’re so light) into the wilds. my request for a blade that would be good for carving was more of an example of use. i want a blade tough enough to not chip while carving (for example) and strong enough not to dull too fast while doing it. basically, it would be an every day knife that is capable of being pushed in a survival situation (not that is care about a few chips in a survival situation).

[blues]

Frosts and K J Eriksson (now Morakniv) produced some fantastic, inexpensive knives...both laminated and standard stock removal.

I've owned a bunch for years and use them for anything from wood carving / whittling to general duty in the field or workshop.

i use moras and love them. i always carry one (or three, since they’re so light) into the wilds. my request for a blade that would be good for carving was more of an example of use. i want a blade tough enough to not chip while carving (for example) and strong enough not to dull too fast while doing it. basically, it would be an every day knife that is capable of being pushed in a survival situation (not that is care about a few chips in a survival situation).

I think that you'd be well served by several of the options mentioned so far: CPM Cru-Wear, CPM M4, 52100, REX 45 all being reasonably tough with the Cru-Wear being the toughest and having the best anti-corrosion properties of the bunch; and M4 the best edge holding. The 52100 would be the easiest to sharpen in the field.

If you don't mind DLC blades, that would, in my view, make the M4 or 52100 an even more attractive option for field use. But they're all good blades and tougher than stainless options by and large.

[ladybug93]

thanks. i’ll be on the lookout for a style i like in one of these steels.

[blues]

thanks. i’ll be on the lookout for a style i like in one of these steels.

:cool:

[husq2100]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.
Roland.

It really bugs me when people don't take the time to actually spell it out correctly...it's CPM CRU-WEAR®

:rolleyes:

:p

You guys are funny :) At the conscious risk of more jokes: knives in both Cru-Wear and CPM Cru-Wear exist, and the difference is significant. CPM Cru-Wear performs close to CPM 3V. Ingot Cru-Wear does not. M4 and CPM Rex M4 are similarly different. Very confusing when I started this silly hobby, and confusing for the OP as well, I assume.



Enuff said.

Back on subject, here are two other Spydercos great for Outdoor use and carving.



Cheers,

Roland.

Wait, what??

Are there actually 2 different Cru-Wear steel? or is that just an assumption due to the use of CPM before Cru-Wear sometimes and sometimes not?

BTW I dont think that graph pic proves much...