Any tips for removing Para 3 scales/hardware?

[RickC27]

I'm thinking if I have time after work today, I'm going to swap the burnt orange scales from my Rex45 Para 3 to my BHQ/DLC M4. I've got a thing for the orange/black combo...

I haven't taken apart any of my Para 3's yet. I was just wondering if any of you that have, could give me any pointers or tips with any issues I may run into when doing this?

I'm thinking I'm going to try some RIT dye (red) for the BHQ natural scales...any pointers on RIT dying are also welcome and appreciated!

[legOFwhat?]

I'm curios about this as well. Although my interest is only for maintenance (52100 and m4) I'd like all the info possible especially the pin/rivet area.

BTW sweet evo!
<----wrx owner

[ZeroRange]

Gorgeous Evo! I drive a brother from another mother: STI.

The lanyard tube sucks and I damaged it and a scale taking apart my Jade. Put it in the freezer for a few hours to make it easier. Everything else is a breeze. Getting it back in is also a nightmare. I ended up putting it on the table and pounding the scale in with my palm.

[holeshot]

I've replaced the scales on two of my Para3s and it is much easier then a PM2. Unlike the Para2 the lanyard tube is not peened to the liner and scales. Once you have all of the screws out just leave the tube attached to the liners and remove the OEM scales and then simply snap the new scales on to both sides of the liner. I put the pivot screws in and then the rest.
Just take your time. Good luck! :)

[anycal]

Lanyard tube - you should be able to remove one side without any issue, gently prying them apart, or even pulling them apart. Hold both sides close to the tube and wiggle them apart.

Once you have one side off, place the other side lanyard tube down between an opening (like partially opened vise). Then use a socket (my Craftsman 4mm fits perfect) and hammer to tap out the tube. Make sure everything is squared off, and the tube should come out easy. If you don't have a socket, you can use a screw or a nail with the right sized head, and tap it out.

For future ease of removal you can sand down the tube ends. Place the tube into a drill chuck, and hold the other side with 400 grit sandpaper. Spin it. Repeat on the other side. Once sanded down, the tube will be a lot easier to reinstall and remove.

Over the years, I have been doing this to my many PM2s and couple of Para 3s. No damage or any issues at all.

[Sharp Guy]

Only issue I had was pulling the lanyard tube out of one of the scales. I tried using a few things to drive it out but nothing fit quite right. I still plan on making a mandrel next time I visit my brother in CO and have access to his lathe. I ended up using a slip-joint pliers to remove. I wrapped the tube with electrical tape but it still got a little nicked up. No biggie, I chucked the tube up in a drill and cleaned it with a file and sandpaper. Removed the flared ends at the same time to make it easier to put back together. It was a little frustrating but everything ended up fine. Once reassembled you can't even tell the tube was worked over.

[Sharp Guy]

Then use a socket (my Craftsman 4mm fits perfect) and hammer to tap out the tube. Make sure everything is squared off, and the tube should come out easy.

I have a couple Craftsman socket sets (metric, SAE, deep wells, etc) and I thought I tried everything I had but nothing fit quite right. I'll have to remember to try a 4mm next time.

[anycal]

Then use a socket (my Craftsman 4mm fits perfect) and hammer to tap out the tube. Make sure everything is squared off, and the tube should come out easy.

I have a couple Craftsman socket sets (metric, SAE, deep wells, etc) and I thought I tried everything I had but nothing fit quite right. I'll have to remember to try a 4mm next time.

I am sure even the same brand have a different sized diameter depending on when they were made. I bought my set back in 1990. Things have probably changed some. Not even sure if they are still US made.

[RickC27]

Thanks for the comments on the car fella's! That was my baby...had about $7,000 worth of mods in the car. Dyno tuned at 388hp/402ft/lb of torque... not too shabby for a 2.0L AWD car! But, reluctantly...I had to sell her last year. It was paid off, so I've been leasing my truck and used some of the money from selling the car to put as a down payment on our camper. Had to make the family fun decision over my own personal satisfaction, though I do love camping so I can't complain. But sometimes I definitely miss that feeling of getting thrown back in my seat!

