Spyderco Forums

Posted: **Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:19 pm**

Yep I'm still loocking for a "like" button.... ;-)

Posted: **Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:52 pm**

legOFwhat? wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:51 am
@LC are you not adding hydrogen peroxide to the acid or rather adding the acid to the peroxide? (always add acid!)

No I’m dipping it in 100% acid. What’s the benefit of the way you’re describing?

Posted: **Wed Oct 10, 2018 1:42 pm**

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:52 pm

legOFwhat? wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:51 am
@LC are you not adding hydrogen peroxide to the acid or rather adding the acid to the peroxide? (always add acid!)

No I’m dipping it in 100% acid. What’s the benefit of the way you’re describing?

I usually follow a similar method to this:https://www.instructables.com/id/AcidBr ... g-A-Knife/. Using muriatic acid along with the HP makes cupric chloride and can be reused. We've used it to etch circuit boards. Heard it's safer than ferric but don't quote me on that. I'm in no way an expert on this but it's worked pretty well for me.

Posted: **Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm**

Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

Posted: **Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:15 pm**

I suspect red loctite was used. Blade is a bit on the tight side, which is good if it loosens up on it's own. But, tried applying moderately high pressure and screw almost welded on. Doesn't bother me too much. Least I know screw won't loosen up naturally and cause slop. Figure friction will help polish up the parts for me. Wish I didn't already treat the blade and PIVOT with weaponshield...
Maybe someone that did some mods can confirm red loctite and best method for disassembly.
None clip side is the one that moves?
Thanks

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:15 am**

Some bad news. Something went wrong while attempting to add serrations and Wiley said they’re contacting Spyderco for a blade replacement :eek: :mad:

I’m in a glass cage of emotion. Not looking good...

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:39 am**

tvenuto wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:15 am
Some bad news. Something went wrong while attempting to add serrations and Wiley said they’re contacting Spyderco for a blade replacement :eek: :mad: I’m in a glass cage of emotion. Not looking good...

Are blade replacements typically available for sprint/exclusive models like this? That's certainly not the news you wanna hear.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 10:13 am**

No they are not. I’m hoping they have a special relationship with Spyderco and that Spyderco is willing to help them out to avoid an awkward situation. Mainly, this knife is not replaceable for what I paid for it. Fingers crossed.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:01 am**

Oh no! I had a factory second Para2 serrated so my risk was really low. I hope they can work it out for you. Fingers crossed!

If all else fails maybe as a Spyderco dealer they have one of the other limited Yojimbos in stock that they could offer you in exchange.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:18 am**

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....

Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:56 pm**

abbazaba wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:18 am

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....
Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.

I listed ally went and bought a Tupperware container and a bag of smooth multi sized rocks from Canadian tire (think Home Depot). I put the rocks in the container, poured some olive oil in and threw in the blade. I then manually shook it with my arms for 5-10 minutes or so until I was satisfied with the result.

How’s that harbour freight tumbler working out for you? I think I’ll have to invest in one soon.

Posted: **Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:21 pm**

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:56 pm

abbazaba wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:18 am

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process....
Thanks for sharing! Do you mind adding some details on your "container with rocks"? My attempts at stone washing have been satisfactory, but when I did my first acid wash I didn't get nearly as much of a "distressed" look as you did. After thinking I broke my dryer, I switched to a rock tumbler with the Harbor Freight Medium Ceramic Abrasive Polishing Tumbler Media.

I listed ally went and bought a Tupperware container and a bag of smooth multi sized rocks from Canadian tire (think Home Depot). I put the rocks in the container, poured some olive oil in and threw in the blade. I then manually shook it with my arms for 5-10 minutes or so until I was satisfied with the result.

How’s that harbour freight tumbler working out for you? I think I’ll have to invest in one soon.

I did a few Kershaws in a similar setup, both by hand and using the laundry dryer. One day I decided to invest in the rotary tumbler and ceramic media hoping to get a "better" look, but I don't think it changed much. After reading a bit, I think a vibration tumbler might give me better results but I've never used one.

