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Thread: Manix 2 LW Salt?

  1. #21
    Spyderco Forum Registered User FCM415's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Deacon View Post
    Why? AFAIK, the only parts on the Salt knives that are H-1 are the blades and lockbars. The entire handle on the Mariner Salt was something other than H-1. There are a number of highly corrosion resistant stainless steels out there that are less expensive than H-1, it's just one of a rare few that can hold an edge worth a damn.
    Ahh ok. My point was that there are certain obstacles/steps BEYOND just the slapping of an H1 blade and giving it yellow FRN. AFAIK, the screws, and clips etc. are H1 as well... I may be wrong on that end though. Ok, they can use less expensive corrosion resistant steel on steel parts other than the blade also...But that still serves my point the same. It is unlikely unless there is enough people who speak up for one. Salt models (99% of them) arent even made on the same side of this planet as the Manix LWT. Will they squeeze this in in the highly impacted Goldent facility after a couple of "yay" posts? Thats my point.
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  2. #22
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Strong-Dog's Avatar
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    To the people that really like the salt series, what do you guys do that you want a completely rust proof blade for? Or is it more of a mental security thing? Wouldn't you rather have something like S110V which will still be pretty damn near impossible to rust, but also hold an edge maybe 10 times as well?
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strong-Dog View Post
    To the people that really like the salt series, what do you guys do that you want a completely rust proof blade for? Or is it more of a mental security thing? Wouldn't you rather have something like S110V which will still be pretty damn near impossible to rust, but also hold an edge maybe 10 times as well?
    I can't speak for anyone else but I kayak fish on the ocean on a daily basis. I had a manix 2 LW in bd-1 that I took out for a couple of days last year and it ended up covered in rust spots after just a few hours. (Edit: not trying to exaggerate, as they were tiny spots that I was able to clean off when I got in, but still) So yeah, I could wash, dry, disassemble, clean, and generally baby pretty much any steel and make it last, but it's nice to have a knife that I can just use without doing any of that. H1 is a big deal to me. As far as s110v being "pretty damn near impossible to rust" I have a feeling that a couple of days of my normal routine would provide strong evidence to the contrary.

    Regarding the manix platform...imagine that handle with a serrated hawkbill in it.
    Last edited by Surfingringo; 04-16-2014 at 05:17 PM.

  4. #24
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Strong-Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    I can't speak for anyone else but I kayak fish on the ocean on a daily basis. I had a manix 2 LW in bd-1 that I took out for a couple of days last year and it ended up covered in rust spots after just a few hours. Yeah, I could wash, dry, disassemble, clean, and generally baby pretty much any steel and make it last, but it's nice to have a knife that I can just use without doing any of that. H1 is a big deal to me. As far as s110v being "pretty damn near impossible to rust" I have a feeling that a couple of days of my normal routine would provide strong evidence to the contrary.

    Regarding the manix platform...imagine that handle with a serrated hawkbill in it.
    Huh. Interesting, I figured BD-1 would fair better than that. I always thought that H1 wasn't that big of a jump up from other very stainless steels in that aspect. But then again, I do nothing like what you do with my knives
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  5. #25
    Spyderco Forum Registered User The Deacon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FCM415 View Post
    Ahh ok. My point was that there are certain obstacles/steps BEYOND just the slapping of an H1 blade and giving it yellow FRN. AFAIK, the screws, and clips etc. are H1 as well... I may be wrong on that end though. Ok, they can use less expensive corrosion resistant steel on steel parts other than the blade also...But that still serves my point the same. It is unlikely unless there is enough people who speak up for one. Salt models (99% of them) arent even made on the same side of this planet as the Manix LWT. Will they squeeze this in in the highly impacted Goldent facility after a couple of "yay" posts? Thats my point.
    No argument there, even though a can be made for serrated H-1's superior edge holding even without the full "Salt" treatment. Sal shot down the idea when it was proposed for the regular Manix 2 a couple years back, doubt his interest would be any keener today for the Lightweight.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    I can't speak for anyone else but I kayak fish on the ocean on a daily basis. I had a manix 2 LW in bd-1 that I took out for a couple of days last year and it ended up covered in rust spots after just a few hours. (Edit: not trying to exaggerate, as they were tiny spots that I was able to clean off when I got in, but still) So yeah, I could wash, dry, disassemble, clean, and generally baby pretty much any steel and make it last, but it's nice to have a knife that I can just use without doing any of that. H1 is a big deal to me. As far as s110v being "pretty damn near impossible to rust" I have a feeling that a couple of days of my normal routine would provide strong evidence to the contrary.

    Regarding the manix platform...imagine that handle with a serrated hawkbill in it.
    Well, I haven't used my S110V Mule in ocean saltwater yet but I have used it in some fairly corrosive environments and it has as of yet to develop any rust stains or patina..

    Using any steel directly in ocean saltwater for several hours straight would be very hard on it and might well cause even S110V to start to rust..I've got a S110V Manix2 inbound so maybe I need to go toss it in the ocean for a few hours to see what happens

    Agreed that H1 is more rust resistant than S110V. How much is the question? But I feel very confident that S110V is better by a long shot in every other category, edge retention, toughness etc. over H1.

