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Thread: Caly 3.5 superblue bladeplay

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    Caly 3.5 superblue bladeplay

    I recently got a caly 3.5 in sb and though I love the knife, it seems to have an excessive amount of vertical blade play. My only other lockbacks are the salts and they all have a tiny amount of vertical play, but this caly has much more. I just wanted to check with you guys and see if this is a normal or "acceptable" amount of play. If it is normal for this knife then I have no problem living with it, it just seems pretty loose and I wanted to make sure it's within normal tolerances. Rather than trying to describe how much play I did my best to capture it on video. If you've got headphones or decent speakers you can hear it clicking.

    P.S. Please excuse the right hand fingernails...Classical guitar.

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    Mine's got about the same amount of play as yours. So far it hasn't affected use at all, although I know I don't use my knives near as hard as you do, based on the pictures of yours you post

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    Never had one of those but it seems I remember reading somewhere that some blade play was fairly common with that particular sprint run..

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User gbelleh's Avatar
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    I just checked mine, and it moves just a little, and will make the clicking noise if you move it up and down too. Maybe a little less movement than yours. But, I've actually never noticed it in use. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Invective View Post
    Mine's got about the same amount of play as yours. So far it hasn't affected use at all, although I know I don't use my knives near as hard as you do, based on the pictures of yours you post
    Hehe. This thing gets treated like a baby. Mostly this is my dress knife/string cutter/impress my friends with hanging hair test knife. . In all likelihood it will never see any hard use. My mind is kind of weird...if I know they all are like this then I'm fine, but if I feel like they are all perfect but I got the only wobbly one then I suffer.

    And fwiw, aside from the bit of vertical play, mine is otherwise perfect. No side to side play, blade is straight and perfectly centered, and the knife opens and closes buttery smooth.
    Last edited by Surfingringo; 04-20-2014 at 06:54 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    Hehe. This thing gets treated like a baby. Mostly this is my dress knife/string cutter/impress my friends with hanging hair test knife. . In all likelihood it will never see any hard use. My mind is kind of weird...if I know they all are like this then I'm fine, but if I feel like they are all perfect but I got the only wobbly one then I suffer.

    And fwiw, aside from the bit of vertical play, mine is otherwise perfect. No side to side play, blade is straight and perfectly centered, and the knife opens and closes buttery smooth.
    If that's the case I wouldn't worry about it. Pretty much all my lockbacks have some amount of up and down play, Caly 3.5 SB, Native 5, Jester, both Ladybugs. It's something that comes with lockbacks. None of them have any hint of closing unintentionally though so I use without worry

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User SolidState's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    And fwiw, aside from the bit of vertical play, mine is otherwise perfect. No side to side play, blade is straight and perfectly centered, and the knife opens and closes buttery smooth.
    It reads like you got the luck of the draw. I've seen a few, and all had warping from the heat treat/grinding. If yours is straight and centered, you can fix the rest.

    You can peen the tip of the lock bar a bit to tighten it up, or you can pinch it a bit in a vice to tighten it up so it doesn't rock as much.
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    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Lance, I checked my SB 3 and 3.5. The Caly 3 has seen much more use and stresses. It does move and click in a vertical direction though it doesn't have the movement yours does. I say for what you are going to use it for, it will likely outlast you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolidState View Post
    It reads like you got the luck of the draw. I've seen a few, and all had warping from the heat treat/grinding. If yours is straight and centered, you can fix the rest.

    You can peen the tip of the lock bar a bit to tighten it up, or you can pinch it a bit in a vice to tighten it up so it doesn't rock as much.
    Could you elaborate a bit on those adjustments? I'm not afraid of doing a little work on my knives ("O just O" would be proud) but I don't quite understand either of your suggestions. Thanks.

