Spyderco Forums

I have noticed some rust spotting around the thumbhole of my Gayle Bradley. I have removed rust from other knives in the past with oil and a scotchbrite pad, but it has always left small scratches on the blade. Is there a way to remove the rust without marking the beautiful CPM-M4 blade?

I use a buffing wheel and some black or green compound depending on the level of rust. I got my buffing wheel at Harbor Freight on the cheap and it does the job just fine.

Naval Jelly?

Mike9x19 wrote:I use a buffing wheel and some black or green compound depending on the level of rust. I got my buffing wheel at Harbor Freight on the cheap and it does the job just fine.

Thanks, do you think I could substitute green compound with flitz?

I've successfully used something called Super Eraser. I believe I purchased it from Baryonyx Knife Company. It is a small rubber like, rectangular, mildly abrasive block. The package states that it leaves a fine satin finish. I've only used it on very light rust and the blades already had a satin, tumbled, or brushed-like finish so no additional marks were left. I have also used Simichrome and Flitz where appropriate. Mike

The Deacon wrote:Naval Jelly?

Did that to my GB last yr. turns the blade darker (as in acid washing). Didn't like the look so have been sanding it off

Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?

I find Flitz slow but gentle.

mattman wrote:Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?

Ill try that, thanks

Try Toothpaste. A wise man on these forums issued that idea.

mattman wrote:Isn't this where many have had success polishing with toothpaste?

Yes. I am one. It works pretty **** good.

toothpaste was my first thought as well

Strong-Dog wrote:I have removed rust from other knives in the past with oil and a scotchbrite pad, but it has always left small scratches on the blade. Is there a way to remove the rust without marking the beautiful CPM-M4 blade?

Scotchbrite is quite agressive for steel, particulary when it is new, hence it is used to make brushed steel finish.

It is better to replace it with steel wool that is softer than hardened steel, then generally it will not leave scratches. I'm using extra fine grade (#00000) all the time to restore old straight razors (softer steels than M4) or to clean enamel surfaces and never noticed scratches.
Do a test before on a small area.

Strong-Dog wrote:Thanks, do you think I could substitute green compound with flitz?

I have never tried it, but I don't see why not. The nice thing about having the polishing wheel is that you can polish other blades after you are done fixing this one.n

A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works well for me.

I used toothpaste and a microfiber rag, and it worked brilliantly. Thanks for the idea guys

Baking soda and a wet toothbrush,works perfectly.

WorkingEdge wrote:Did that to my GB last yr. turns the blade darker (as in acid washing). Didn't like the look so have been sanding it off

It's the phosphoric acid. I have had a lot of bad experiences with Naval Jelly. I wouldn't use it on anything other than cast iron pipe, and then only on the inside.

Strong-Dog wrote:I used toothpaste and a microfiber rag, and it worked brilliantly. Thanks for the idea guys

Glad to hear it worked out! This is a great place to get some advice.