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Thread: Edge Pro Hones for serrated blades?

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User paladin's Avatar
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    Edge Pro Hones for serrated blades?

    Does such an animal exist?

    Lansky's got one...how about Edge-Pro?

    If not a dedicated, tri-angular hone- is there another strategy/optional accessory/remedy?

    Seems to me the EP is a great platform for sharpening SE's...

    Thanks in ad-vance for your ad-vice
    Have Kiwi, will travel...wire Paladin...Hotel Carlton, San Francisco

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    As far as I know there is no stone or anything designed for the EP. I would email Ben Dale (EP inventor) and as him if there is one or for suggestions.

    I bought the DMT aligner clamp and serrated edge rod for serrated edges. It works real well. You have to move the clamp as you sharpen the serrations along the blade. This is ok with me since I don't have any serrated edge folding knives. I have one 10" bread knife and I use the aligner serrated set for it. I think the DMT ROD AND CLAMP ARE ABOUT $20 or so. I bought them seperately. I don't think they come as a set. You don't need the aligner stone holder for serrated edges.

    I have thought about rigging something that would hold a serrated edge rod, trianble stone or something to sharpen serrated edges using the EP. I don't think it would be too hard. Use a normal aluminum bland and make something out of wood or something to hold the rod. Glue the wooden (or whatever) to the blank. I believe something like this would work but haven't gone past a brief thought about it. If you come up with something let us know. The important thing would be to have the rod parrallel with the stone blank. Since the DMT rod and all the serrated rods I've seen are tapered that may change the angle from one end of the rod to the other. Just have to experiment with that.

    Have you seen Ben's demo for using the EP for serrated edges? He sets the edge angle as low as he can by using a shim under the blade spine. By raising the spine you lower the angle being put on the knife. Then he sharpens the back side just like you do with plain edges. You have to make sure the stone hits the entire depth of each serration and that may require a lot of steel to be removed. Don't know if I'd want to do that to a Spydiedge. On a bread knife like I have it works fine. After sharpening the back side you use any stone or rod that will fit inside each serration to remove any burr on the edge. I have done this on my bread knife and it works quite well. But,,, I wouldn't use this technique on any of the serrated folders I've had.

    Personally, I'd get the DMT blade clamp and serrated rod for the aligner system. I don't know if the tip of the rod will fit inside the smaller serrations in Spyderco's though. For knives with only the larger serrations I like this system a lot. The angle is maintained great. I also think DMT has 2 or 3 different grit serrated rods now. When I got my DMT stuff there was only a fine grit serrated rod.

    Hope this helps.

    Jack
    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User paladin's Avatar
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    Thanks Jack...you are my go-to guy on sharpening...

    Seems like the system you suggested will be the best compromise...

    I will begin starting threads with "Hey Jack..." Like the one started with "Hey Cliff Stamp..."

    It's kinda like the Bat signal-- only for sharpening emergencies
    Have Kiwi, will travel...wire Paladin...Hotel Carlton, San Francisco

  4. #4
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paladin View Post
    Thanks Jack...you are my go-to guy on sharpening...

    Seems like the system you suggested will be the best compromise...

    I will begin starting threads with "Hey Jack..." Like the one started with "Hey Cliff Stamp..."

    It's kinda like the Bat signal-- only for sharpening emergencies

    I appreciate the compliment but there are lots of guys here who know as much and more than I do. I got pretty good using the EP. Having a system to control one of the hardest part of sharpening, maintaining a consistent angle, makes it easier. Once you learn the quirks of each system and how to get around them helps a lot also. Now I'm trying to learn more about free hand sharpening. I'm enjoying that. I'm getting the basics down pretty good but have a ways to go I think. Anyway, don't listen only to my suggestions. I learned a lot of what I do know from some of the same people that are still here, still helping. So if I am of any help to others it's because of the help I got. A lot of the help came from knife forums, mainly this one. Forums are a great way to share experience and knowledge. If I can help anyone I'm happy to be "passing forward" the stuff I've learned.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  5. #5
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    CKTG and Jende both sold 1/2" stones for the EP, useful in sharpening recurve blades. They also sold double thickness stones. I'd start by seeing if they sell a double thickness 1/2" stone and use the corner or, if you want to lose some stone, chamfer the edges to make a triangular stone yourself and use this to sharpen serrations. Another (perhaps better/easier) option would be to mount a Sharpmaker ceramic rod with rubber bands or padded pipe clamps to your EP guide rod and use this.
    Click here to zoom: Under the Microscope

    Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly3, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, M390 Para2, Cruwear MT12, Techno, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, Manix2 Ltwt, Salt I, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Forum Native5, Squeak, Manix 83mm, 440V Military, Gayle Bradley, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, Cruwear Military, VG10 Jester, Terzuola SlipIt, XHP Native Ltwt, Domino, CPM154/S90V Para2, SB Stretch, D2 Para, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

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  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    CKTG and Jende both sold 1/2" stones for the EP, useful in sharpening recurve blades. They also sold double thickness stones. I'd start by seeing if they sell a double thickness 1/2" stone and use the corner or, if you want to lose some stone, chamfer the edges to make a triangular stone yourself and use this to sharpen serrations. Another (perhaps better/easier) option would be to mount a Sharpmaker ceramic rod with rubber bands or padded pipe clamps to your EP guide rod and use this.
    This sounds like a doable solution. I got my EP stone rod and a SM rod. You would need a stone blank or a polishing strip blank (better idea). Mount a rod to it. Glue is the best bet I think but that would ruin one side of the rod. I'd say you would want rods just for this use. If you already have a SM and use it you would need new rods for the EP application.

    If the rod were glued to the blank the blank can be mounted in the EP. I think you need to do it using a blank because the rods are longer than 6" which is the distance between the stone holders on the EP rod. If you try this let us know how it goes. There are probably several people who would like to do it also. I may try it out of curiosity using rubber bands. It would give me less than 6" of usable stone but that's ok. That's about all you have anyway. So, rubberbands might be the way to go instead of glue, ruining one side of the SM rod. Also, if you do use glue, use some that will release in boiling water. If you use something too strong and want to take the rod off the blank later the rod may break.

    Jack
    PS
    Just use rubber bands to attach the rod to a stone/blank you already have. The only issue then would be the fact that it would be like using a stone that is VERY thick. But what you would do is match the angle of the existing serrations so knowing exactly what the angle is doesn't matter (except for curiosity).
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 04-19-2014 at 05:29 PM.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User paladin's Avatar
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    Wow...never thought of those ideas...thanks Clip, and thanks again Jack!

    Since I have an Angle Cube this technique should be eminently doable...

    I really like the idea of non-permanent change to my Sharpmaker stone + EP hone incorporating the rubber bands...brilliant
    Have Kiwi, will travel...wire Paladin...Hotel Carlton, San Francisco

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User paladin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    CKTG and Jende both sold 1/2" stones for the EP, useful in sharpening recurve blades. They also sold double thickness stones. I'd start by seeing if they sell a double thickness 1/2" stone and use the corner or, if you want to lose some stone, chamfer the edges to make a triangular stone yourself and use this to sharpen serrations. Another (perhaps better/easier) option would be to mount a Sharpmaker ceramic rod with rubber bands or padded pipe clamps to your EP guide rod and use this.
    this may be the frontrunner so far this year for "Understatement of the Year" LOL
    Have Kiwi, will travel...wire Paladin...Hotel Carlton, San Francisco

  9. #9
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    It's all in the presentation
    Click here to zoom: Under the Microscope

    Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly3, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, M390 Para2, Cruwear MT12, Techno, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, Manix2 Ltwt, Salt I, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Forum Native5, Squeak, Manix 83mm, 440V Military, Gayle Bradley, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, Cruwear Military, VG10 Jester, Terzuola SlipIt, XHP Native Ltwt, Domino, CPM154/S90V Para2, SB Stretch, D2 Para, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

    Chris

  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    I've racked my brain on this one. My latest idea was to find a couple thin aluminum rods that fit the serrations nicely, and then drill some holes into the plastic stone holder pieces on the EP that the rod would be captured in (or even grind the ends to a wedge shape like the stone blanks are). Then wrap the rod with sandpaper. The problem is that sandpaper likes to get cut if you make push cuts, so it doesn't work very well unless you only make edge trailing strokes. Of course the ideal setup would be ceramic rods in the same setup, but I haven't found the right size yet. I've even toyed with the idea of using Sharpmaker triangle rods, but I think they're too long and I have no idea how I'd mount them, though I guess you could glue them to a blank, if you could get them cut down to the right length. I think if you really wanted to make this happen, that would be the ultimate solution, but you'd have to find someone with a masonry saw or something that can cut ceramic to shorten them down.

    As for recurves, I've even used double sided tape and wrapped sandpaper around the EP arm/rod itself, and it works surprisingly well until you get the knife sharp enough to push cut through the paper on edge leading strokes. For now my solution to sharpening serrations is just a simple tapered diamond rod and a cotton wheel with polishing compound on my Dremel to strop the serrations. This will give you a razor edge with very little effort.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

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