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    I have contemplated having the lockbar face carbidized in the past. This would allow the tolerances to be tightened in the contact area, but I have no really experience or actual success to report.
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  11. #11
    Spyderco Forum Registered User SolidState's Avatar
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    Forgive me if this is hard to put in words. I'm terrible at loading pictures, so I'll try to explain what I mean:

    There's a little part at the tip of the lock bar that actually engages the tang of the knife. The lock bar has a rectangular shape that sticks out and grabs the latch on the tang of the knife while simultaneously stopping the part of the back of the blade 90 degrees from where the thumb jimping is. That top face of the lock bar that contacts the flat part of the back of the blade just under the jimping for your thumb is the part of the lock bar I'm talking about. Sometimes knife makers (including the Seki factory) pinch that area to deform the metal and make the lock bar about a half-millimeter longer. They pinch in from the sides, this deforms the metal causing it to lengthen a tiny bit. That shores up lock rock a bit. It is kind of common with midlocks. The same method can be used to add some time to liner locks with late engagement on their locking face as well.

    xceptnl's suggestion would pretty much do the same thing without peening.

    Here's a thread showing how people get rid of play in a liner lock. It is similar to what I'm talking about only with a different type of lock engagement. See how they pinched the metal to elongate it in the dimension that shored up lock engagement?
    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...ner-lock-issue
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  12. #12
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Holland's Avatar
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    I had 2 of the SB 3.5s and sold both due to the vertical play. Seems pretty common in this sprint
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    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    Both of my SB 3.5s look like the lockbar has been peened to tighten up the action from the factory. If I were to repeat the process I'd depress the lock and tap on the leading edge of the lockbar, both sides.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    Could you elaborate a bit on those adjustments? I'm not afraid of doing a little work on my knives ("O just O" would be proud) but I don't quite understand either of your suggestions. Thanks.
    Lance,

    Look for Steve (STR over BF) blogs. He has some peening tips. I think his YT is steve rice.
    Last edited by anagarika; 04-21-2014 at 01:07 AM.

  15. #15
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Brock O Lee's Avatar
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    I read about the blade play on the Caly 3.5 SB, and it seemed at the time that it was more wide spread than usual. I was too late for that run, but got the Caly 3 SB, and it has been rock solid so far.
    Last edited by Brock O Lee; 04-21-2014 at 06:29 AM. Reason: spelling
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolidState View Post
    Forgive me if this is hard to put in words. I'm terrible at loading pictures, so I'll try to explain what I mean:

    There's a little part at the tip of the lock bar that actually engages the tang of the knife. The lock bar has a rectangular shape that sticks out and grabs the latch on the tang of the knife while simultaneously stopping the part of the back of the blade 90 degrees from where the thumb jimping is. That top face of the lock bar that contacts the flat part of the back of the blade just under the jimping for your thumb is the part of the lock bar I'm talking about. Sometimes knife makers (including the Seki factory) pinch that area to deform the metal and make the lock bar about a half-millimeter longer. They pinch in from the sides, this deforms the metal causing it to lengthen a tiny bit. That shores up lock rock a bit. It is kind of common with midlocks. The same method can be used to add some time to liner locks with late engagement on their locking face as well.

    xceptnl's suggestion would pretty much do the same thing without peening.

    Here's a thread showing how people get rid of play in a liner lock. It is similar to what I'm talking about only with a different type of lock engagement. See how they pinched the metal to elongate it in the dimension that shored up lock engagement?
    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...ner-lock-issue
    Thank you for the detailed explanation! That was a difficult thing to explain without pics but I think I got you. How could you even do this on the caly though? It is a pinned construction. Wouldn't your have to remove the lockbar to do this??

  17. #17
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Donut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    Thank you for the detailed explanation! That was a difficult thing to explain without pics but I think I got you. How could you even do this on the caly though? It is a pinned construction. Wouldn't your have to remove the lockbar to do this??
    That's what I was wondering. Maybe you could depress the lock enough to get ahold of it outside the liners on the top of the knife.
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  18. #18
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    my VG10 3.5 has zero play after 2 years of EDC, but I sure have heard about the SB 3.5 having blade play issues from lots of sources

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User JNewell's Avatar
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    I think I recall this being something that SFO was able to fix - might be worth a call (unless someone remembers Sal or Kristi posting that they couldn't fix it). The solution isn't very technically sophisticated but doing it correctly probably benefits a lot from some experience with the work involved.

  20. #20
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    Lance,

    Checked your video. I think peening it might solve the clicking/up-down play. Or shim it, i.e. put a thin foil and super glue it, got to be careful not to glue the lock side.

    Problem is, it's a pinned constrction. Peen the tang maybe?

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