Spyderco Forums

I don't know if it's tough steels are chosen, or steels are chosen that also happen to be tough. I like H1 in plainedge for a EDC folder. It has properties of ease of sharpening, high sharpness easily attained, and high corrosion resistance. It also happens to be quite tough. Why would one want a to...

I prefer low wear resistance steels, I like edge angles less than 15 dps. I don't like combo edges, though their common appearance indicates I might be in the minority of knife buyers. I don't think sharpening for its own sake is fun anymore. I don't have a strong opinion on freehand vs. guided shar...

Did some research on these knives and ultra high carbon steels in general. The knives overall get positive reviews and the UHC steels can do some pretty interesting stuff: superplasticity (ductility over 600%), extremely high compressive strength (680,000 psi) with respectable ductility (25%), extr...

I like a tanto for daily carry. They're fairly useful for non-game processing utility work. I find bead blasted blades appealing, but they tend to rust easier than stone washed or polished blades.

I have a Large Voyager I carry when not at work, and sometimes when at work. Most sites/factories won't let the larger blade in the gate. I alternate between a Manix LW in S110V and a Large Voyager in CTS BD1. No difference in edge holding, and both have their positives and negatives. The Voyager is...

Sharpmaker

https://youtu.be/Zz98gIgbxIo

Guide blocks and bench stones.

https://youtu.be/Zz98gIgbxIo

Ankerson wrote: ↑

Thu May 31, 2018 12:16 pm

Not enough carbon to create any Chromium Carbides.

I'm still trying to figure out where this got started. Out persists in spite of any evidence tho the contrary. The AEB-L, 12C27, 13C26 family of steels are still one of my favorites. I'd be on an AEB-L mule like white on rice in a snowstorm.

I see why this was posted during a 3 day weekend.

Pelagic wrote: ↑

Sat May 19, 2018 6:10 pm

me2 wrote: ↑

Sat May 19, 2018 2:13 pm

The results off both videos mirror my own when testing 8Cr13MoV vs S30V and BD1 vs S110V.

What kind of test did you use where BD1 hung with s110v?

Phil, thanks for your input.

www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php? ... 8&start=20

The results off both videos mirror my own when testing 8Cr13MoV vs S30V and BD1 vs S110V.

I can't speak for the 44 magnums, but the Ruger GP100 I had was a very nice gun to shoot. It was a 6" barrel, so I can't say how a 4" would feel. It was my first centerfire handgun and I had no issues with it recoil wise.

I have a related question about toughness in steel. Are some forms of stainless steel tougher in one section than another, like certain forms of glass, or, are the properties across the board? Isotropic vs anisotropic are the technical terms. Isotropic means the properties are the same in all direc...

VC type carbides in powder steels range from 3 to 6 microns mostly. My finest lapping films are 0.3 microns averaged abrasive size. Very sharp edges are in the 0.1 micron range of width.

I recently started carrying a stainless handle Endura, fly serrated. I know it's older, but wondered how old. It had the older tip style without the drop, just straight from the opening hole hump. Also, the clip is right hand only, but can be tip up or down. Finally, the steel is AUS 6.

I went with both. I used a Salt 1 as a razor for about a week. Just left it hanging on the shower caddy with no resharpening needed, but l only shave every other day. For work, I used a Norton coarse/fine combo stone and a relatively low angle of 12 dps with a micro bevel at 15 dps.

Whoops, missed 154CM. I haven't used it in large fixed blades, and I'd probably avoid it for rough use knives with blades over 5". Folders or hunting knives not for bone work, no problem.

How tough are the AUS series of stainless steel made in Japan? Also, what about 154 CM? Depends mostly on the carbon content. The lower ones like AUS 6 and AUS 8 should be fairly tough, comparable to AEB-L and 420HC. Lets put it this way, I wouldn't turn away an AUS 6 machete or 7" field knife...

H1, AEB-L, 12C27, 13C26, 420HC, etc.

I've recently been using a DMT Aligner to sharpen some of my knives. However, fitting it to my Spydercos had been tricky. Anyone use this and have tips for setting the clamp on the blade? Specifically I'm sharpening a Manix LW, as OLD Delica, and a Byrd slip joint.

Why no oils?