Appreciate the tips for taking this knife apart. I'll certainly give them a try as I try to remain as patient as possible! The lanyard tube worries me a bit, but I'm confident your inputs will help. Was hoping everything would just unscrew and pop off no problem, that's what I get for wishful thinking haha.

[RickC27]

It's probably best to pull one side/scale off at a time correct? Or won't it work that way?

[Sharp Guy]

Then use a socket (my Craftsman 4mm fits perfect) and hammer to tap out the tube. Make sure everything is squared off, and the tube should come out easy.

I have a couple Craftsman socket sets (metric, SAE, deep wells, etc) and I thought I tried everything I had but nothing fit quite right. I'll have to remember to try a 4mm next time.

I am sure even the same brand have a different sized diameter depending on when they were made. I bought my set back in 1990. Things have probably changed some. Not even sure if they are still US made.

Mine were all bought around 1990 too. My ex's grandfather worked in the tool department at Sears and bought me all kinds of nice tools. I think you already suggested the socket thing to me back when I was taking apart my Cruwear P3 to the scales. I'll check it out again later to see if anything fits. I'm still set on making a simple mandrel with a shoulder on it to push out the tube with my arbor press.

[legOFwhat?]

Since this thread is about modifications and it looks like there are a couple of guys in here with awd turbo 4's is there a mod list to that sweet evo?

[RickC27]

Since this thread is about modifications and it looks like there are a couple of guys in here with awd turbo 4's is there a mod list to that sweet evo?

This is off the top of my head...

Forced Performance Green turbo upgrade
Ultimate Racing intercooler with upper and lower piping
AMS cold air intake
Grimspeed boost controller (typically ran around 24psi tapering off, though this turbo could certainly handle more, it was a daily driver)
Ultimate Racing 3" turbo back dual exhaust exit
H&R lowering springs
Tenzo Racing wheels (18 x 9.5)
Continental DW tires (275/35/18)
Cobb Accessport...stored a few different maps that I would flash over from time to time, depending on what kind of driving I'd be doing after it was dyno tuned at STM in Rochester, NY.
Scorpion front lip diffuser to help set it apart from the rest from the front view.

The Accessport could register all sorts of things, I was testing my 0-60 time one day and the best I hit was 4.4 seconds...so not bad at all for a 4 banger. Had to tinker a lot with the boost because as you know, sometimes the lag can be a female dog!

[legOFwhat?]

I'm still on the factory top mount and turbo (21psi) so lag isn't that bad. Can't imagine what a front mount would do though. I'm at about the limits of the factory clutch and since just replacing it after only 60k I don't (not often anyway) launch much.

[RickC27]

I'm still on the factory top mount and turbo (21psi) so lag isn't that bad. Can't imagine what a front mount would do though. I'm at about the limits of the factory clutch and since just replacing it after only 60k I don't (not often anyway) launch much.

Don't get the car mod bug...it's much more pricey than the knife bug!!! I tried to play it safe with the car and not go too overboard, because I had the intentions of keeping it for a long time, especially since they were going to be discontinuing the model in years to come. But, family life comes first. Though anytime I see one or a WRX/STI that's modded I'll chat it up with the driver or compliment them. Their usually surprised I know what I'm talking about, coming from a guy in a truck.

[legOFwhat?]

I'm still on the factory top mount and turbo (21psi) so lag isn't that bad. Can't imagine what a front mount would do though. I'm at about the limits of the factory clutch and since just replacing it after only 60k I don't (not often anyway) launch much.

Don't get the car mod bug...it's much more pricey than the knife bug!!! I tried to play it safe with the car and not go too overboard, because I had the intentions of keeping it for a long time, especially since they were going to be discontinuing the model in years to come. But, family life comes first. Though anytime I see one or a WRX/STI that's modded I'll chat it up with the driver or compliment them. Their usually surprised I know what I'm talking about, coming from a guy in a truck.

Yeah I've left the extreme modding years ago that's kind of what made me buy the wrx. I wanted something that does everything I need, drive it everyday and adding some cheap (relatively) bolt-ons for the grin factor. I came from modding Honda's and was tired of dropping thousands to add only a few ponies. Couple hundo's on the subi at I'm around 300whp and 340(ish)wtq. lol I remember the day I got 200whp on the CTR. Nearly lost my mind! Then I counted the cost... :mad: I did learn so much though it was worth every penny.