  7. #27
    Spyderco Forum Registered User BDNX's Avatar
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  8. #28
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Zenith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strong-Dog View Post
    To the people that really like the salt series, what do you guys do that you want a completely rust proof blade for? Or is it more of a mental security thing? Wouldn't you rather have something like S110V which will still be pretty damn near impossible to rust, but also hold an edge maybe 10 times as well?
    Reasons for H-1 above S110V (IMO).

    - Easier to sharpen
    - Less chance of chipping
    - SE model will outperform S110V in edge holding
    - Care free

    Here was some testing done on H-1 rust resistance. I wish the pictures where still available.

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...hlight=Chamber

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...hlight=Chamber
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  9. #29
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Brock O Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strong-Dog View Post
    To the people that really like the salt series, what do you guys do that you want a completely rust proof blade for? Or is it more of a mental security thing? Wouldn't you rather have something like S110V which will still be pretty damn near impossible to rust, but also hold an edge maybe 10 times as well?
    It's relatively easy to keep any blade rust free, but not so easy to keep corrosion out of the nooks and crannies inside the scales where water never evaporate, especially if you immerse the knife in sea water...

    See this long term review of the ZDP Stretch. Notice the rust on the liners / pins etc, even though they are stainless steel and **should** not rust. (post 24, 81)

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...l=1#post535152

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...l=1#post589222
    Last edited by Brock O Lee; 04-17-2014 at 02:34 AM.
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  10. #30
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Strong-Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zenith View Post
    Reasons for H-1 above S110V (IMO).

    - Easier to sharpen
    - Less chance of chipping
    - SE model will outperform S110V in edge holding
    - Care free

    Here was some testing done on H-1 rust resistance. I wish the pictures where still available.

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...hlight=Chamber

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...hlight=Chamber
    SE model will out perform S110V in edge holding? What? Do you mean a SE H1 blade will hold an edge longer than a SE S110V blade? Or do you mean a SE H1 blade will outperform a PE S110V blade?
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  11. #31
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Donut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfingringo View Post
    Regarding the manix platform...imagine that handle with a serrated hawkbill in it.
    I'm imagining.

    What do you think of Reverse S blades? I think they would fit in existing handles much easier without making the closed profile that much larger.
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  12. #32
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donut View Post
    I'm imagining.

    What do you think of Reverse S blades? I think they would fit in existing handles much easier without making the closed profile that much larger.
    Like the lovechild of a Manix 2 and Dodo? I could get down with that!
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  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donut View Post
    I'm imagining.

    What do you think of Reverse S blades? I think they would fit in existing handles much easier without making the closed profile that much larger.
    LOVE the idea of a reverse s fishing/boat/salt knife!! Actually, I would probably buy a lil matriarch over the tasman if it was available in h1. All I really use on my tasman is the tip and I would rather have the belly of a reverse S to make the knife more useful than the full curve of the tasman which is mostly wasted blade (for MY uses). The reason I say the Lil Matriarch is it seems to have a slightly less extreme tip than the matriarch 2 and would be a bit more robust. I believe a reverse s (with a bit stronger tip than the matriarch/civilian) would be a great addition to the salt line! I would take it in any knife, but sure, I can certainly imagine it working quite well in the manix platform.

  14. #34
    Spyderco Forum Registered User RadioactiveSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    Like the lovechild of a Manix 2 and Dodo? I could get down with that!
    There's a thread over on BF on this very concept:

    http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-Sprint-Mando-!
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  15. #35
    Spyderco Forum Registered User dgebler's Avatar
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    I was just perusing the 2014 catalog and it hit me...the tusk (while not technically called a Salt series knife) is specifically designed for maritime use and has the ceramic ball bearing lock! I am not sure if a different steel was used for the spring and other hardware, but this knife is clearly constructed for salt water use and has screw construction and a spring loaded ceramic ball bearing lock. I would be interested to find out if this spring and hardware are standard materials, or if Spyderco upgraded to a more corrosive resistant material for these components. Could be promising (as far as manufacturing capabilities if not for the desire to make this a "Salt series" model.

  16. #36
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Zenith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strong-Dog View Post
    SE model will out perform S110V in edge holding? What? Do you mean a SE H1 blade will hold an edge longer than a SE S110V blade? Or do you mean a SE H1 blade will outperform a PE S110V blade?
    I believe the latter.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sal Glesser View Post
    ....
    Thanx for the kind words and support. When we did our testing, the PE model CATRA tested (edge retention) about the same as AUS8, but the serrated version's testing results were much higher. Normally, serrated edges will run about twice the plain edge of same steel and geometry, but the H1 was running about 4 times, up there with powdered metals. A puzzlement.
    ....

    sal
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  17. #37
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 1965ford's Avatar
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    My salt use case is for sweat. I carry a knife in my waistband a good bit, and when working outside in the summer heat here in the southeast it will get drenched in sweat. With a salt series knife I don't have to bother with cleaning it up when I am done with my outside work. Also carry when working out in the gym, same sweat issue.
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  18. #38
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    I thought I had all the salt knives I needed, until I saw this thread. My use is to bring with my while Kayaking in saltwater off the coasts of NH and ME. It is more of an emergency knife in case I ever get tangled in any rope or fishing line.

  19. #39
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Jeremy_A_Neel's Avatar
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    Wouldn't it have to be automatic to be moved to manufacture in the US, with H1 steel?
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