The first time I ever forced a patina was because the blade arrived with a terrible patina that really bothered me, so I took it all the way to black with ferric chloride. I realize that this is not the best starting point, and definitely contributed the visible blotches after tumbling. The knife had a more "distressed" look at an earlier stage of tumbling (but never like yours), and I kept throwing it back in the tumbler seeing what would happen. I think I ultimately let it go past where I liked it best and it lost most of the effect and patina. Regardless, its pretty sweet as my dedicated mail opener :) I'll give it another try some day.

For the record, I didn't mask off anything, but did polish the pivot/lockface with 1500b after the process (and a new edge of course). ironically, it is now one of the smoothest and most solid PM2s that I have. I also put a piece of leather covered in stropping compound in the chuck of my drill and polished the inside of the Spydiehole for fun. All the hardware but the pivot got the acid bath too, and it's interesting that the lock side liner and stop pin appear to be a different type of metal than the screws and other liner.

Posted: **Sat Oct 13, 2018 2:14 am**

Hello,

mine has arrived this morning IN France:

It will be my Jade Warrior !
https://nemoknivesreview.com/2018/10/13 ... e-warrior/

Posted: **Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:09 am**

And now here is my adventure in swapping the blades !!

https://nemoknivesreview.com/2018/10/15 ... and-forth/

Posted: **Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:46 pm**

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

I tried to acid etch an m4 blade and followed the exact same protocol you outlined here. However, when I went to dip a second time in the ferric chloride to get it a little darker, the etch was horribly uneven. I ended up sanding down everything with 0000 steel wool which removed the satin finish and made the blade more dull. Then, I tried to start over. The results were even worse... very blotchy. So, I took the steel wool and rubbed some of the darky blotchiness away and thought that maybe M4 is not appropriate for ferric chloride - but, your results prove me wrong. I ended up keeping it this way after some sanding away the dark spots with steel wool.

Side note, I etched the steel liners and that worked no problem - perfectly even. Do you know what I might have done wrong??

Posted: **Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:50 am**

Dear werm000:

Welcome to the Spyderco Forum.

Stay safe,

Mike

Posted: **Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:56 am**

werm000 wrote: ↑
Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:46 pm

Liquid Cobra wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:51 pm
Thanks. Lots of good info in there. My setup is pretty basic but I did leave out some things I’m doing during the process.

Acetone is used to clean the blade etc, this removes oils and helps with an even etch.

I use gloves the whole time.

I use nail polish to protect the pivot etc, then clear acetone to remove the nail polish. Don’t use coloured acetone that your wife might have as this can cause the nail polish to leave a color residue on your blade. Ask me how I know this.

I dip the blade in pure ferric chloride using a coat hanger then I dip the blade in water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize the acid. I then wipe the blade down with paper towel, this removes black smudge from the etch. I then rinse with water, dry the blade then dip again. I do this over and over until I’m satisfied with the darkness I’ve achieved.

If I etch the screws I only do the top of them by dipping them in very shallow acid so the threads don’t touch and get ruined.

I leave the nail polish on the blade when I throw it into a container with rocks for the stone wash. This protects the pivot from taking a beating as well.

On the yojimbo I didn’t want to resharpen the main bevel so I marked the upper edge of the bevel with tape, then added nail polish to the bevel and removed the tape. This ensured that the bevel didn’t get etched and would not require a sharpen. This extra step was more for my own sake, to see if it would work and it did. After the knife was reassembled all I had to do was touch up the edge with the sharpmaker instead of busting out my edge pro. Here is a pic of the nail polish and how straight I got it using painters tape.

I tried to acid etch an m4 blade and followed the exact same protocol you outlined here. However, when I went to dip a second time in the ferric chloride to get it a little darker, the etch was horribly uneven. I ended up sanding down everything with 0000 steel wool which removed the satin finish and made the blade more dull. Then, I tried to start over. The results were even worse... very blotchy. So, I took the steel wool and rubbed some of the darky blotchiness away and thought that maybe M4 is not appropriate for ferric chloride - but, your results prove me wrong. I ended up keeping it this way after some sanding away the dark spots with steel wool.

Side note, I etched the steel liners and that worked no problem - perfectly even. Do you know what I might have done wrong??

beuegBO.jpg

did you touch the blade with your fingers? the unevenness could be from oils in your skin on the blade that prevented the acid from reaching everything evenly.

Posted: **Tue Jan 18, 2022 10:50 am**

Did you wear gloves?

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